Originally Posted by kd2dwj

Originally Posted by TX03RUBI

Originally Posted by pkarhoff

Here is some info I've gathered from tuning/tricking my 17 SCREW F-250.

I live in SE Pima and did a full DOC/SCR/DPF delete and blocked the EGR. I use GDP 200HP Low Smoke ECU tune with the PPEI 1.1.1 TCM tune. I run a 4" DP back pipe to an AFE straight muffler and from the muffler a 5" out to a 6" fluted tip. I did it this way to keep the gasses from expanding so quickly and having poor down low acceleration. So far it seems to be pretty good. I also removed the throttle body adapter and went with a machined aluminum direct adapter for the cold CAC tube. I am experimenting with designing my own catch can for the CCV but as of yet still have it stock. So far my unloaded MPG went from 17.X to 21.x combined city/highway and I have run it for 6000 miles. GDP seems to have the edge on the ECU and MPG vs PPEI to me where PPEI has the edge on the TCM. PPEI ECU tunes are snappy and very good just poor fuel mileage and more smoke. The acceleration is night and day better than stock at all points.The smoke, as the tune indicates, is low and in my case non-existent while driving normal. Under load or for a brief moment while getting on it there will be a little smoke but in both cases it subsides once the turbo spins up to provide the boosted air. While Tucson does require emissions I live just outside the required area so I am not required to get it. You can verify that you are required by looking on AZ DEQ website. If you find that you live outside the area you can call them and they will remove the requirement from the MVD system.

Some of the levels I have now are:

Exhaust Manifold Pressure: Between 1.0 and 7.0 idle and cruising. It will momentarily go higher on heavy acceleration. Using the exhaust brake it hits in the high 30s. For reference, at stock it was always higher than 12 for me.

Turbo Pressure: Between .02 and 34 depending on throttle but usually is within 1 to 3 of the Exhaust unless braking, idle or accelerating.

Turbo Vane Position: Between 27 and 47 cruising on the highway and 27 and 60 in town. With exhaust brake on it will hit 99 and under a very heavy acceleration it has gone to 0.

Injector Pressure: 4.6K PSI at start/idle and with this tune seen as high as 29K PSI under heavy acceleration. I'm still trying to find the upper limit for both pressure and quantity on the Bosch 4.2s but cannot get a solid number. Some numbers have stated that it will handle 38K and others only 34K. I am more worried about quantity than pressure as I'd think I'd run the rail out of fuel before hitting the pressure limit. So I have not done anything higher than 200HP. With the Bosh 4.2s it is the low lubricity of the fuel that is the primary factor on them failing. I religiously use the OptiLube XL additive that reports the wear scar of less than 280um as from what I've read the Bosch 4.2s are designed around 450 um or less. Since the diesel here is normally 500+ um it makes sense to me.

Fuel Injector Quantity: Between 11mm/3 to 88+mm/3 depending on load/acceleration.

Engine Coolant Temp: Runs about 192.2 to 194 under normal driving and will hit 206 under load/throttle.

Exhaust Temp: Anywhere from 400 degrees to 800 degrees for normal driving and throttle load. Towing I watch it like a hawk and have a warning set for 1200 so as to slow down and/or down shift but have not hit this yet. I don't tow and go WOT so it may be a bit before I hit it.

I have not had any trouble with warranty. Each time the shop has worked around what I've done and have honored all warranty needs on the truck.

I do not like doing things that are specifically illegal but in this case it is a pure scam in my opinion. I did all modifications myself in my driveway (except for the actual ECU/TCM tunes) so that if any legal trouble were to come it would solely be on me and not anyone else. Everything I say here, again, is my own opinion from what I have experienced.

The truck runs better, gets better mileage and still produces very low exhaust. I am going to get it tested as an experiment to see if it will pass emissions at some point here this fall. The biggest kicker for me was the damned EGR and DPF. There is absolutely no need for the EGR on a diesel period. I don't care what any mech says, it does no good for the engine.

Allow combustion temps to be higher to more efficiently burn the fuel and you do get more NOX. However, it is simple to control that with DEF and DOC. Then the DPF would not fill as fast further reducing the full on waste mode of the "Active Regen" that happens.

