Ok I installed my intake (took the distrib. off to put it on, and I went to put the distributor back on and it goes on fine except doesent go down all the way, I looked down the hole and seen that the oil pump shaft that slips inside of the distributor shaft is leaning on the side and when I put the distrib. shaft down there it just sits on top of the oil pump shaft? How can I get the shaft to insert into the distributor shaft? I bought some grease and I was thinking of takeing a glob of grease and packing it arround the oil pump shaft so it doesent fall against the side when I put the distributor on? Anyone have anything else I can do if this doesent work? Also where is a good place/ company that makes good rebuild kits for electronic ignition distributor?

Thanks in advance.

 

Buy a rebuilt distributor.

The grease will work or an O-ring around the shaft.

The shaft has a beveled end which should help the distributor line up. You may need to reach down with a deep thinwall socket taped to an extension and rotate the shaft slightly.

 

After the distributor is in as far as you can get it turn the engine over with a flex handle (breaker bar) and socket while some presses down lightly and sort of wiggles on the distributor. The distributor cannot get out of time as it has already meshed with the cam gear. It will only be out of time if the distributor was initially set out of time. This may take it try or two until the oil pump shaft lines up with the hole in the distributor shaft. I have done this plenty and it worked great for me. You have to be familiar with the way the distributor shaft turns as it drops in place before you will get the timing right the first time.

 

You gotta be carefull when doin this method.. I have tried doin it both ways, and turnin the motor over is the lazy mans way of getting it to go in. (it works for me and I am lazy) If for some reason you screw this up, you have to go through some greif to re set the timing. I assume you marked where the rotor sits in relationship to the dizzy housing right? Set it at the mark, and back it off about 3/8" so when it does go in, it will align perfect. If you get it to go in, and the vacuum advance modulator sits to cloose to anything, you will have to mark, pull it out, and put it in one tooth off to get it adjustable again.

FYI Next time you pull the dizzy out, what I like to do to make life simple is to turn the motor over to the #1 cyl, and align the marks on the dampner to TDC before you pull the dizzy. This way when you put the dizzy back in, if you forgot to mark it or the mark somehow magically vanishes, its all good, the motor is already at (or close) to TDC. You mark the housing where the #1 cyl is on the cap, you set the rotor about 3/8-1/2" back counter clockwise, drop it in, align the makrs, wallah, it doesnt get any easier.... (this all assumes that your dampner is accurate) IMHO I think the socket method is safer, as long as you tape the socket to the extension!!!

 

Masterbeavis, the problem is not related to where the distributor is going in (out of time) It is the oil pump shaft not pointing stright up (leaning to the side of the hole in the block) as to align with the hole in the distributor shaft. The method of timing the engine and distributor isn't going to solve his problem. Had this shaft leaning problem happen and I solved the problem with the method I described and have used it more times than I can remember. In other words I am successful in solving a problem all while the distributor stayed in time. Can you really argue with success?

The engine turning method is a smart way to fix it an not a "lazy mans way". The distributor cannot get out of time while doing this since the cam gear and distributor gears have meshed. I'll repeat myself and state that you have to be familiar with the way the distributor shaft turns as the distributor is dropped in to get the timing right the first time. None of this is going to be easy for an inexperienced individual.

 

I do not recall saying that the turn the motor over method will not work, NOR that you have no ideaI can't speak civillyyou are talking about. I have also stated that I have tried it myself AND IT WORKED FOR ME

(I speak of aftermarket shafts here, so if a stock shaft is different, then my badd, wouldnt be the first time I was wrong.)

The oil pump shaft has a cone shaped end for this exact reason, so that it leaning to the side will not affect its ability to go in. If it didnt have this feature, you could rotate the motor till you were blue in the face, or turn the shaft with a socket wrench for that matter. When the dizzy gets put it in, it will self align itself, all that needs to happen is for something to turn. so it will all line up. Im simply stating my OPINION that it is better to just simply turn the shaft with a socket to get it to go in, there is less to go wrong, especially for somebody who is "inexperienced" with this type of thing.

