Anyone running a dual or quad on e-series vans?

Checked out http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmtriplet.html but not seeing any ford e-series.

Maybe some installation pics from any diy ppl here.

Also if it is not much trouble, can you post a link to any year pdf service manual for the 150, 250, or 350 ? If I have to pay 120usd on ebay for just a quick glance at only one page, then I guess it is what I have to do

Looking for thickness/type of the sheet metal for the roofing.

Any input is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Note - For what its worth, for the helpful user, Im willing to share my stirling engine setup and instuctions with dimensions 20inx25inx20in which puts out 2k watts an hour with a startup cost of 3k.

 

2 alternators on a E is pretty common.

Why would you want 4?

In fact, for my year, Ford sells a bracket to mount it.

 

What's the advantage to running multiple alternators?

 

1. Power output.

One alternator can only put out so much power --- dual, if properly balanced, can do 2X

You can order 2 alternators from the factory for the ambulance, etc. packages and they are electronically controlled to "balance" them.

2. Accessories

Most upfitters will have 2 systems --- one stock alternator for the vehicle, and a second alternator for the "hotel" load.

e.g. an ambulance will run all their lights, siren, interior, life saving gear, etc. off the 2nd alternator.

Another application is high amp (ghetto blaster wagon) audio --- very common for people who imagine themselves to be entitled to shake the windows of nearby houses as they drive along and also get an early lead on getting hearing aids for themselves.

Other applications:

Service trucks with huge loads: including engine powered welders.

Generally, without going to liquid cooled alternators, your generic truck alternator is good for 1,000 watt or so RMS.

100A alternator X 12V = 1,200 watt, but that is maximum.

Actual output is closer to 600 to 800 watt --- barely enough to power a modern gasser with all its electronics.

 

Just curious -- what does the roof sheet-metal have to do with multiple alternators -- conversions?

 

Maybe he meant roofies?





Happy New Year!

 

i have only seen one source for dual alt's on a gas engine Van. and it was pricey. and i am cheap (well, i guess just poor - i know when my money is well spent and don't begrudge paying when the service offered has value and quality)

i run 2x200A alt's on my '95 E350 w/ 460. i treat them as two INDEPENDANT systems - they only share ground. one runs the van OEM electronics and the other handles stereo/video/acc's

i will try to throw up pix but the basics of the install are:
remove alt
remove engine install bracket - it is mounted to the pass side head
remove alt adj brkt
make a plate to mount both alt's - plate should have alt's mounted from behind
mod factory bracket to drop stock alt as far down as poss - one of the case lugs hits the oem bracket, if you notch the oem bracket then the oem alt will pivot down another 1inch+
put both alts in your new brkt
drop them into the factory brkt
then you get to figure out belt and tensioning and bracing :-))

electrical
i wired a relay to turn on when the ign switch is in the run position using the van's factory 12v system - pins 85 &86 on a bosch relay w/ internal diode (easily duplicated externally if you want using a 1N1004 diode from the shack - band towards positive).
pin 30 goes to alt2 batt with a 5A fuse w/in 12" of alt2batt.
pin 87 (Normally Open contact) goes to the green/red lead on alt via a small lite bulb with red lense that i installed in the face an AutoMeter ammeter that resides in an F350 Superduty steering column pod (bolts right on!)
you must bypass (parallel) the lite bulb with a 50 Ohm 1/4W resistor - this way should the bulb die, there will still be current at the alt to trigger it to start and the 50 ohm resistor is high enough to allow the bulb to lite.

i installed a 250A fuse w/in 6" of each alt to protect them should someone try to jumper the van with reversed polarity cables.

which leads to another little dissertation...
if you have ever seen or built a car that: the headlights flicker to your boomboom stereo beat, adding a big capacitor at the amp is not the REAL solution. the problem lies with the distance that the 12v trigger must travel to reach your alt. that trigger is the alt voltage reference - the voltage that the alt is try to meet. if the wire is long, like from your battery to your fusebox thru the dash to your ign switch and then back thru the dash to the alt in the eng compartment the distance can be as long as 12'. your stereo is generally wired directly to the batt, but every bass thump pulls off the battery but it takes a while for that voltage drop to make its way to the alt and be responded to. and of course the voltage dip has gone by the time the alt does respond so that increases the voltage difference and thus your lites blink.

the real solution is to pull a 14ga wire (fused of course) off the battery and make your own trigger "loop" - this is often MUCH easier than you think. and some alt (like Delco's) have their own idiot lite lead seperate from the volt ref. these only require a relay - 30 to batt + (min 14ga wire, fused), 87 (NO contact) to alt, 85 to ground & 86 to factory wire from ign switch. you want to keep the path from the batt to the alt as short as possible.

now the key turns on, voltage flows to 86, goes to ground via 85 and good +12V flows to the alt thru 30 and 87. no more flicker

 

There is a small issue with the voltage reference delay, but a much larger issue is the response rate of the alternator and engine.

What you describe most often happen at low RPMs, when the alternators are producing fraction of capacity.

A sudden demand to produce more from the sense wire, kicking the regulator into action, still need the throttle to be goosed to produce it.

Same phenomena in a generator --- engines can only respond so fast.

Hence the voltage drop in the whole system.

Put it on a scope and see the trace... and you will see this very clearly.


For ghetto blasters pulling that much load, the only way to go is 100% battery driven off its own dedicated batteries, with the alternator charging the batteries.

 

"The Oven" runs a new generation alternator that's wound for increased power on the low end with sacrificing top end. It's providing satisfactory power for my dual battery setup that runs my;
190/130 headlights (w/12 ga. wiring to relays)
Dual Amp audio system
CB w/250 watt brick
GPS
extra interior lighting
etc.

food for thought?