Speaking of the DPF, it is a joke right now for many reasons; not the least of which is injecting more diesel on the exhaust throw to raise exhaust temps to burn off the extra soot created by the inefficient burn cause by a damn EGR controlling NOX. Stevie Wonder could see there is a well planned problem purposely put in place here. I'll play the dumb part and say if, I know they have actually, if they could figure a way to use the DPF and have some sort of electrically generated heat to raise the temps to 800+ degrees to burn it off then I'd be on it. Again, this is my opinion and I won't debate it. If you believe the EGR and current DPF is a good thing then bully for you and I am happy you feel that way. You may be right. On the other hand, from what I have researched, installed and done I come to a different conclusion.

I hope this helps some of you on your decision. Have a great weekend.

Originally Posted by pkarhoff

Here is some info I've gathered from tuning/tricking my 17 SCREW F-250.

I live in SE Pima and did a full DOC/SCR/DPF delete and blocked the EGR. I use GDP 200HP Low Smoke ECU tune with the PPEI 1.1.1 TCM tune. I run a 4" DP back pipe to an AFE straight muffler and from the muffler a 5" out to a 6" fluted tip. I did it this way to keep the gasses from expanding so quickly and having poor down low acceleration. So far it seems to be pretty good. I also removed the throttle body adapter and went with a machined aluminum direct adapter for the cold CAC tube. I am experimenting with designing my own catch can for the CCV but as of yet still have it stock. So far my unloaded MPG went from 17.X to 21.x combined city/highway and I have run it for 6000 miles. GDP seems to have the edge on the ECU and MPG vs PPEI to me where PPEI has the edge on the TCM. PPEI ECU tunes are snappy and very good just poor fuel mileage and more smoke. The acceleration is night and day better than stock at all points.The smoke, as the tune indicates, is low and in my case non-existent while driving normal. Under load or for a brief moment while getting on it there will be a little smoke but in both cases it subsides once the turbo spins up to provide the boosted air. While Tucson does require emissions I live just outside the required area so I am not required to get it. You can verify that you are required by looking on AZ DEQ website. If you find that you live outside the area you can call them and they will remove the requirement from the MVD system.

Some of the levels I have now are:

Exhaust Manifold Pressure: Between 1.0 and 7.0 idle and cruising. It will momentarily go higher on heavy acceleration. Using the exhaust brake it hits in the high 30s. For reference, at stock it was always higher than 12 for me.

Turbo Pressure: Between .02 and 34 depending on throttle but usually is within 1 to 3 of the Exhaust unless braking, idle or accelerating.

Turbo Vane Position: Between 27 and 47 cruising on the highway and 27 and 60 in town. With exhaust brake on it will hit 99 and under a very heavy acceleration it has gone to 0.

Injector Pressure: 4.6K PSI at start/idle and with this tune seen as high as 29K PSI under heavy acceleration. I'm still trying to find the upper limit for both pressure and quantity on the Bosch 4.2s but cannot get a solid number. Some numbers have stated that it will handle 38K and others only 34K. I am more worried about quantity than pressure as I'd think I'd run the rail out of fuel before hitting the pressure limit. So I have not done anything higher than 200HP. With the Bosh 4.2s it is the low lubricity of the fuel that is the primary factor on them failing. I religiously use the OptiLube XL additive that reports the wear scar of less than 280um as from what I've read the Bosch 4.2s are designed around 450 um or less. Since the diesel here is normally 500+ um it makes sense to me.

Fuel Injector Quantity: Between 11mm/3 to 88+mm/3 depending on load/acceleration.

Engine Coolant Temp: Runs about 192.2 to 194 under normal driving and will hit 206 under load/throttle.

Exhaust Temp: Anywhere from 400 degrees to 800 degrees for normal driving and throttle load. Towing I watch it like a hawk and have a warning set for 1200 so as to slow down and/or down shift but have not hit this yet. I don't tow and go WOT so it may be a bit before I hit it.

I have not had any trouble with warranty. Each time the shop has worked around what I've done and have honored all warranty needs on the truck.

I do not like doing things that are specifically illegal but in this case it is a pure scam in my opinion. I did all modifications myself in my driveway (except for the actual ECU/TCM tunes) so that if any legal trouble were to come it would solely be on me and not anyone else. Everything I say here, again, is my own opinion from what I have experienced.

