I did this modification. There are a lot of sites that think you should remove this bypass. IF the bypass is working properly, it's a good thing. Sites that say to dump it is because if they break, there is a possibility of having no transmission cooling. If something breaks, I tend to fix things. Maybe bypass something to get me home, but that is about it.

As for 'all you need' well it's a bit more difficult that that. You need a way to bend the lines. You need to figure out how to attach these lines to the stock radiator [5/16'] fittings. Sure, you can probably find some adapters, but that always looks to be butchery to me. Go big or go home. For me, it's worth the upgrade, but it's not as simple as you think it would be.

When I attempted to remove the adapters on my radiator trans cooler, I developed a leak. I'm not too surprised since my radiator was almost 30 years old. Good time to swap it out. The new radiator came with the small and large fittings. I also looked for a company that made larger lines so I could just bolt them up. I had no luck with that.

 

I agree.

Also, if you remove the bypass and your cooler circuit gets restricted the first indication you'll have is that the transmission destroys itself. The return from the coolers is used to lube the rear half of the transmission. With no cooler flow there is no lube, and bad things happen really fast. If you have the bypass operating if the cooler circuit is restricted the bypass opens and the trans continues to get lube. Trans temps go up, but the trans doesn't fail.

 

mmmmm. Much rather see that temp gauge climbing to know the cooler(s) got blocked, than just getting a dead trans. I can't imagine people are suggesting to take it off. They're not thinking things through on that one.

Butcher, I ran my hard lines up front of the truck, and dead ended them there. Slid rubber trans lines over them (that brake flare works awesome to help hold the hose w/ hose clamps). Then from there, into the coolers w/ thermal bypass and of course, returning to rubber hose back onto the other brake line again.
I know a lot of people are not too crazy about sliding rubber hoses over hardline and using hose clamps, but the key is, not to over tighten your hose clamps. Been running drip free in two trucks for more than 10 years now.

I of course can't argue that running all hard lines or higher end connections, rather than the old school setup is better, but I feel so long as you don't strip your hose clamps, you'll be fine. They're also slid right up the lines 8-10 inches too. I haven't so much felt the need to even double hose clamp anything. People turning a hose clamp in past tight and once it strips; thinking that's the place, that's when things get messy over time....Sad part is, that's probably most people though haha.

 

What works for you is most important.

I elected to use metal whenever possible. I did use rubber in small runs since the radiator does not move and the engine does. Something has got to absorb the vibrations or the metal might fatigue.

I was expecting some leaks, but at this time, it's leak free. I have only used this set up this last summer. Camping season is over for me, so additional testing/QC will be done next season.

There are two camps on where to bypass or not. I think both of them have valid thoughts. I would not say either one is wrong. I do know, I installed the bypass because I thought it was better for me. Especially since I had additional coolers [ie restrictions] and if there was an issue, that there was a plan B. I really have not thought what I would do if there was a cooling issue. I am expecting I will never know.

There are millions of transmissions made without any bypass and with those millions that have come and gone, I don't think many of them were damaged because of a cooler restriction. I have no clue, but none of the transmissions I have fixed ever had a restriction issue. But that is just me. I suspect there are plenty of transmission rebuilders that have a different opinion.