Brake help!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 96
Likes: 26
From: San Clemente, CA
Brake help!
It all started with a pair of leaking wheel cylinders on my '47 Marmon-Herrington/Merc woodie (technically not a truck, but some of you guys have a ton of experience), equipped with a Chevy 350 and Hydrovac booster. After battling with a bunch of repro crap and several adjustments and system bleeding, we ended up with 4 good cylinders, properly fitting shoes, new rubber hoses, new master cylinder and a firm pedal with the right amount of free play.
It all worked fine on the way to our local C & C today, but on the way home - about 5 miles - the pedal got higher and higher. Finally back home, there was about zero free play, the brake lights were stuck on, and I couldn't budge the car with a push. After about an hour, I checked it again and everything was back to normal.
I suspect something blocked or stuck in the booster, since it's the only component we didn't replace...any ideas?
It all worked fine on the way to our local C & C today, but on the way home - about 5 miles - the pedal got higher and higher. Finally back home, there was about zero free play, the brake lights were stuck on, and I couldn't budge the car with a push. After about an hour, I checked it again and everything was back to normal.
I suspect something blocked or stuck in the booster, since it's the only component we didn't replace...any ideas?
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 704
Likes: 78
From: SoCal - Redlands
When I bought my '39 p/u it did exactly what your truck is doing. The PO had done a complete brake job including an off shore master cylinder. I replaced it with a USA made Wagner and no more problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
If any one ever has there brakes locked up on them just bleed the master cyl.should relive the pressure.
Also feel each wheel as one may be hotter then the others that could be the problem..
Never just replace one wheel cylinder even if it not leaking as it can have one piston frozen on one side with crap.
Orich
Also feel each wheel as one may be hotter then the others that could be the problem..
Never just replace one wheel cylinder even if it not leaking as it can have one piston frozen on one side with crap.
Orich
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,156
Likes: 196
the only time i seen something block was a hose colapse ,which blocked that one Wheel. i seen a double master cylinder apply rear brakes by itself . maybe try and see if theres only one Wheel blocking or all four.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 333
Likes: 9
From: Oregon
'It all worked fine on the way to our local C & C today, but on the way home - about 5 miles - the pedal got higher and higher. Finally back home, there was about zero free play, the brake lights were stuck on, and I couldn't budge the car with a push. After about an hour, I checked it again and everything was back to normal.'
Sounds very much like a collapsed brake hose to me. Been there done that.... For me the culprit was a brake hose that had a rotted inside causing the lining to become a check valve. It caused the same symptoms you're describing.
Sounds very much like a collapsed brake hose to me. Been there done that.... For me the culprit was a brake hose that had a rotted inside causing the lining to become a check valve. It caused the same symptoms you're describing.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 916
Likes: 18
From: Colorado
Brake fluid..
Sounds like what occurred to me and my 1.5 ton. I used the purple DOT brake fluid because I was told it would be less likely to absorb water but had a lower boiling point. Well the brakes worked fine until I got on to the highway and used them. Just like you my peddle got higher and higher until it was rock solid and the truck would barely move. All the drums were hot but especially the front. I adjusted them back and limped back to the house. With the help of my wife I flushed the system, replacing the fluid with the correct stuff. Worked fine ever since.
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