Hey gents. I've recently rebuilt my E4OD (1992, E-150 conversion van, 351 engine)
The transmission seemed to work fine for approx 600 miles of driving. When pulling a trailer (approx 3,000 lbs) I started getting a slight surge/slip when going up a grade, before the trans would downshift. When it downshifted and engine rpms raised I would hear a ticking sound. I assumed the slight slipping and ticking sound was the torque converter (I didn't change it when I rebuilt the trans, so it was original).
I removed the torque converter, purchased a rebuilt one from Autozone, put 2 qts of mercon fluid in it, installed the torque converter, replaced the trans fluid and filter, and checked torque of the valve body fasteners while they were exposed.
I started the engine and the CEL lit, I let the engine run to allow the trans fluid to fill the torque converter and warm up the engine.
When I put into gear (with brake on and wheels blocked because the van is on blocking so I can get under it) the engine bogged down and shut off.
I put the rear axle on jack stands and started the engine (again the CEL lit). I put the trans in 1 and allowed the rear wheels to rotate. When I apply the brake the engine again bogs down and shuts off.
The engine rpm stays high now too, even when warmed up.
I pulled the codes for the CEL. OBD1 codes 128 (Manifold absolute pressure sensor/vacuum hose disconnected or damaged), 553 (Air management circuit 2 fault), and 556 (Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault).
The engine and trans seemed to work fine prior to replacing the torque converter. Now it's all messed up.
Any thoughts on what could be causing all of the different error codes and why the new torque converter acts like the torque converter clutch is always being activated?
I had no CEL on prior to swapping the torque convertor

 

Low trans fluid, or a loose/missing internal filter can do this.

 

Thanks Mark. I didn't know that Mercon V was a replacement (there's so many types out there)
I'll add more fluid too. I pulled out approx 10 qts plus what I couldn't drain from the torque converter.
I put in 11 qts when reassembling (2 qts in torque converter and 8 through the fill tube into the trans.
It's hard to read clean fluid on the dipstick, but when cold the level appears to be at the "cold full" mark.

If that doesn't work I'll drain the fluid, drop the pan, and check the filter install.

 

Are you checking the fluid level with the engine running and the trans in park? If not, your reading is way off.

 

No. I was checking with the engine cold, or after <5 minutes of running, and the engine off. Using the "cold full" mark on the dipstick.
I'll do it with engine running and in park this evening.

 

E4OD holds about 14 quarts.

 

Checking with the engine off will read higher than the actual level.

E4OD holds about 18 quarts.

 

Thanks guys,
Started engine, engaged all gears, put in Park, checked fluid (while engine running), fluid level was below the "cold" mark on stick.
Added 1 qt, torque converter got quieter (it must like oil), kept engine running and ran through all gears for 20 minutes ( to get it hot)
Put in Park and checked oil again (while engine running). In the "cold" area, but below the "hot" area. Added another quart (now at 14 quarts total).
Let engine run for another 20 minutes, while going through all the gears with the rear tires off the ground.
Trans is quiet, torque converter is quiet, and rear wheels stop when I apply the brake, without stalling the engine (even though it was at a high rpm due to a vacuum leak I hadn't found yet).
Checked trans oil level and it is midway in the "hot" range on the dipstick.
Found a vacuum hose above the trans fill tube had come off when I pulled the fill tube out of the trans, when removing the trans.
Put vacuum hose back on and the engine idle rpm returned to normal.
So, all is good now.
Thank you very much for the tip on checking the trans oil level while the engine is running. I thought the "cold" check meant the oil level with the engine cold and turned off. Boy was I wrong.
Thank you for the fluid capacity info. I put in a total of 14 qts. There's probably a few qts in the valve bodies and in the main trans cavity.
So far a success. I'll take out and drive it around tonight. Thanks for all your help and info guys.

 

Mine holds 14 as per the owners manual

 

17.5, IIRC, from when I replaced mine. 14 must be a misprint. Owners manuals are not the highest authority. Service manuals rank higher, service bulletins outrank service manuals, and Mark outranks all of them.

 

Used 19qt on my last drain and fill (cooler line method). One extra drained to get as much bad fluid out as possible. Used Mercon V on the refill. Added a big trans cooler. Hoping this got me some extra time.