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but if the OP is leaking oil/134a from the front seal as well, just replacing the clutch won't fix the seal. there are kits out there to change just the front seal, but everything i have read about the FS10 compressor says to just replace it.
brand new Denso Compressor is like 125 on rock auto, MC ran me 230.
That is why in my first reply I said to use the stop leak stuff when you recharge it, $6.99 is a lot cheaper then a rebuild kit or a new one, and has been known to work for years. On the rebuild/replace he needs to suck the 134a out, to do it right and to keep from getting burned, I know a lot of people just let it blow off into the air...
Just giving options, sometimes the cheap quick fix works, other times it is best to replace things. Any actions are dependent on finances and know how of the OP.
The only thing I have against the stop leak stuff is the fact that the truck has 326xxx on it, and I'm guessing most of the AC parts are original and should probably be replaced anyway. Given the fact that AC season is on it's way out, I think what my Dad will do is get a MC compressor, and the rest of the parts on RA and just accumulate them over winter and install them next spring, that way it doesn't break the bank all at once but we can still rebuild the system
The only thing I have against the stop leak stuff is the fact that the truck has 326xxx on it, and I'm guessing most of the AC parts are original and should probably be replaced anyway. Given the fact that AC season is on it's way out, I think what my Dad will do is get a MC compressor, and the rest of the parts on RA and just accumulate them over winter and install them next spring, that way it doesn't break the bank all at once but we can still rebuild the system
thats what i did, well minus the condenser and evaporator
just unplug the pressure sensor on the accumulator to prevent compressor gernading