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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

torque converter

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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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1989Ford7.3L's Avatar
1989Ford7.3L
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Arrow torque converter

Hey Iv been working on a 1991 F250 7.3L diesel. Does anybody know how much and what kind of fluid I need in the torque converter? This is all being done with the engine out so space isnt a problem to fill it. When I pulled the engine out the engine lifted up the trans a bit. After the output shaft released from the engine some red fluid apperaed. Im not sure if this is a problem or if a seal broke. Any body know what it could be? Has anybody been able to put the engine back in with the torque converter mounted to the engine and easily get the shaft to line up to the engine? or should I drop the trans and put the engine in? As I pulled the engine I had the trans in neutral but wasnt able to spin the trans shaft-is this normanl?? Thanks for the help
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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Hitokori
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dexron mercon III and lots of it till its full and u cant put the torque converter on the engine first

it must be seated completly in the transmission first u will know when its there coz their will be a unmistakeable thunk

when putting the engine in u can drop the trans or move it back then lower it on to the motor mounts and bolt it down then bolt the trans to it followed by boling the T/C to the flexplate

or mount the trans to the engine out of the truck and put it in as one

u should be able to spin the tail shaft with the trans in nuetral and the torque converter at all times

i think that covers ur questions

oh if u pulled the engine out with the T/C on it u prolly busted the seal in the pump and u dumped fluid out of the T/C

so look at ur seal and fill the T/C up again
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 04:13 AM
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Lazy K
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Don`t worry about any fluid loss now. You can bring it up to level on the dipstick when you get it back together.
As already said it`s unlikely that you could get the torque converter properly seated in the trans while still bolted to the engine.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 05:22 AM
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LCAM-01XA
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Nor should you even attempt to mate an engine and a trans with the converter bolted to the engine - first you slide the converter on the transmission input shaft, then turn the converter by hand till its studs line up with the holes in the flexplate, then bolt the trans to the engine (while watching the converter studs to actually slide in the flexplate holes), and finally you install and tighten down the nuts on the converter studs. When the whole thing is together, you fill up the trans through the dipstick tube (with a funnel) - as the engine turns when fired up it will also turn the transmission's fluid pump, which will quickly fill up the converter and all the fluid passages that may have got empty when when trans was tilted - you'll have to check fluid level few times in the process, and keep adding fluid as necessary. IIRC there's like 7 quarts of fluid in the converter, then you have like 4 in the pan, plus about one in the valve body and the cooler up front, for a total of roughly 3 gallons of ATF for a complete fluid change, but you definitely won't need nearly as much - I'd say buy two 1-gallon jugs as a good measure, then if you're lucky you'll actually only use one or less and you can return the other.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 09:04 AM
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1989Ford7.3L's Avatar
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Im gettein ready to put the engine back in. After the T/C is on the input shaft of trans and the engine is in place and bellhousing mated to engine how do you line up the 4 studs on the back side of the T/C into the flex plate? How do you put the four nuts back on the studs on the back of the flex plate? Can you reach them from the bottom inspection cover and it would only be one- do you have to turn the engine? How do you turn the engine to get the other 3? What type of thread locker should be used on these nuts? Or is there a differant way to do this job??
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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no other way to do the job but threw the bottom

u can turn the engine at the harmonic balencer or get a flywheel dog ad turn it that way

it should be bolts not studs but if thats what u are using then u can line them up with the holes in the flex plate when u are putting it back on the engine.... then all u would have to do is put the nuts on

thread locker.... not really required if u torque them right but i would go with some lock tight... the blue colored one
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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1989Ford7.3L
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thanks for all the help and info!! I got everyhting put together today and itrs awesome to have a truck again. Got a few problems tho- the trans shifts no problem. It drives foward with out problems but reverse is a issue. I got it drivin reverse a bit but ran outa room in my barn. After that it wouldnt reverse again. Thinking Il do a filter change. Any other ideas to look or fix? The truck sat for 6 years. To change the filter do you just drop the bottom pan on the trans?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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yep thats how u do it... if u wanted u could get one of those pans with a drain plug to put back on it for changing it later on too...
 
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