Head and block surface cleaning
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,949
Likes: 510
From: Foothills, CA
You should consider adding batteries, and it looks like even coolant would be in order... I'd follow some of the procedures given here on getting a good first start without stressing things (having oil in circulation, fuel same, etc...) We don't ever want a dry start.... But 6.0s are "designed" not to, so you just fry the FICM and maybe a few injectors and maybe the starter, while you first try getting it to start after a teardown....
I think a video of it firing up would be cool....
Good Luck!
Scott
I think a video of it firing up would be cool....
Good Luck!
Scott
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 765
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, NY
Appreciate all the concerns and help. I left the batteries out beacuse I still need to top off the coolant and oil. I do not want to forget and try to fire her up. I plan on sourcing the fluids locally today and then getting her breathing again on Saturday. That is provided Dad and Husband life do not get in the way as they usually do. I am going to use the starter cable to the battery trick that DieselTechRon showed on his youtube channel to get the fluids where they need to be without frying the FICM and injectors. RIP
I am a bit nervous about it. I am sure she will run but I just hope she runs good and no headgasket issues.
I am a bit nervous about it. I am sure she will run but I just hope she runs good and no headgasket issues.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 765
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, NY
Been running the truck today doing errands. It feels like a different truck now that the unison ring is moving again. A huge difference.
I found a coolant leak from the upper radiator hose at the t-stat housing. I have re-positioned the clamp once and it slowed down but is still there. I may just go out and get a regular hose clamp for it.
I found a coolant leak from the upper radiator hose at the t-stat housing. I have re-positioned the clamp once and it slowed down but is still there. I may just go out and get a regular hose clamp for it.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 765
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, NY
Thanks to all who gave me advice, reassurance and also a big thanks to those that have posted and made videos in the past in regards to doing cab in head studs.I could not have done it without any of you.
Everything seems to be working well. I passed the 50 mile mark and my bearings are still good. LOL
Everything seems to be working well. I passed the 50 mile mark and my bearings are still good. LOL
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2026
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I have searched and most of the threads are years old. Not sure if anything has changed with time.
Some say to get a honing block and use brake clean with sandpaper up to 1500 grit to prep the block. Some use the 3m discs. Some say do not use 3m discs no matter what. Some sand with their fingers only. Most however say to use the Ford metal prep and a plastic scraper. Some say a brass scraper. Some say just clean it of all gasket material and no more.
The Ford cleaner is almost 200 bucks for a can. Will another manufacturers gasket cleaner along with some plastic scrapers be good enough?
The some say to send the heads out to get magnafluxed and decked. Some say it is not worth it. DieselTech Ron indicated in his head video that he has never had a head warped out of Ford spec of .004 cross wise and that they all show surface cracks.
My current plan is to get the heads and block cleaned with some gasket cleaner, maybe some brake clean if needed and plastic scrapers. Then put them back on with new Ford gaskets. Not sending them out for anything as long as the visual inspection looks good.
While the heads are off I am going to address a broken manifold bolt and replace them all.
Any comments or suggestions on "The Plan"?
Some say to get a honing block and use brake clean with sandpaper up to 1500 grit to prep the block. Some use the 3m discs. Some say do not use 3m discs no matter what. Some sand with their fingers only. Most however say to use the Ford metal prep and a plastic scraper. Some say a brass scraper. Some say just clean it of all gasket material and no more.
The Ford cleaner is almost 200 bucks for a can. Will another manufacturers gasket cleaner along with some plastic scrapers be good enough?
The some say to send the heads out to get magnafluxed and decked. Some say it is not worth it. DieselTech Ron indicated in his head video that he has never had a head warped out of Ford spec of .004 cross wise and that they all show surface cracks.
My current plan is to get the heads and block cleaned with some gasket cleaner, maybe some brake clean if needed and plastic scrapers. Then put them back on with new Ford gaskets. Not sending them out for anything as long as the visual inspection looks good.
While the heads are off I am going to address a broken manifold bolt and replace them all.
Any comments or suggestions on "The Plan"?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
brokeasajoke
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
6
Nov 3, 2014 10:11 PM
Etone
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
1
May 17, 2014 08:48 PM
Dislexiq
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
10
Sep 24, 2010 10:16 PM
Chris Iverson
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
3
May 27, 2004 11:14 PM