Also, what is wrong with sharing a lil advice, even if it doesnt have to do with the "exact" problem at hand, if it might save him some grief the next time he does it? I sure wish somebody had told me about doin that instead of me having to figure it out myself.

 

Masterbeavis. I wasn't attacking you or your opinion. It just seemed a little unclear to me in certain points you made and I commented on them. Just think.... if it was unclear to someone like me that works on this stuff alot then what are the chances it was unclear to others. Are you always so quick to make hasty judgements about others who may make a similar comments? I think it is a shame you can't allow someone to comment on your input without attacking them. Hey I am not perfect I misunderstand things others post, but it is easy to sort out with common sense and reasonable responses. I don't think anyone in this forum should feel as free to make a comment as you did just because of a tiny difference of opinion/misunderstanding. I won't quote it since it isn't appropriate nor welcome here in my opinion.

Allow me to apologize. You and I have a misunderstanding and I feel it is simple to rectify with reason and common courtesy.

 

Ok well I am going to try turning the shaft with a nut driver (perfect for geting down there) and puting in the distrib. I would call that way the safest way to go. Also, how hard is it to retime the engine? Also, the PO took out the distributor once and said he might have set it one gear off but just turned it to make up for the difference? I have never taken a timing light to it, but when it useto run (befor I started takeing stuff off and upgradeing parts(its stil not all together) it missfired and didnt run relyably. It was like I wasnt geting spark all of the time. So what I am doing is replaceing the Intake, Carb. Buying a rebuilt distributor and new Ford Blaster II coil and (leting the shop install it). After I do this is there anything else I should do ? I am geting a full lube for everything (since the truck sat for years and prob. needs some grease.)

 

Masterbeavis. I wasn't attacking you or your opinion. It just seemed a little unclear to me in certain points you made and I commented on them. Just think.... if it was unclear to someone like me that works on this stuff alot then what are the chances it was unclear to others.

I am sorry about the misunderstanding. I thought I was clear about what I was sayin, but reading it now, I can see where the confusion comes from (not enough detail)

Are you always so quick to make hasty judgements about others who may make a similar comments? I think it is a shame you can't allow someone to comment on your input without attacking them. Hey I am not perfect I misunderstand things others post, but it is easy to sort out with common sense and reasonable responses.

Normally, no I do not. that day I was in a grumpy mood, I am not sure why. The only thing I can think of was maybe I felt you had a "holier than thou/Ive forgotten more about trucks than you will ever know attitude."

I don't think anyone in this forum should feel as free to make a comment as you did just because of a tiny difference of opinion/misunderstanding. I won't quote it since it isn't appropriate nor welcome here in my opinion.

After reading your reply to my message, it made me realize that I looked like a childish [expletive deleted]


Allow me to apologize. You and I have a misunderstanding and I feel it is simple to rectify with reason and common courtesy. [/B][/QUOTE]

Sir, may I say that you are a better man than I for apologizing for something that is not your fault. The blame here lies with me, for that I apologize to all offended. Apolgizing does not make things right. We all are all here to share the wealth of combined knowledge and love for our trucks, not go attacking each other when there is a difference of opinion about something as petty as differing ways of doing something. This website in the past has been a great wealth of knowledge for me, and to many others I assume as well. Fighting does not belong here, I will have to remember to keep it at places where it is apropriate

Regards,

 

I always forget to this, but its very important. make sure the truck is in park, the wheels choked, and the ebrake set!! Many disasters have happened because people have not done this!!!

anyhoo, back to whats important.

