1976 f250 custom issues
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Junior User
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1976 f250 custom issues
Hey guys I just bought a 1976 f250 custom, it has the 360, 4 speed 2wd. I talked to the guy who owned an auto shop and I told him I needed something I could drive everyday because I'm giving my wife my new truck so she can get out of her junk car and I'm fine with just an old work truck. He said he replaced the gas tank, sending unit, distributor and battery and that he drove it back and forth to his house 8 miles away a few times and it ran fine. He said all it should need is some brake work and shocks. It was my fault because I trusted him and didn't drive it first. But I left and started driving it and made it 5 miles down the road before it died and I got out to find gas all over the ground. Well he said he would fix that but he wouldn't take the truck back even though he implied it was better than it was, but anyways the other issue was it was hard as crap to get into gear, I couldn't get it into 3rd hardly and I never could get it into 4th, it grinder no matter what. Can anyone tell me where I should start with about the transmission?
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
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What transmission is it? T18, T19, or NP435?
First thing I'd do would be drain the transmission and measure how much comes out. Hopefully it's really low and that's the problem. Then of course you gotta fix the leak. Put in fresh gear oil and try it again. If that don't work, it's probably got worn out parts: Synchro's, shift forks, or could be clutch worn out, clutch fork rod out of adjustment, or throw-out bearing worn out.
At least it's a manual. If you have to pull it, they're smaller than auto's, and you can actually work on them. And rebuilt replacements are much more affordable than auto's.
First thing I'd do would be drain the transmission and measure how much comes out. Hopefully it's really low and that's the problem. Then of course you gotta fix the leak. Put in fresh gear oil and try it again. If that don't work, it's probably got worn out parts: Synchro's, shift forks, or could be clutch worn out, clutch fork rod out of adjustment, or throw-out bearing worn out.
At least it's a manual. If you have to pull it, they're smaller than auto's, and you can actually work on them. And rebuilt replacements are much more affordable than auto's.
Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Have you even tried a simple clutch adjustment? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696839
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I'm not sure which one, he is suppose to be fixing the gas leak so I don't have itcto look at right now. I am completely new to fords, I've been in chevys and new dodges but never a Ford of any kind. And I've only had one manual and it was a 2012 ram 2500 and all I had to do with it was replace the slave cylinder. So I don't know if this will be similar or completely different to that, if it has a hydraulic clutch or linkage, and I didn't even have to adjust the clutch when I replaced the slice cylinder so I was wondering how you go about it on this truck whichever it has. So no I haven't done a "simple clutch adjustment" I thought about that may be what it is, or a slave cylinder, so that's why I'm getting some info so I'll be ready when I go to get it again. Thanks for the info so far.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
X2 all manual, its just pressure plates fingers spring tension and your leg power. Click on this link to see a diagram of how to adjust your clutch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696839
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696839
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Junior User
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Okay thanks guys, I feel like that's probably the issue because it wasnt hard to press it in at all, I don't remember there being much pressure on it. And I didn't think much of it at the time because I was use to the big dual disc clutch I use to have so any thing else I've drove hasn't been that hard but they still had hydraulics. Once I get it back I'll hopefully get it adjusted and won't have near the issues I thought I had with it.
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