Things to change with Compressor
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
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From: Springfield, PA
Things to change with Compressor
I have an '05 Equinox that needs a new compressor. Posting here because GM used the same Ford scroll compressor as found in the '05 Explorer - that and FTE rocks. It would would work on the highway somewhat, but not when stopped or in town. I tried the control valve on the back of the compressor but no change. I have a vacuum pump and gauge set, system holds vacuum overnight, but doesn't reach adequate high pressure when low pressure side is filled to the recommended 40-50 psi number.
So I'm going to replace the compressor, but many sources say you should replace this or that along with the compressor. Just wondering the why's for these recommendations, and if the evaporator never makes the list simply because it's so hard to get to in most cars. This 125k mile car was just recently demoted as I got the wife an '18 Flex to replace it, and I plan to use it for work commutes within a 200-300 mile radius of home. A search found this post from 12 years ago from @lsrx101:
So I'm going to replace the compressor, but many sources say you should replace this or that along with the compressor. Just wondering the why's for these recommendations, and if the evaporator never makes the list simply because it's so hard to get to in most cars. This 125k mile car was just recently demoted as I got the wife an '18 Flex to replace it, and I plan to use it for work commutes within a 200-300 mile radius of home. A search found this post from 12 years ago from @lsrx101:
It probably wouldn't be a big mess, just a waste of your time and money.
At minimum, you will need a vacuum pump and a manifold gauge set. The system MUST be pulled into a hard vacuum before charging. This removes air and moisture from the system.
Throw that gauge/fill hose in the trash where it belongs and get a proper can tap to go with a gauge set.. You can often rent a pump and gauge set from a local parts store. The can tap will be on the same rack with the other AC "stuff". Aside from virgin refrigerant, it's probably the only thing on that display worth paying money for.
There may be more that you will need depending on why you are replacing the compressor. What is wrong with the old one?
-If the compressor failed internally, you will need an orifice tube, an accumulator, and possibly a condenser. The system will be full of debris from the compressor that must be removed by disassembly and flushing.
-If you had a compressor "Black Death" failure, you will need to remove everything under the hood and replace it. Pull the orifice tube and inspect it. If it is plugged with black goo, you have a black death failure.
-If you had a clutch failure you can replace the compressor without flushing the system, but you need to replace the orifice and accumulator while the system is open. This also applies to replacing a leaky compressor.
-Regardless of what else you do, replacing all of the o-rings in the line connections is cheap, easy insurance. They are all getting old at 13 years and are potential leakers.
At minimum, you will need a vacuum pump and a manifold gauge set. The system MUST be pulled into a hard vacuum before charging. This removes air and moisture from the system.
Throw that gauge/fill hose in the trash where it belongs and get a proper can tap to go with a gauge set.. You can often rent a pump and gauge set from a local parts store. The can tap will be on the same rack with the other AC "stuff". Aside from virgin refrigerant, it's probably the only thing on that display worth paying money for.
There may be more that you will need depending on why you are replacing the compressor. What is wrong with the old one?
-If the compressor failed internally, you will need an orifice tube, an accumulator, and possibly a condenser. The system will be full of debris from the compressor that must be removed by disassembly and flushing.
-If you had a compressor "Black Death" failure, you will need to remove everything under the hood and replace it. Pull the orifice tube and inspect it. If it is plugged with black goo, you have a black death failure.
-If you had a clutch failure you can replace the compressor without flushing the system, but you need to replace the orifice and accumulator while the system is open. This also applies to replacing a leaky compressor.
-Regardless of what else you do, replacing all of the o-rings in the line connections is cheap, easy insurance. They are all getting old at 13 years and are potential leakers.
Last edited by SaintITC; Aug 20, 2018 at 11:05 AM. Reason: grammar
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 105
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From: Great Falls, MT
I think that post is spot on. New orifice tube is cheap and accumulator isn't too bad either so I'd replace given you have the system open and are spending good money on a new compressor and have to recharge the system anyway.. O-rings are also cheap and while they are probably good, I think it's a good idea to replace given the cost of refrigerant vs o-rings. Flush everything out to clean it well. Sounds like you have the tools to do the job and you don't want to do it twice from crud in the system or a plugged orifice tube giving you grief down the road. Do that and you should be good.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
I've never really worked with a/c stuff before, the equipment belongs to a friend. I was just wondering how the compressor failure can affect other components and whether the "advertising which advises to replace everything" is just another sales pitch. I found a kit which includes everything except the evaporator, but I'll be sure to flush that well. Kinda wondering what's the "black goo" lsrx101 is referring to.
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