Camber/caster bushing replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 25
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Camber/caster bushing replacement
On my 1984 F150 4x2, I ordered Moog bushings for camber/caster. I got the 2.5* adjustment bushings since my camber is out a LOT just at a glance.
It’s a POSITIVE camber but when I back up for 2’ or more, the wheels pivot and suddenly I have equal NEGATIVE camber.
Anyways. Today I went to install them to no avail as I only got to the passenger side with 0 success.
The old bushing was removed with with relative ease but the new bushing would not sink all the way into the hole. I pounded on ball joint areas but I was just beating the $h___ out of the new bushing with zero movement. This continued until I removed the wheel/spindle(?) assy where after that I was able to put it on my work bench and use the BFH to full affect.
Upon reinstalling the wheel assembly, I couldn’t get both ball joint’s cone bolts to settle in. I tried all sorts of methods. I managed to get the lower ball joint nut up about 1/8”.... upon looking up I realized it was my new bushing was causing the resistance. The new bushing was being pushed back out the more I was able to get the bottom nut tightened.
Anyway. So, bushing isn’t even all the way in, so obviously no adjustments have been made. That but as well as the bottom bal joint nut stent even tightened all the way.
I don’t want to take it to a shop.
any help please? What am I doing wrong?
THANK YOU!
It’s a POSITIVE camber but when I back up for 2’ or more, the wheels pivot and suddenly I have equal NEGATIVE camber.
Anyways. Today I went to install them to no avail as I only got to the passenger side with 0 success.
The old bushing was removed with with relative ease but the new bushing would not sink all the way into the hole. I pounded on ball joint areas but I was just beating the $h___ out of the new bushing with zero movement. This continued until I removed the wheel/spindle(?) assy where after that I was able to put it on my work bench and use the BFH to full affect.
Upon reinstalling the wheel assembly, I couldn’t get both ball joint’s cone bolts to settle in. I tried all sorts of methods. I managed to get the lower ball joint nut up about 1/8”.... upon looking up I realized it was my new bushing was causing the resistance. The new bushing was being pushed back out the more I was able to get the bottom nut tightened.
Anyway. So, bushing isn’t even all the way in, so obviously no adjustments have been made. That but as well as the bottom bal joint nut stent even tightened all the way.
I don’t want to take it to a shop.
any help please? What am I doing wrong?
THANK YOU!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 129
From: Atlantic Canada
I just went through all this on my 1984 F150 4x2 a few months ago. I replaced everything in the front end, and used all Moog parts as well.
I'm guessing this that there is a ridge of rust built up on the ball joint, and in the hole in the knuckle (length ways, matching the slot in the alignment bushings). I noticed this on my own truck as well, but since I was doing it all on the bench, and installing new ball joints, it wasn't a problem. If I recall correctly, I used a Dremel to remove the ridge in the hole in the knuckle. If you're trying to install new bushings, and the slot is in a different location, the new bushing will be fighting against a ridge of rust on both the ball joint, and in the hole. Once I had that little ridge smoothed out, the bushings slid in the holes with ease.
I'm just guessing. I could be way off base. Like anything, it's hard to know without seeing it. Maybe there's an issue with the new bushings.
Regarding the camber issues. Mine looked like it was bad on the passenger side, and I was sure I was going to need alignment bushings. After I replaced all of the wear items in the front end, I re-installed my factory 0-degree bushings, and all that was required for alignment was a slight toe adjustment. Camber was well within spec.
Just my 2 cents worth.
I'm guessing this that there is a ridge of rust built up on the ball joint, and in the hole in the knuckle (length ways, matching the slot in the alignment bushings). I noticed this on my own truck as well, but since I was doing it all on the bench, and installing new ball joints, it wasn't a problem. If I recall correctly, I used a Dremel to remove the ridge in the hole in the knuckle. If you're trying to install new bushings, and the slot is in a different location, the new bushing will be fighting against a ridge of rust on both the ball joint, and in the hole. Once I had that little ridge smoothed out, the bushings slid in the holes with ease.
I'm just guessing. I could be way off base. Like anything, it's hard to know without seeing it. Maybe there's an issue with the new bushings.
