Question about 7.3l disassembly.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Edmond, OK
Question about 7.3l disassembly.
I've had my spare 7.3l sitting in my shop for months. Last weekend I disassembled it comletely except for the intake and exhaust manifolds. I plan on performing a cylinder leak down test. If it performs well I intend to use the engine as is.
I have a question regarding IP timing. I removed the IP but haven't rotated the engine yet. From my understanding the dowel on the IP drive gear will ensure my timing is correct if I were to reinstall the old IP. However, if I remove the IP drive gear housing will it throw out the timing? I intend to buy a new IP and injectors. I've done some reading but I just want to make sure of evrything before I disassemble it further.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
https://www.oilburners.net/brian/idi...nServicing.htm
I would like to regasket the IP drive gear housing, timing gear cover, intake manifold/pan and oil pan during reassembly. Thanks for helping an IDI noob!
I have a question regarding IP timing. I removed the IP but haven't rotated the engine yet. From my understanding the dowel on the IP drive gear will ensure my timing is correct if I were to reinstall the old IP. However, if I remove the IP drive gear housing will it throw out the timing? I intend to buy a new IP and injectors. I've done some reading but I just want to make sure of evrything before I disassemble it further.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
https://www.oilburners.net/brian/idi...nServicing.htm
I would like to regasket the IP drive gear housing, timing gear cover, intake manifold/pan and oil pan during reassembly. Thanks for helping an IDI noob!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 884
Likes: 7
If you're taking the timing cover off it's stupid easy. Remove everything, rotate the engine until the Y on the cam gear is at 12 o'clock. Put timing cover on, place IP drive gear on with it's Y at 6 o'clock (Y to Y). Put drive gear housing on, line up IP with gear dowel, and done.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
If you are going to take off the IP gearhouse, and then take off the front plate to time the gears, then you might as well do the main seal while it's all apart. 6.9 / 7.3 IDI Front and Rear Main Seal Replacement ? IDI Online
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Personally, I'm not worried about 'losing time' anymore, if the IP gear housing needs to come off.
The procedure is simple:
1. Pull #1 glow plug
2. Using a breaker bar with 15/16" socket, rotate engine. Feel for air coming out of #1 glow plug hole just before you hit TDC/0 degrees(harmonic balancer line matches the 0 mark).
3. Stop rotating the engine with the harmonic balancer lined up with the 0 mark.
4. Rotate the IP gear until the pin is at the 4-o-clock position and the two opposite bolts are level with the horizon.(Note: there are pictures out there of the gear-to-gear alignment).
5. drop IP into place, put bolts in it.
6. If required, pry up on the IP and adjust the position of the gear.
You'll now be either right on or one tooth off. It should start. If it smokes and sounds retarded of is really clattery, again get it to 0 degrees with pin at 4 o clock, loosen the IP housing bolts and pry up on the housing while attempting to rotate the IP gear such that it skips a tooth - rotating it clockwise(when facing the IP gear from the front of the truck) advances the timing, counterclockwise retards.
The procedure is simple:
1. Pull #1 glow plug
2. Using a breaker bar with 15/16" socket, rotate engine. Feel for air coming out of #1 glow plug hole just before you hit TDC/0 degrees(harmonic balancer line matches the 0 mark).
3. Stop rotating the engine with the harmonic balancer lined up with the 0 mark.
4. Rotate the IP gear until the pin is at the 4-o-clock position and the two opposite bolts are level with the horizon.(Note: there are pictures out there of the gear-to-gear alignment).
5. drop IP into place, put bolts in it.
6. If required, pry up on the IP and adjust the position of the gear.
You'll now be either right on or one tooth off. It should start. If it smokes and sounds retarded of is really clattery, again get it to 0 degrees with pin at 4 o clock, loosen the IP housing bolts and pry up on the housing while attempting to rotate the IP gear such that it skips a tooth - rotating it clockwise(when facing the IP gear from the front of the truck) advances the timing, counterclockwise retards.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
Personally, I'm not worried about 'losing time' anymore, if the IP gear housing needs to come off.
The procedure is simple:
1. Pull #1 glow plug
2. Using a breaker bar with 15/16" socket, rotate engine. Feel for air coming out of #1 glow plug hole just before you hit TDC/0 degrees(harmonic balancer line matches the 0 mark).
3. Stop rotating the engine with the harmonic balancer lined up with the 0 mark.
4. Rotate the IP gear until the pin is at the 4-o-clock position and the two opposite bolts are level with the horizon.(Note: there are pictures out there of the gear-to-gear alignment).
5. drop IP into place, put bolts in it.
6. If required, pry up on the IP and adjust the position of the gear.
You'll now be either right on or one tooth off. It should start. If it smokes and sounds retarded of is really clattery, again get it to 0 degrees with pin at 4 o clock, loosen the IP housing bolts and pry up on the housing while attempting to rotate the IP gear such that it skips a tooth - rotating it clockwise(when facing the IP gear from the front of the truck) advances the timing, counterclockwise retards.
The procedure is simple:
1. Pull #1 glow plug
2. Using a breaker bar with 15/16" socket, rotate engine. Feel for air coming out of #1 glow plug hole just before you hit TDC/0 degrees(harmonic balancer line matches the 0 mark).
3. Stop rotating the engine with the harmonic balancer lined up with the 0 mark.
4. Rotate the IP gear until the pin is at the 4-o-clock position and the two opposite bolts are level with the horizon.(Note: there are pictures out there of the gear-to-gear alignment).
5. drop IP into place, put bolts in it.
6. If required, pry up on the IP and adjust the position of the gear.
You'll now be either right on or one tooth off. It should start. If it smokes and sounds retarded of is really clattery, again get it to 0 degrees with pin at 4 o clock, loosen the IP housing bolts and pry up on the housing while attempting to rotate the IP gear such that it skips a tooth - rotating it clockwise(when facing the IP gear from the front of the truck) advances the timing, counterclockwise retards.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,963
Likes: 512
From: Edmond, OK
Thanks for the info gents. Since I have the engine on a stand I wanted to regasket as much of it as possible. My 6.9l leaks and burns oil like a sieve ( about 1 quart in 500 miles), I don't want the 7.3l to do the same when I install it.
I will definitely do the front and rear main seals. That's excellent that it doesn't have a rope style rear main seal. Those are a PITA to get right.
I'm undecided on installing head studs while the engine is on the stand. I should disassemble the engine completely and use a dial bore gauge and plastigausge to determine the health of the engine. If I were to go that far though I would probably just take it to a machinist. I guess I will stop with the front and rear main seals... and maybe the head gaskets and studs.
I will definitely do the front and rear main seals. That's excellent that it doesn't have a rope style rear main seal. Those are a PITA to get right.
I'm undecided on installing head studs while the engine is on the stand. I should disassemble the engine completely and use a dial bore gauge and plastigausge to determine the health of the engine. If I were to go that far though I would probably just take it to a machinist. I guess I will stop with the front and rear main seals... and maybe the head gaskets and studs.
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