When I did it I cut out a small square at the locations of the body bolts and stuck the square back on. You still get the insulation and a much easier way to locate the bolts when needed.

 

With the Dynamat, it tends to follow tight contours well. If it splits around the bolt heads, you can leave the patch in place on the bolt head or remove it. Since these areas are generally reinforced anyway, they don't have as much tendency to "drum" or vibrate so, my belief is that the difference is inconsequential.

 

That might work pretty good for me as well. Thanks for the suggestion.

I am using Noico mat, not sure how that compares to the Dynamat as far as the process or end result of the install. I've read where others said it wasn't a hugh improvement anyways as far as making it quiet, so I suspected that maybe leaving some kind of access to bolts might be a good idea.

 

I used Fat Mat, the thicker of the 2 products they sell. I think it's cheaper then DM. I put it on the entire inside of the cab. Had the gas tank out so even the back wall and under the tank is done. Tucked it up under the firewall pad as far as I could. Even up past the lower pad retainers, popped them out to get it up higher then put them back in. Also just put in in my '65 Mustang, below is a pic of how it forms pretty well to the contours on the floor pan. You need to lay it down a little at a time and work it into the contours as you go. Don't just plop the whole piece down flat then expect to be able to press it into the contours.


This is the floor of the Mustang.


Roof of the F100. The Fat Mat can come on a 18" wide roll so you can cut it as long as you want. Less seams. Test fit before you pull the backing off. I slipped it down & up behind the cab corner supports too, use a paint stirring stick or putty knife to perss it down were your hands can't reach.


Slipped it behind the support brace on the back wall. Had to do each section(between the raised ribs) of this part in 2 pieces, it stick too easily to get 1 long piece behind there.


As you work save the small scraps to do tight areas like this. Cab corner.
It's in the doors too, from edge to edge. I had the doors off when installing new rubber and felt every thing so it was easy to put the Fat Mat in when they were laying on a table.


I put a 2nd layer of this stuff over Fat Mat in the doors, roof, and cab back wall. It's cheap(Lowes, home depot) and works pretty well. FAA apporved for planes from what I read.


This is a little better look at it. This is when I was insulating the inside of the icebox door on our 1962 Shasta trailer.

 

The Noico mat comes in 12x24 pieces, might make it a little bit easier to install. That duct insulation looks about the same as the Noico, but probably cheaper. I'm not sure if I bought enough to do as much as you did, but I may make a trip to Lowes if I run out. I decided to go ahead and replace my body mounts before I start the process .They are looking kind of dried out, so I suppose it's time. Now I just need to find the right rubber parts to do it all. Strangely, I have a couple of wood blocks supporting the bed in one location. I doubt that is from the factory!

 

Actually the wood blocks were done by the factory.

 

 

I'm not sure what you are looking at that ND posted but if I look at the drawing from the MPC of the one bed used 1964-1966 on some of the trucks has a *10764, *10872 and *10875 that are the wooden blocks. They each have a small screw that goes horizontally through the support member and into the wood block to hold them in place. Screw is listed as

32937-S

Chad

 

 

This is the Fat Mat product I used. IIRC it was a 50' roll that did the truck cab.
https://www.fatmat.com/shop/50-sq-ft...included-23429