Regarding the camber issues. Mine looked like it was bad on the passenger side, and I was sure I was going to need alignment bushings. After I replaced all of the wear items in the front end, I re-installed my factory 0-degree bushings, and all that was required for alignment was a slight toe adjustment. Camber was well within spec.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
Likes: 2,756
From: Virginia
There are certain things that need to be done to vehicles that require special tools to accomplish, this is one of them. You will need to take it to a alignment shop to get the alignment in spec for it to drive correctly and have good tire wear. While you can buy the bushings and install them yourself, you have no way of knowing if you bought the right one and you have no way to set it correctly. Besides the camber, the bushing also adjusts the caster.
While you won't find a bigger cheapskate than me, and I always try to do everything myself, this is one area where you really can't do it without a shop with the equipment.
While you won't find a bigger cheapskate than me, and I always try to do everything myself, this is one area where you really can't do it without a shop with the equipment.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,978
Likes: 4,132
From: Angier, NC
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
I just went through all this on my 1984 F150 4x2 a few months ago. I replaced everything in the front end, and used all Moog parts as well.
I'm guessing this that there is a ridge of rust built up on the ball joint, and in the hole in the knuckle (length ways, matching the slot in the alignment bushings). I noticed this on my own truck as well, but since I was doing it all on the bench, and installing new ball joints, it wasn't a problem. If I recall correctly, I used a Dremel to remove the ridge in the hole in the knuckle. If you're trying to install new bushings, and the slot is in a different location, the new bushing will be fighting against a ridge of rust on both the ball joint, and in the hole. Once I had that little ridge smoothed out, the bushings slid in the holes with ease.
I'm just guessing. I could be way off base. Like anything, it's hard to know without seeing it. Maybe there's an issue with the new bushings.
Regarding the camber issues. Mine looked like it was bad on the passenger side, and I was sure I was going to need alignment bushings. After I replaced all of the wear items in the front end, I re-installed my factory 0-degree bushings, and all that was required for alignment was a slight toe adjustment. Camber was well within spec.
Just my 2 cents worth.
I'm guessing this that there is a ridge of rust built up on the ball joint, and in the hole in the knuckle (length ways, matching the slot in the alignment bushings). I noticed this on my own truck as well, but since I was doing it all on the bench, and installing new ball joints, it wasn't a problem. If I recall correctly, I used a Dremel to remove the ridge in the hole in the knuckle. If you're trying to install new bushings, and the slot is in a different location, the new bushing will be fighting against a ridge of rust on both the ball joint, and in the hole. Once I had that little ridge smoothed out, the bushings slid in the holes with ease.
I'm just guessing. I could be way off base. Like anything, it's hard to know without seeing it. Maybe there's an issue with the new bushings.
Regarding the camber issues. Mine looked like it was bad on the passenger side, and I was sure I was going to need alignment bushings. After I replaced all of the wear items in the front end, I re-installed my factory 0-degree bushings, and all that was required for alignment was a slight toe adjustment. Camber was well within spec.
Just my 2 cents worth.
i have a lot coming up with work so I am going to take it to a garage and have them replace upper/lower ball joints, radius arm bushings and I beam axle bushings....
im going to change out both tie rods and pitman arm myself but not now.
I wanted to replace the bushings for camber and caster but also because both of them are damaged. Looks like someone tried to turn them and the “bolt head” of the bushing collapsed...
and yeah, I’ve done the tape measure alignment before and it was better than nothing but my alignment was still out and my tires still got chewed up!
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 25
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From: Fayetteville, NC
i definitely do. I think the entire front end needs to be gone through. I was going to put a 2” lift (spacers) on it but not until I know everything with my front end and steering is 110%
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
Likes: 2,756
From: Virginia
2 inch spacers will cause more problems. You cannot lift these trucks without messing up the alignment, and the guy at the shop can't get it back in, even with the most radical bushing. Usually they can barely get it back in alignment with a 1.5 inch lift above stock. Beyond that, you need a lift kit with the brackets.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 25
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From: Fayetteville, NC
2 inch spacers will cause more problems. You cannot lift these trucks without messing up the alignment, and the guy at the shop can't get it back in, even with the most radical bushing. Usually they can barely get it back in alignment with a 1.5 inch lift above stock. Beyond that, you need a lift kit with the brackets.
Different ballgame but I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee that I put a 2.5” kit on it (spacers) and my alignment is actually perfect
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