TSP Distributor
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2006
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TSP Distributor
I am wondering if anyone has any experience with the TSP distributor in a Y-block. These seem very attractively priced, available as low as $130. Or with coil and wires for about $200. There are lots of options available on ebay. I would propose to install this in my 317, which is installed in an 8500 pound DODGE COE truck. It will never be driven much, but I want it to run right, and hopefully be reliable. I want to get rid of the Load a Matic and governor which I have now. Any input is appreciated!
Tom
Tom
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: parma
From info I've seen in the past you'll have to change the carb also. Or at least plug one of the ports. There has also been issues with the aftermarket distributors having a shorter shaft below the drive gear. That makes an issue of losing your oil pump driving and no oil pressure.
I myself replace my distributor about 5yrs ago with a unit from Autozone. $60 with no core. It is in my newly rebuilt y block. Only thing I did do to it is to eliminate the points I installed a pertronix unit.
I myself replace my distributor about 5yrs ago with a unit from Autozone. $60 with no core. It is in my newly rebuilt y block. Only thing I did do to it is to eliminate the points I installed a pertronix unit.
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Cross-Country
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I probably should have elaborated more in my first post. I plan to change the carb anyway. I will probably be asking about that in a separate post. 
I have read quite a bit about the short shaft problem. I would have been OK with just a rebuilt 57 up distributor, but it seems there is little chance at this point of getting one with the proper length shaft. I guess I could prowl the junk yards, but I have so much else to do, I would just like to buy a plug and play distributor. I am not even finding anything suitable on ebay. I will have to inquire with TSP to confirm the length of the shaft. I do have the hex drive on the distributor, so the engine must be a 1955. Another issue is that my distributor has a 15 tooth gear. I guess I can change that out if necessary.
I really like the FBO distributor, but it is $550 and is definitely overkill for my needs.
Thanks!
Tom
I have read quite a bit about the short shaft problem. I would have been OK with just a rebuilt 57 up distributor, but it seems there is little chance at this point of getting one with the proper length shaft. I guess I could prowl the junk yards, but I have so much else to do, I would just like to buy a plug and play distributor. I am not even finding anything suitable on ebay. I will have to inquire with TSP to confirm the length of the shaft. I do have the hex drive on the distributor, so the engine must be a 1955. Another issue is that my distributor has a 15 tooth gear. I guess I can change that out if necessary.I really like the FBO distributor, but it is $550 and is definitely overkill for my needs.
Thanks!
Tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
They are tempting aren't they. Wouldn't necessarily have to swap out the carburetor if you don't want, just plumb the vacuum advance to a source of constant manifold vacuum on the intake. It will run just fine that way too.
Y Block distributor shaft spec is 0.022"- 0.032" endplay and the measurement from the machined bottom surface of the distributor gear to the mounting flange with shaft pulled down is 4.991" - 4.996"
Y Block distributor shaft spec is 0.022"- 0.032" endplay and the measurement from the machined bottom surface of the distributor gear to the mounting flange with shaft pulled down is 4.991" - 4.996"
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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If https://www.topstreetperformance.com...lock-2310.html is what you are talking about, it looks like the same rebranded, Chinese MSD copy that is available all over the place. It is also for the Ford Y-Block, not the Lincoln.so it will not be "plug and play" because you will have to swap out the gear. However, that does give you a chance to correct one aspect of the distributor, if it is manufactured out of spec.
Outside of possible super expensive vintage speed parts, I don't think there is anything available aftermarket that you can just drop in and go for a Lincoln. Check eBay for used or NOS distributors. You can even find a good, much more common Ford Y distributor and just swap the gear.
Outside of possible super expensive vintage speed parts, I don't think there is anything available aftermarket that you can just drop in and go for a Lincoln. Check eBay for used or NOS distributors. You can even find a good, much more common Ford Y distributor and just swap the gear.
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Cross-Country
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I decided that I didn't feel good about putting Chinese electronics into my 1955 truck! So, I bought a used 1960 292 distributor. Supposedly the vacuum advance is good, and the bushings are OK. I will install my 15 tooth gear, and clean it up. Of course, new points, condensor, cap, and rotor. It has been a few years since I installed a set of points. Thanks for the input!
