When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi there,
So my Dad's EX roasted an AC compressor clutch, I went and bought one and was replacing it when I found green dye behind the coil. I was told by a guy I know that I should really should replace the compressor, orface tube, evaporator and condenser. He also said to get them from Ford, as the quality is much higher. Now I don't disagree with any of that, but my Dad can't afford dropping $1000+ on the truck at this time. Are there any aftermarket parts with good quality but a bit cheaper?
If its pushing out some oil but holds a decent charge I would just replace the clutch and wait until it goes. Alternatively that pump is very common and can be had new for around 150.00. The ford pumps are not very special and are marked made in china just like the rest of the stuff these days.
If its pushing out some oil but holds a decent charge I would just replace the clutch and wait until it goes. Alternatively that pump is very common and can be had new for around 150.00. The ford pumps are not very special and are marked made in china just like the rest of the stuff these days.
mine was made in Mexico, just installed 2 months ago
New compressor, orifice, and drier are under 300 from rockAuto
i tend to stick to certain brands and gave up on remans... your initial post just mentioned the clutch.. did the rest of the compressor seize up?? if it was just the clutch id just replace that... if it was the whole compressor i like murray and 4 seasons..
unfortunately if the compressor itself seized up youll want to take your friends recomendation as it puts stuff throughout the system...
Was the system cooling to satisfaction before the clutch went out? Did the leak dye look fresh?
If there is a way for the dye to leak out, than there is a way fro the Freon to leak out too. Added heat from the clutch or coil failure may have been too much for the front seal.
If you just have a leaking rear seal, I'd replace the compressor, accumulator, and the orifice tube. Unless the compressor grenaded, there's not need to replace the condenser unless you have some other compelling data that suggests it needs to be replaced. Likewise for the evaporator core. Evaporator core failures are pretty rare and are usually seen when something else fails catastrophically, like a blown compressor or a leaking desiccant bag in conjunction with failed screen on the orifice tube.
Was the system cooling to satisfaction before the clutch went out? Did the leak dye look fresh?
If there is a way for the dye to leak out, than there is a way fro the Freon to leak out too. Added heat from the clutch or coil failure may have been too much for the front seal.
It did cool, and everything seemed to work. The dye looked pretty bright and fresh.
It did cool, and everything seemed to work. The dye looked pretty bright and fresh.
that's what mine was doing.... i'm glad i did all new MC parts on it. the mechanic who refilled the system for me told me to just swap the parts and not have to flush anything unless there was evidence of a catastrophic failure, which there was not. the Ex is too large (and in my case, dark green) so AC was a must for me and worth the few hundred now vs a lot more later
It did cool, and everything seemed to work. The dye looked pretty bright and fresh.
You're probably best to just replace the compressor, and the accumulator/drier, visually pull/check the strainer/orifice, clean if needed with alcohol and tooth brush or but a new one, which ever, inspect the front condenser with a flashlight, or just pull it and hold it up to the light. Proper airflow across the condenser is critical to a good functioning system, it's really impossible to know how bad it is unless you hold it up to the light cause there are other coils behind it. Replacement condensers are cheap enough, so it's wise to just put a new one in when you can. If you're close to me, bring it here, I've got all the gear.
For a quick reference, the clutch is $50-100, while a new condenser w/ clutch is $150-250.
Years ago my clutch locked up on my old '98 Expy, stalled/killed the engine while my wife was driving it (happened about 2 blocks from the house as she was coming home). Everyone made it sound like the motor locked up, needless to say i figured out the a/c clutch was causing the problem after about an hour of looking at it.
Swapped it out with a cheap $50 dollar one and the a/c worked great up until last week?, making it about 5 years old before the electromagnet went out. Probably more so my fault as the Expy has barely been driven or started much over the last year and a half, it was working 3 months ago though.
For a quick reference, the clutch is $50-100, while a new condenser w/ clutch is $150-250.
Years ago my clutch locked up on my old '98 Expy, stalled/killed the engine while my wife was driving it (happened about 2 blocks from the house as she was coming home). Everyone made it sound like the motor locked up, needless to say i figured out the a/c clutch was causing the problem after about an hour of looking at it.
Swapped it out with a cheap $50 dollar one and the a/c worked great up until last week?, making it about 5 years old before the electromagnet went out. Probably more so my fault as the Expy has barely been driven or started much over the last year and a half, it was working 3 months ago though.
but if the OP is leaking oil/134a from the front seal as well, just replacing the clutch won't fix the seal. there are kits out there to change just the front seal, but everything i have read about the FS10 compressor says to just replace it.
brand new Denso Compressor is like 125 on rock auto, MC ran me 230.