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Ok guys I hope you can help,
Ive got new exhaust manifold gaskets just waiting to be put on my 390 and it needs 'em, my question is, how much of a bearcat is this? I mean the last thing I want to do is go wrenching on my heads and bust a bolt off in there thinking Im knowing what to expect. So I hope someone out there can give me an idea of how difficult a process it is and the best technique for doin it.
Thanks in advance,
-Chris
Chris, this job is a royal PITA! Unless the exhaust system is really screwed up you’re better off leaving it until you have the heads off and can get the busted bolts dug out and heli-coils installed by your local machine shop. I sense you are going to do this anyway! So, spray PB blaster on the top bolts everyday for a week. I know it stinks! Then on the big day, warm the engine to operating temperature, put on your gloves and using a 1/2 inch drive six point 9/16 inch socket with 22 inch breaker bar gently move all the top bolts. Just rock them back and forth a tiny bit. Add more PB Blaster. Now using your 3/8th inch drive ratchet set and a deep well 9/16th inch socket gently loosen the top bolts. Turn them out a bit, soak with penetrating oil, turn them back in, then out and so on a little bit at a time. On reinstallation use new stainless bolts with anti-seize on them. Look carefully at the gaskets, the metal side goes towards the manifold and I like to use a thin layer or red silicone on the head side. Post back I am curious as to how this comes out.
Last edited by William; Jan 13, 2005 at 06:00 AM.
Reason: spelling
Will do,
Thanks for the info. I kinda knew it was gonna be a though one but it needs to be done, Ive let it go for too long now and the sound is just gettin to be too loud, it drowns out the sound of my glasspacks if you can believe that.
-Chris
Just give yourself some time. Most end up breaking a bolt or two....a 90 degree angle drill and a bolt extractor set is a good thing to have handy. Harbor Freight sells a kit for cheap! it's been good enough for me.
If it's any consolation, mine came out relatively easily. When I say relatively, I mean then came out without any broken bolts on the truck or any broken bones in my hand.
I can't second/stress enough the need for lots of Rust Eater, PB Blaster, or whatever you use on your own hardware. Let those bolts soak!
Thanks for all the info guys,
Now heres another one for you related to this, my uncle who I got the truck from said that the manifolds keep workin their way loose, so what can I do to help that? He said that the threads for the bolts arent stripped but, then why would they work loose? If I pull them off and it happens to be that they are stripped should I retap the holes? If so whats the most I can go before it aint safe? I know this is alot of questions but it will really help. Im not a total newbie when it comes to workin' on things this is just my first FE and I want to keep it nice.
Thanks again
-Chris
The experienced are right on the money! I don't even try to move the bolt for a while just pressure back and forth. Then a little more pressure, even when you're getting 1/2 a turn just work it. If it gets tight work it again, those bolts seem to be soft and brittle at the same time. I use a torch on the worst ones, get the head flange yellow hot quickly. You should be comfortable with a torch to to do this. Have a friend hold it so you can concentrate on bolt. Still, work it. Anyone have problems with this?
I'd be happy to drop a buck every 5 minutes then take the wife to dinner when done.
Ditto on everything, thou I use AeroKroil for lubricant. As stated previously, heat up the tough ones. Don't get in a hurry and YES re-tap your holes after you get them all out. Even the easy ones! It doesn't hurt running a tap thru a couple times.
I picked up a 74 360 to use as a core and pulled everything off the engine- it was a complete engine and tranny. Supposedly has 50,000 original miles- from the sludge build-up I am inclined to believe it. And there is just enough ridge in the cylinders to slightly catch a fingernail on. I was able to remove exhaust manifolds without any major headaches. Just a breaker bar and the easy back and forth wrenching suggested by so many. But no soaking or penetrating, other than that from all the old leaks , which seam to have been considerable. Hope all goes well! JR
Yep it does help to re-tap the holes after all the bolts are out. But dont forget to use a light oil to lube the tap. Go in 1/2 a turn at a time, then back it out. It takes a while this way, but it works best IMO.
You can also try the candle trick if you like. I've never done it but those who have say its better than any penetrant. You should be able to find a post through the search engine. It may be over in the 335 forum I forget.
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