Tom
Thanks for the input!Tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Unfortunately if there's any appreciable shaft & bushing wear it will not run nearly as well as it should. A pertronix module is a lot more tolerant, though if the wear is excessive it will still screw with the dwell/timing. But, points won't stand for any of it. A quick test is turn the distributor so the points are open on a cam lobe. Wiggle the shaft and check for any point gap change. An ignition scope shows this defect very quickly.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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It probably is time for a rebuild of a 1960 distributor. Don't take the sellers word for it's condition in your motor. Now is the time to fix any issue. A shop manual goes over a lot of the specifications.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Rebuilding is a pain in the azz. "Remanufactured" distributors as a rule, usually aren't. I've been building up a spare and found if the bushing is bad, so is the shaft. No way around it. The radial play with a used shaft with a new bushing actually seems to be worse than before, probably after all the crud is cleaned off I dunno. Need to find a drill press before I can complete the task. NOS shafts & bush are readily found but the shaft needs collar end play and drive gear located accurately, they are not pre-drilled. The '60 distributor probably uses those kidney shaped centrifugal weights, check for slop in the pins on these, they get grooved and will also cause erratic advance. Not trying to be a debbie downer here, but have been down this road recently.
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Cross-Country
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Thanks for the tips guys. I never thought about the Petronix being more tolerant for play in the bushings, but now that you mention it, it makes sense. I have plenty of time before this engine will run again, so I will check out the distributor as best I can. If necessary, I will find someone to rebuild it. If the play isn't TOO bad, I will consider the Petronix instead of staying with points. I remember hearing about the wear issue on the weights and pins, but had forgotten about that. So much for "plug and play", huh? I do suspect almost anything will be better than my current 55 Load a Matic and governor.
Thanks again!
Tom
Thanks again!
Tom
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Cross-Country
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I got the 1960 distributor and it looks good. From some painted markings, I think it was rebuilt in 1984. Only 34 years ago! The bushings feel very snug. The vacuum advance works and holds vacuum. I haven't checked the weights and pins yet. The length matches up nicely with my old distributor. I just need to swap my 15 tooth gear on. I think this will work. Thanks for the advice!
Tom
The bushings feel very snug. The vacuum advance works and holds vacuum. I haven't checked the weights and pins yet. The length matches up nicely with my old distributor. I just need to swap my 15 tooth gear on. I think this will work. Thanks for the advice!Tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Good deal. Just be sure the dimensions are correct.
just need to swap my 15 tooth gear on. I think this will work.
Measuring from the housing flange to the machined surface of the distributor gear is spec'd 4.991" to 4.996" with distributor shaft pulled down. The distributor gear itself rides on and uses a pad inside the block as the thrust surface. It is likely a new hole will need drilled in the shaft to properly locate the new gear to achieve this dimension. For some reason the distributor gears vary a bit in their dimension as well as variance in the location of the pre-drilled pilot hole.
just need to swap my 15 tooth gear on. I think this will work.
Measuring from the housing flange to the machined surface of the distributor gear is spec'd 4.991" to 4.996" with distributor shaft pulled down. The distributor gear itself rides on and uses a pad inside the block as the thrust surface. It is likely a new hole will need drilled in the shaft to properly locate the new gear to achieve this dimension. For some reason the distributor gears vary a bit in their dimension as well as variance in the location of the pre-drilled pilot hole.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2006
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Good deal. Just be sure the dimensions are correct.
Measuring from the housing flange to the machined surface of the distributor gear is spec'd 4.991" to 4.996" with distributor shaft pulled down. The distributor gear itself rides on and uses a pad inside the block as the thrust surface. It is likely a new hole will need drilled in the shaft to properly locate the new gear to achieve this dimension. For some reason the distributor gears vary a bit in their dimension as well as variance in the location of the pre-drilled pilot hole.
Measuring from the housing flange to the machined surface of the distributor gear is spec'd 4.991" to 4.996" with distributor shaft pulled down. The distributor gear itself rides on and uses a pad inside the block as the thrust surface. It is likely a new hole will need drilled in the shaft to properly locate the new gear to achieve this dimension. For some reason the distributor gears vary a bit in their dimension as well as variance in the location of the pre-drilled pilot hole.
I will probably have to take it to a machine shop. If the existing hole is off just a bit, would they drill a new hole at 90 degrees to the original? Would that weaken the shaft too much?Thanks for the advice!
Tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yes, that's OK, new hole at 90°. I messed around experimenting/practice with a used distributor shaft. A sharp bit and a drill press is necessary. I had neither, so the experiment didn't last too long. The endplay, between the collar piece and and housing is .022" - .032", (you have that already) the shaft is then extended down when locating the gear. I wish you better luck than I had finding a shop that is willing to tackle it. Not a big deal, but if they aren't familiar with it they don't want to mess with it. Digital calipers aren't very expensive these days. If you can find someone with a drill press or better you're all set.
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