86 XLT Electric Window Issues

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Mar 6, 2019 | 12:05 PM

#16

Odisvan

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your choices are: drill out rivets and remove regulator/elec window motor and then separate elec window motor from regulator for repair (or replacement), or drill 3 small holes to reach nuts of elec window motor and remove it from door and repair it on a bench. Or replace it for about $35. I've done it the other way on my Marquis, if you want to make things harder, by all means, drill out rivets and remove regulator and so forth.
whole lot more trouble, to me, fighting regulator out small door hole with elec motor attached, than 10 minutes to make holes in door sheetmetal to unbolt 3 10mm nuts and leave regulator in place. But to each their own. It is a good opportunity to clean up everything and grease everything.
you can get a cheap dent puller suction cup at harbor freight for about a buck to keep your window up. Or tape it up while you work. or wedge something between glass and door.

Mar 6, 2019 | 12:08 PM

#17

Odisvan

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you'll enjoy your repair better if you'll remove door speaker if it's up in corner, that's great spot to pull elec motor out of door.

Mar 6, 2019 | 02:01 PM

#18

GLR

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Joined: Sep 2003

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From: NY and VA

I use a 1/2" spot weld cutter to cut the hole to access the motor bolts. Also a good idea NOT to use any metal to replace the plastic wedges in the motor

Mar 6, 2019 | 02:07 PM

#19

Odisvan

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why not GLR? what exactly happens?

Mar 6, 2019 | 02:14 PM

#20

phil64

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Joined: Apr 2018

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From: Pau, SW France

Remember that i live in France so itsn't very easy to buy or order ... So i must make no mistake when ordering. Seems that i'll order a motor, the whole assy. is 3 times more expensive (and shipping + duties also higher !). Good idea to remove the speaker !
The holes for motor bolts access are already done, see pic. I don't know if they are original or if someone has drilled them ... Looks not very "circular" ...

Mar 6, 2019 | 02:16 PM

#21

GLR

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From: NY and VA

Basically, the idea is that the gear will slip if something gets caught between the glass and frame - safety thing. Also anything steel might cause the regulator drive gear (motor driven gear) to strip. We've replaced many on our trucks and Crown Vics. Even taught my 15 year old grandson to do it.

Mar 6, 2019 | 02:23 PM

#22

GLR

FTE Legend

Joined: Sep 2003

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From: NY and VA

Phil, looks like someone just used a punch to make the access holes. Usually the motors don't go bad. Before the "wedges/rollers" were stocked in parts stores I got some round teflon/plastic and made my own. I think (CRS) it was a bit smaller than 1/2" (13 mm?)

Mar 6, 2019 | 02:42 PM

#23

GLR

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Joined: Sep 2003

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From: NY and VA

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tor+gear,10733

Doesn't show the round rollers easily. They are the 3 darker ones underneath the black gear.
these are called "torque pin" I always get my terminology screwed up https://www.ebay.com/i/151458021740?chn=ps

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Mar 6, 2019 | 03:45 PM

#24

phil64

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Joined: Apr 2018

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From: Pau, SW France

I don't know if i buy a motor (at 20 to 25$) or a kit (at 10$) ... Ot the two ! In every case the shipping remains the same. (around 15$)

Mar 6, 2019 | 03:58 PM

#25

GLR

FTE Legend

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From: NY and VA

At $20-25 with same shipping might as well get the motor. Don't forget left and right take different motors.

Mar 6, 2019 | 07:31 PM

#26

brake4beaver

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Joined: Nov 2013

Posts: 58

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From: Cle elum, Wa

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctubutis

I think you should just purchase the entire assembly brand new, use nuts & bolts to replace the rivets. Trying to repair the assembly when it's in its installed location can be a PITA.

That's a good idea, replacing the motor and regulator as one unit, that way you don't have to pull it back apart when the other part breaks. I find it easier to remove the vent window and frame, it's only two torx screws on the front and one bolt under the door panel. making it much easier to get the door glass out. Here's what the motor and regulator look like.