The truck runs better, gets better mileage and still produces very low exhaust. I am going to get it tested as an experiment to see if it will pass emissions at some point here this fall. The biggest kicker for me was the damned EGR and DPF. There is absolutely no need for the EGR on a diesel period. I don't care what any mech says, it does no good for the engine.

Allow combustion temps to be higher to more efficiently burn the fuel and you do get more NOX. However, it is simple to control that with DEF and DOC. Then the DPF would not fill as fast further reducing the full on waste mode of the "Active Regen" that happens.

Speaking of the DPF, it is a joke right now for many reasons; not the least of which is injecting more diesel on the exhaust throw to raise exhaust temps to burn off the extra soot created by the inefficient burn cause by a damn EGR controlling NOX. Stevie Wonder could see there is a well planned problem purposely put in place here. I'll play the dumb part and say if, I know they have actually, if they could figure a way to use the DPF and have some sort of electrically generated heat to raise the temps to 800+ degrees to burn it off then I'd be on it. Again, this is my opinion and I won't debate it. If you believe the EGR and current DPF is a good thing then bully for you and I am happy you feel that way. You may be right. On the other hand, from what I have researched, installed and done I come to a different conclusion.

I hope this helps some of you on your decision. Have a great weekend.

Originally Posted by pkarhoff

My temps are taken at the very same block plate you are taking yours from. However, I very rarely go Wide Open Throttle empty and I never got WOT towing; it is asinine to do so. I don't care to pull 15,000+ up a 6% grade for miles at 80MPH passing everyone else just to tell some other bloke in a Duramax that I whooped his ***. I also do not run a 200HP tune while towing. In fact, I go back to a 0HP tune with a good TCM tune to help shifting is all. I deleted my truck for longevity, better mileage and not for all out performance. I don't fault those of you that like to run the hell out of them though. I know it can be fun and I do enjoy running the 200HP LS tune. It puts a smile on my face when young turds in fart can car try to race up on my 6 and cut me off then can't keep up when I punch it. The, "I just got turked by a syphilitic bear" look on their faces are hilarious!

To answer your question, the temps I posted I also stated "normal driving and throttle load" not "running around like a stripped assed ape WOT" trying to destroy my engine with a 200HP tune to see what the highest I can hit for speed and EGTs. As such, my exhaust gas temps reflect that. If I were to get on the throttle and stay on it then of course the temps would climb well above 1400 degrees. For reference sake, if I am traveling down the Interstate at 50 MPH, hit the peddle and let off about 80 to 85 MPH the EGT's will go from 575ish to 900ish degree range. This all happens in a few seconds. Now, running down the Interstate with cruise set at 75 MPH then the EGT's will be in the high 600's to low 700's. Assuming my EGTs would be higher than yours isn't really a good comparison because you are running WOT accelerating where the temps I posted were at normal 1/4 to 1/3 throttle cruising.

Lets go a bit deeper and theorycraft here. Hypothetically speaking, you have a 0HP tune and I have a 200HP low smoke tune. You go WOT, hit 0 to 60 in 8 seconds and have EGT's hitting 1400. I can hit 0 to 60 in 8 seconds using between 1/2 and 2/3 throttle with my EGT's hitting 1200. Keep in mind this isn't exact but would be in the area. Now, I go back and go WOT, hit 0 to 60 in 6.8 seconds. My my EGT's hit high 1400s to 1500s. If I hold out longer then I'd hit 1600's and maybe 1700's. I don't know exactly as I've never done it for longer than to 60 MPH. The difference here is squarely in the tunes. At 0HP your tune hasn't commanded your turbo to keep the vanes more aggressive early on and through the gears to allow the turbo to spool faster. I run LS tunes as low smoke tunes are contrary to low boost fueling which will cause your EGT's to climb much more. I also have a 4" pipe from the turbo outlet to about where the old DPF was and then upsize to 5". This helps some with quicker spooling while still allowing some expansion for better volume and flow.
I didn't mention before but one has to take into account, altitude, outside temps, humidity and the like. That all plays on actual EGTs.

I do apologize for the poor grammar and possible spelling. Voice to text via a cell phone just doesn't seem to work well for me sometimes.

Respectfully,
Phillip

Originally Posted by urname7698

Send me a PM if you need a northern AZ address. We live in Yavapai county and have a few other properties too

You also just update your mailing address to be your PHX address or a PO Box so you'll never even have your tags mailed there.