Retiming the engine is not that diffuclt if you line the dampner/#1 cyl up to TDC (top dead center, it means the piston is not going to go any higher than what it already is) Make sure you have that cylinder on the compression stroke. Pull the spark plug out, put your thumb over the hole, have a buddy bump the motor over (or better/safer yet, rotate it over via. the crank) When you feel air being pushed out violently, turn the motor till you reach TDC, or 0 on the dampner.(or the big mark if there isnt any numbers) Put a mark on the distributor where the #1 is marked on your cap, line up the rotor with that mark, and put in the dizzy. Leave teh vacuum hose disconected and plugged till you are done 100%When you get everything back together, and if it wont start, loosen the clamp a litte bit and crank the motor over while slowly rotating the dizzy back and forth till it starts. Once it does start, then set the timimg. If it doesnt start at all, make sure you have fuel, and spark. The easiest way to check for spark is to pull a plug wire, stuff a screwdriver in the end, place it near a ground (anything metal on the motor), and crank the motor for a few seconds. If it wont start, you can still set the timing with a light. Just crank the motor over while you have the timing light on it. AVOID USING ANY STARTING AIDS!! (they have helped me a few times cuz ny carb doesnt have a choke) Make sure you keep clear of the fan, and beware of backfires through the carb. Properly setting the timing with a light is important, but some motors are so worn that you have to set the timing by ear(dont worry bout that tho)

If it wont start still, check all wiring connections, fuel and spark again, vacuum leaks (or missing hoses). You might have done what I have done alot, and that is to put in the dizzy 180* off. Line up the marks on the dampner again, check for TDC on the compression stroke, and start over again.

When you start replacing parts, you need to get it running correctly before you start messing with other things. If you don't, you can serioiusly compoud your problems. (for instance if you mess with the dizzy, and its not right, then you change the carb, you will have 2 problems to try and diagnose Bad timing, and flames shootin through you carb, then your truck burns to the ground, not good...... )

Heres a helpfull hint for you. Clean your dampner with a wire brush and your favorite degreaser. Spray some white spray paint on the dampner where your timing marks are, and wipe it off so that you leave paint in the cavities of the numbers. This makes reading your numbers a cinch. Rubbing chalk works too, but it isnt as permanent.

As far as doing other maintenance because it has been sitting, I would recommend doin this. Flush coolant, replace all belts, coolant hoses, rubber fuel lines, fuel filter, tranny filter and fluid change. Check rear diff oil, inspect brake lines, replace if they look overly cracked, mising rubber insulation, or badly rusted. Check/change your brakes in the front, and inspect/adjust the rear brakes. Completely bleed all the old brake fluid fron your system (about 1 1/2 big bottles of fluid otta do). Grease/replace u-joints, grease all front end components. Inspect the front end for loose/worn parts (bushings, tie rod ends etc etc.) Some people also recommend replacing the wheel bearings after extended periods of sitting because the bearings tend to do whats called railroading. The needle rollers will make little indentations in the races, and when you start using the truck again, the bearings will self destruct.

My first truck had on set for a while, the radius arm bushings were completey gone on one side, and the steering box was ready to fall off. It was a scary thing to drive down the road, boy did it wander like a drunk man. Getting an old vehicle road worthy again is very expensive, but usually its cheaper than a car payment


Sorry about the book, but I wish I had somebody tell me this instead of finding out the hard way!

 

no no its cool. I am glad you told me all of this. So should I take it to a shop and let them do it, or do it myself? I am good at doing mechanical work. Just not to good at doing somthing that has about 100 things to do (and then you get to take off the part your working on). For Example I was helping my uncle replace his distributor on his VW and the oil pump shaft started comeing out with the distrib. and fell off and down into the oil pan..... We had to do about 1000 things befor we could even take off the pan... And trying to find a gasket for it after that was a pain.... All of the things you said I should do... Do they involve 100 things to do or are they fairly simple for a beguiner to do? I meen I want to learn and there is no beter way than trial and error.... But I dont want to do somthing that I get into and cant finish because I dont have the tools, or $$ required to do. What do you think?

 

H@## no I wouldnt take my junk to a shop!!! If you have the tools, some common sense, and a good manual, you can do anything yourself. To get all of that stuff changed, they will take you to the cleaners for I would guess $600 in labor!! You can do it for probably half of that in just the parts..... My vote is to do it myself, one step at a time. THats how I got this hoopty finished (well, kinda finished anyways)
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Alright sounds like a plan.

 

the only thing I can recommend is to take your time, dont rush things, dont buy cheap junk. and double and triple check your work, Get a good manual too.....

 

what manual would you recomend? I have the Chilton Manual for Older fords and certian years of Bronco. I heard of some other manuals just for the engine?