Ok Guys My driver window (electric) act like the gear is stripped on the motor.I can hear the motor running but the window will not say up.you can put it up and down without touchin the window switch.Also how do you pull the motor out of the door?I didn't see any bolts just rivits.

 

Time to take off the door panel and see what broke loose...
The rivets you drill out.
Check the gear on the motor, If I remember right, its the likely culprit.

 

I had a problem with my 93. When I pressed the button the window would jump sometimes and move up slowly others it would not but the motor still ran. It was the little bushings inside the gear. They are little rubber ball things but u cant just get them you have to buy the hole gear. But as for getting the motor out, if it has been out before then u will see where the hole have been drilled already if not then look around for little indentions like someone made them with a punch and hammer. Thats where u drill. The bolts for the motor will be right behind that. Its not that hard.

 

yeah mine did that, I could hear it wanting to move, and sometimes it did, but now it doesnt make any sound at all...

 

Power window motor gear roller repair kit on eBay. These little rollers crush/deform. When you remove the old ones they will probably look like a kidney bean......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Just bought Thanks Danny

 

I took the panel off, I can see all of the cables are in place, I hear the motor... BUT, when I put tension on the cables, I can't move the window Up/Down by hand....??? could it be there isn't enough tension on the cables preventing the gears in the motor from doing its job?

 

Not sure what you're describing, but when I took my window regulator out on Saturday, you couldn't move the motor. I think the gearing in the unit is such that it can't really be turned by hand.

I think you need to get it out and take it apart to figure out the problem. If you're really not sure of the problem, a whole new unit is $70. So it's not like you'll go completely broke by replacing the whole thing.

 

Quite correct on the gearing theory. It is a worm drive, and no, you won't be turning that by hand if the three cushion pins are initact. The pin kit is expensive for what you get from a dealership, and I've replaced them twice in my '92. They seem to be pretty much a dealer item, too. Haven't had much luck finding them in local parts houses.

Another get-around, is I made some from wooden dowel the last time I had the driver's door regulator out. If you can find some reasonably hard Teflon or Acrylic dowel, it would be better than the wood. I did the last patch because I disassembled the motors and found them to be quite worn out, and knew I'd be going in there again soon. That was a year ago, and the passenger side just quit again last month. Gonna have to bite the bullet and get new motors and drive gears this time.

Do a search on power windows, and there's some pretty good advice on removal of the motor without removing the regulator. It requires a minor mod (three 1/2" holes drilled), but sounds very attractive as opposed to removing the whole regulator assembly.

 

I replaced actuators on my 90f350 twice with new ones from ford and napa lasted about a year made of plastic went to juke yard found steel actuators in 86 ford f350 no more problems been 4years

 

Just one related question:

I installed an Autozone regulator. It operates fine, but in a certain part of the travel I can hear a little gear noise. (Just a gentle tap-tap-tap). I assume for now it's just new gears that haven't broken in, or the wear on the regulator gear not fitting as well to a new pinion.

Anything to be worried about? (If I'm going to get a refund for it, I'd need to do so right away)

Dave

 

My '87 F250 had the problem that nomatter what which way you tried to run the window, up or down, it went down. The gear on the end of the motor was worn out. There are 3 round (supposed to be round when they are new) "bearings" that had worn out along with the gear. I bought a kit from Advance auto parts (NAPA has the same thing for a dollar more) for $25+ and it works like new. A junk yard guy I know said he puts small nuts in place of the bearings and that fixes it but if the motor hangs up you mess up everything.

 

I took some 3\8 inch rubber fuel line and cut small pieces the same length as the plastic parts. Then with a tubing cutter i cut some 1\4 inch steel tubing the same length. I pushed the steel sleeves that i cut into the rubber hose. That is what i use for the 3 little plastic rollers that disinigrate. Works for me.

 

Amazing what kinda 'engineering' people come up with when we realize that we're only going to have the same problem putting new small sacrificial parts in that cost a lot more than they should. I firmly believe that Ford prices those plastic rollers because they know how important it is to get the window down.

Great tip, Unc.

 

Hey Unc...is it still working? Sounds kinda difficult. How did you manage to the tubing to stay in place on the motor housing?