If you go with the 140 amp you should NOT have to do any wiring up grades

 

Since I have two alternators I didn't feel the need to up the power output over stock (110A per alternator). The lowest one he offers above the chinese 135A is the 140A .

I talked with him for awhile about the different versions and he only recommended more than one bridge rectifier if I was rockin' a lot of electrics (light bars, strobes, plow, 10 megawatt stereo, etc).

I opted for the 140A single bridge rectifier (just the 140...not the Q1 or Q2) and they've been great. With my original alternators I would see voltage dip to mid-13 VDC driving around on a hot day. Now my voltage stays above 14.0 VDC no matter what the weather is.

I did not upgrade any wiring. The only change I did was add a case ground from the alternator to the (-) terminal of the respective battery on that side. If you look on the back of your alternator there's a threaded hole in the case. The ones I got from Quick Start came with a bolt in that hole and a tag that recommended the connection. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a couple of switch-to-starter cables that were the right length and connected the cases to the battery (-) terminals. They look like this:

https://www.pepboys.com/product/deta...618?quantity=1

I could have made my own but I don't have a crimper for that larger gauge wire so this was relatively inexpensive, I didn't have to source parts, was already crimped on both ends with a terminal, looked light years better than anything I could do, and comes in several sizes.

 

After adding the 160 amp alternator, I did upgrade my wiring. Not 100% it was required, but it sure didn't hurt.

See details here

 

Thanks guys!

 

When I added my 160 amp alternator, I added the external bridge rectifier with an inline fuse to the DS battery (4 AWG marine grade tinned cable for this leg). Was not required, but I added it for the "suspenders with belt" benefit (my own emotional support). I've had ZERO issues now in almost 8 years (110K miles).

Here is the thread I posted on my setup, complete with downloadable PDF of the work.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9198653

COMMENT: Sous' work is a little more robust than mine since he used 2 gauge wire, and his install is also a little more elegant with the lug extension and nicer dual fuse block. Mine has worked well for me, but I would mimic his install if I were to do this again!

 

Just a dumb question, but does Denso make an alternator as well as their starters?

 

I've not seen one, myself.

 

Yes.

Denso designed what could arguably be the best alternator rotor stator technology currently (ha ha) in use today.

The rotor stator technology is called Segmented Conductor, and is nick named "hairpin" by the way the conductors are neatly arranged in order, similar to traditional Japanese hairpins that retain squared away buns of hair. It is also nick named "flat wire", because the segmented conductor wires themselves are square, rather than round.

Ford began using Denso designed segmented conductor alternators in Super Duty trucks in model year 2008. Ford's adoption of Denso alternator technology into the 3 point T Mount alternator format that is traditional to Ford trucks and cars paved the way for drive end frame castings and slip ring frame castings designed for Denso rotor stator pairings to be plentiful. This paved the way for aftermarket alternator companies like Mechman and DC Power to offer alternators for Ford applications with incredible power density in small form factors. That power density was designed by Denso.

 

Looks like they do:

Find My Part


The only ones that come up are OEM replacements and are 110A remanufactured units.

I've not seen one either until I just Google'd it. I've not seen/read of anyone installing one.

It's about $50 cheaper than the house brand at my local auto parts store but there are a limited number of distributors in my area for the Denso (and most are distribution businesses, not customer-based auto parts stores/shops). I think that limited availability is what makes them less common IMO.

Just my .02

 

A lot of the bolt on stuff in my 2008 Subaru says Denso on it... I love that Subaru, it is a beast even in the mountains on muddy trails.

 

None of the alternators linked in Brian42's post quoted above represent Denso's superior Segmented Conductor technology. The links above are to traditionally designed alternators with traditional windings, that happen to be marketed under the Denso brand, but are not the best rotor stator technology that Denso has developed, which I was referring to and recommending in my previous post.

No doubt the age old axiom "Never judge a book by it's cover" still lingers in our cultural idiom even in this day and age of meandering Millenials. The same adage can be applied to alternators... never judge an alternator by it's case. That is, unless you REALLY know your alternators, and can recognize a case casting by the width of gaps between vent holes, the shape of the vent holes, and other details best left to trivia games for the certifiably insane.

When looking for the best of what Denso has to offer in terms of rotating electrical, it's what is inside that counts. Here is a photo of conductor segmentation, found on a European website, that conveniently illustrates the difference that I have been trying to describe on this forum for the better part of three years now.



As you can see, the power density per cubic millimeter of space is significantly improved with the segmented conductor design, due to the physical efficiency in how the conductors are organized and arranged.

This was the game changing design that Denso delivered to the table at the end of the last century, that first began appearing in production vehicles in 2000 (but not in Ford trucks until 2008).

 

Definitely not. The price alone gives them away. They seem more like "Denso branded" similar to the "Rancho branded" shocks that came with my truck.