Ordered A New Sewer Hose
#16
You can make a storage "compartment" for the sewer hose and fittings pretty easily. Buy an 8' long vinyl fence post (5" x 5" square) along with 2 end caps. Then get a 10' section of vinyl gutter like you would put on your house.....along with the 2 end caps for it. Mount the fence post under the trailer from side to side and the vinyl gutter will slide right into it....a perfect fit. I used metal strapping to mount the fence post to the frame of the trailer and also made the end cap on the working end, lockable. There was room for two 10' section of sewer hose plus the 90 degree clear elbow.
Griz
#17
I'm on three different RV forums....
Keystone RV Forums
The RV Forum Community - Index
iRV2 Forums
I've got a Keystone Fuzion Impact 303, and that is what is pictured in my sewer hose storage photos. Here's a few pics...
Attachment 284815
Attachment 284818
Keystone RV Forums
The RV Forum Community - Index
iRV2 Forums
I've got a Keystone Fuzion Impact 303, and that is what is pictured in my sewer hose storage photos. Here's a few pics...
Attachment 284815
Attachment 284818
#18
The sewer hose that came with my trailer started leaking at the RV end of the hose. That's a bad place so I just ordered a new hose. I thought it interesting that a majority of the hoses I looked at have non-clear elbows where the hose goes into the sewer pipe. I like to have a good look at what's still coming out. Not that I'm cataloging the discharge but it's good to know when it's REALLY clear.
I also ordered new locking clips for the top of the awning beam. My trailer is 12 years old and one of the locking clips was so brittle that it broke off the last time I tried to use the awning.
A new Progressive Industries Portable RV Surge Protector Portable EMS-PT30X RV Surge Protector was purchased also. I don't camp in campgrounds with hookups that often. But I don't want to have my electrical system fried by a bad source of power. I considered getting the hardwired one but that's just more weight in the trailer that gets used once out of thirty nights I'm camping.
I also ordered new locking clips for the top of the awning beam. My trailer is 12 years old and one of the locking clips was so brittle that it broke off the last time I tried to use the awning.
A new Progressive Industries Portable RV Surge Protector Portable EMS-PT30X RV Surge Protector was purchased also. I don't camp in campgrounds with hookups that often. But I don't want to have my electrical system fried by a bad source of power. I considered getting the hardwired one but that's just more weight in the trailer that gets used once out of thirty nights I'm camping.
I leave this clear one always attached to my outlet. I do this only because access to my outlet is tightly tucked up tight just behind skirting. They work well and do not leak. It has rubber replacement gaskets same as hose fittings.
Also, is your sewer storage in rear bumper (that is typical location)?
You will like the Surge protector; I have that same model and it does its job well.
#19
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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#20
I borrowed/modified the fence post sewer hose storage idea, too. Our TH has one outside compartment. There was just enough room for 2- 5" fence post sewer hose storage compartments underneath. One has a full length hose, the other has two 1/2 length hoses and they can all be connected into one long hose. One time we needed a long and short to reach the dump. The clear elbows go in a plastic bin in the side compartment. Rustoleum black paint for plastic works well, but don't leave the parts in the hot sun. I have a slinky, but sometimes the gutter trays work well, too.
For those with an Equalizer hitch a piece of PVC fence panel from Lowes works great for storing the hitch bars under the tongue when not in use.
A couple of hooks mounted under the propane tanks holds the chains off the ground when not in use.
For those with two propane tanks a set of holes drilled thru the wing nut and another in the mounting bracket provides a nice way to lock them down.
For those with an adjustable jack foot a slice of a PVC pipe and a permanent marker make it easier to line up the pin holes.
When using a bent hitch pin a piece of 5/8" hose near the bend will keep the pin from ovalling the hitch pin hole.
A length of bungee with a couple of hog rings makes a nice cable hanger.
For those with an Equalizer hitch a piece of PVC fence panel from Lowes works great for storing the hitch bars under the tongue when not in use.
A couple of hooks mounted under the propane tanks holds the chains off the ground when not in use.
For those with two propane tanks a set of holes drilled thru the wing nut and another in the mounting bracket provides a nice way to lock them down.
For those with an adjustable jack foot a slice of a PVC pipe and a permanent marker make it easier to line up the pin holes.
When using a bent hitch pin a piece of 5/8" hose near the bend will keep the pin from ovalling the hitch pin hole.
A length of bungee with a couple of hog rings makes a nice cable hanger.
#21
#22
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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#23
I started this thread awhile back just so we could share mods. It never took off, but I would really love to see a thread devoted to mods..... maybe we could even get it made into a 'sticky' if enough people are interested in it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...od-thread.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...od-thread.html
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