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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

No crank condition

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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 08:02 AM
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No crank condition

Soo i had no crank condition in my 96 f150 4.9L automatic.
did a few different home test (since i couldnt get it anywhere) came to the conclusion that it was the starter solenoid.(fender mount). Replaced it and sumbitch cranked right up.... When i woke up the next day, same thing- no crank. Any ideas?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 09:32 PM
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I had the same issues - turned out to be the battery connections. Check and clean them, also check and clean grounds. Worked for me.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 11:38 AM
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Definitely always start with the battery connections. Can't tell you how many times I diagnosed or replaced parts just to realize it was loose connections.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 10:41 AM
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Thanks guys. Im actually messin around with them now.. Have u ever had to add a ground after replacing the solenoid?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 12:08 PM
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Ok so all connections are good and i can hear the relay flip wheb i turn the key but still nothing.. I feel like its going to be something stuoid but i cant quit put my finger on it
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 01:21 PM
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I've never had to ADD a ground but as I mentioned before, my no crank condition was caused by dirty battery terminals and battery wires. I committed the "throw parts at it" sin by replacing my starter solenoid when it wasn't the problem. Also it wasn't just the ends of the terminals, but also where the terminals connected to the wires that were covered in gunk. After removing the old terminals, cleaning up the bundle of wires, and soldering on new terminals it was good as new.

However, in the process I received a lot of good advice, which mostly centered around checking engine and body grounds, as well as the connections and grounds for the starter. It sounds like a dumb, tedious process but could save you money from throwing parts at the truck.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:13 PM
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Im about to just run brand new wires from starter and every damn thing. I hardly have any time to do anything and this is quite frustrating. I may invest into a good probe and see what that does for me. This just makes me feel retarded.. Maybe i am 😂
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:14 PM
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But i appreciate your 2 cents Evan
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 04:55 AM
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Ohm your current wires to see if they have excess resistance, which would help shed some light on the matter.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 05:23 AM
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If you bought a cheap solenoid from a box store, I'd be willing to bet money that its junk. I went through three junk solenoids before we finally hit a good one, and that was about 8 years ago. It's one of those parts that it's better to spend for a good one.

Just my $0.02, for what it's worth...
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Deadpool12
Im about to just run brand new wires from starter and every damn thing. I hardly have any time to do anything and this is quite frustrating. I may invest into a good probe and see what that does for me. This just makes me feel retarded.. Maybe i am 😂
So if you jump the starter solenoid it fires, or no?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:34 PM
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The on i got wasnt a motorcraft, but i did get 2. One from napa for 18(cost) and a better one for 24 like an idiot. I was hopin the 24 would handle business and id return the other. both relays got same result.. Good for the day- dead tomorrow. which originally led me here. And i did probe wires with good result. Im on the verge of re-wiring everything.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:36 PM
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Ctnd..

And the, "well ya might as well throw a motor in while ur at it." idea comes in.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:37 PM
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No

Originally Posted by LSCRX
So if you jump the starter solenoid it fires, or no?
No
Spark only
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:55 PM
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'96 is well over 20 years ago. Cables are getting old. Ground points and connections have never been opened or cracked I betcha. Do yourself a favor and get yourself some good copper replacement cables and terminals from the tractor supply store. Don't buy the drugstore generic replacement cables. They cost about the same, but are not up to the task. You can try ohming them out but it won't tell you much. A few extra hundredths of an ohm is enough to leave you stranded. Remember it draws 200 amps at 12 volts!

What you CAN do is test the cables and grounds while they are under load, when they are energized, for voltage drop. Not necessarily across Pos and Neg, but along the cable or connection in parallel. All you need is a voltmeter. Set it on the lowest setting. The drop will be displayed as a positive number. Since the voltmeter is an easier path around the corrosion, it will show up on your display. Pretty cool huh?

Can start by checking the entire negative circuit by placing the voltmeter probes between negative battery post and starter case. Crank the engine over. The limit is about 0.10 volt. Then you can narrow it down as far as you want, all the way to checking say, the voltage drop between just the neg battery post itself and the neg battery terminal. Bad cables and grounds will screw up the charging system and battery too. Hope this helps and let us know what you find.
 
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