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(12)HIO Silver
There is an article in there about changing the old alternator, and installing a newer 3G version. It's very easy to do. Then your new headlights will have lots of power. I would also suggest doing the relay wiring set-up.
Do the relays for sure. Then you can get whatever lights you want. Either halogens with clear housings, or performance sealed beams of you want to keep the "old" look.
You can use Halogen lights with your original wiring and alternator but they're better/brighter with the headlight relays. I changed mine to Halogen 30+ years ago.
I first did a 100amp since it was just a bolt in job.
An the price was right for a near new in box chrome for $20 bucks.
I had a 70 amp already to feed my dual batteries setup but the head lights an night still faded out some at a stop lights at night when,
I had my o/h camper on that had a bunch of clearance lights.
But a good noticeably increase in lighting when, I installed 100amp alt.
Well dumped the camper after gas went to over $5.50 a gal.
So played with doing some upgrades like the 3G 130amp then the replay setup to the Led running lights.
But have never checked the lights for driving at night after switching them over.
I know they'll be much better then what, I had before..
PS
For the head led light bulb upgrade you'll have to cut the head light bucket rear wider hole for the dust boot to fit through the back side like pictured below.
I did not like the led beam width that had the" Hey look at me I have the Halo lighting also so went back to the oem style fitting bulbs halogens
Orich
Well I did a little headlight checking and found that the last owner had converted the original OEM Ford sealed beams that are a bit yellow at night to a set of Topgear Autosport 7" round Sealed Beam High Reflexer headlight conversion with H4 light bulbs.
As close as I can tell the alternator is 55 or 65 Amp single belt pulley unit. Truck has a single battery, not towing anything at this time, straight AM/FM radio and no Boom Box Speakers.
Have not had time to make a night test run as I have been fixing small thinks on the truck to make it more road worthy.
Does this conversion look like it may OK for the time being?
The headlights were plug and play. No modifications needed at all.
The harness was pretty straight forward after finding a video to help with the process. Though not the same vehicle this was the most helpful video for me:
I did remove the grill inserts to make fishing the wire easier, and I removed the battery to more easily mount the relays. All in all a very easy upgrade which provides a good deal more light.
Simple as basic electrical theory. Halogens consume more amps of which your original wiring harness is marginal with small gauge wire and a marginal light switch, and with it being almost 50 years old, it it is time to upgrade with heavier wire and relays like more modern vehicles use.
Simple as basic electrical theory. Halogens consume more amps of which your original wiring harness is marginal with small gauge wire and a marginal light switch, and with it being almost 50 years old, it it is time to upgrade with heavier wire and relays like more modern vehicles use.
There is no need to upgrade the wiring on the truck.
The wiring harness that gets installed with the relays does need to be larger as that part will be carrying more load.
The trucks old wiring is then used as a switch to work the relays.
Even if you don't go with halogens using the relay and harness will make the stock sealed beams brighter because they are now getting full 12 volts as it only goes from battery to relay to lights.
Dave - - - -
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