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As far as the 65hp tow it was a whole different beast power to spare and my average mpg only went down .2 mpg the whole trip down. Now the bad news I don’t think my clutch is long for this world not slipping but a little chatter on take of with the he camper.
Any recommendations?
shawn
195000 miles on original clutch was a little jerky backing up before but tolerable with the camper it get a chatter when I take off is there a secret I don’t know.
shawn
If you don't have a 4x4, then you might be looking at a new clutch. I bought a South Bend 1939OHD from Summit Racing and could not be happier with it. I pushed and pulled around an 12K lbs 5th wheel with no problems at all.
The 2WD low in reverse is a game changer. If you go that route, pay attention to the description of the video as some FTE'rs have reported a different wire needs to be spliced into. If you have manual hubs, then you already have access to this, just go into 4 Low and don't turn your hubs to lock, leave them open. If you have ESOF (like I do) and want to try the 2WD low mod, just unplug the solenoid on the passenger fender before backing up and then switch into 4 Low.
Like I said, I could not be happier with the 1939OHD. It is a heavy duty clutch and if you compare the amount of friction surface to another clutch, you will see the 1939OHD has more. It was designed to be a lower cost, heavy duty clutch and it has performed very well for me.
Well, if you are already using the 2WD Low and are still getting chatter, then you need a new clutch or to have your flywheel resurfaced at the very least. There may be "hot spots" on the flywheel, but chances are that if the clutch is OK going in all forward gears (including the low granny gear), then chances are the clutch needs to go.
Are you sure you are seeing clutch chatter and not axle wrap?
Here is a video of what I was seeing as I was backing my 12K lbs 5th wheel into a spot.
The original chatter was when I backed in to a uphill parking spot at work even before the hydra no chatter when in 2 low just some when taking off in first after stop sign right after pulling the big hill.
shawn
Try to have foot off and he clutch before giving it fuel when not on incline dare minimum on incline.
Got into doing that in the big trucks on take off ugly things happen when you let one of them slip and add lots of fuel at 78000 pounds.
shawn
OK, it sounds like you know how to drive the truck.
It also sounds like you have hot spots on the flywheel or you need a new clutch that will not slip.
See what I mean about the 1939OHD friction surface below?
vs another clutch for our trucks from South Bend.
vs. a LUK from Rock Auto
Of course there are many, many choices for clutches out there. I went with South Bend because the tech that was replacing the clutch for me highly recommended them and all he does is work on 7.3 ZF6 trucks. I also called and spoke to South Bend a couple of times and they told me that for my HP goals of 420 HP at the very most and towing a heavy 5th wheel, the 1939OHD would do nice.
I have not been disappointed one bit... Some people don't like South Bend, I for one will be a South Bend customer (for clutches anyway) for a long time.
I have a brand new 1944-6O-HD clutch kit for sale, bought it new and ended up having my old one resurfaced by a clutch shop. Similar to the 1939 (wider friction surface) with a new flywheel. The box was never even opened. PM me if interested, I'll beat any price.
What do you mean a "hold back"? Like when you are going down a grade and you downshift and use the transmission to maintain a lower speed, that is OK. But, you should be trying to rev match to keep the clutch healthy.
By OK I mean it is perfectly fine and one of the intended uses of the transmission.
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