Brake issue
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Longview WA
Brake issue
81 f250 , just replaced the drivers rear drum and wheel cylinder and now the pedal only returns 2/3s the way after being bled. Before it worked fine other than my wheel cylinder leaked. Also when i shut off the truck the pedal returns to its position... suggestions?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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If you got all the air out and the pedal was good afterwards then it looks like the problem may have moved to the master/booster. How leaky was the wheel cylinder before you repaired it? If you were adding brake fluid regularly then your leaky wheel cylinder was acting as a pressure relief. Once repaired the problem moves to the next weak link in the chain. Perhaps the master?
If your hydraulic components are old it gets to the point where you might want to replace them. Wheel cylinders, calipers, master/booster...
BB2
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Longview WA
Im baffled..its definitely vaccum related, the truck runs horribly now and the pedal once depressed stays at 2/3s like a vaccum is pulling it...if you pull on the pedal the truck dies. It ran like a champ at 20hg before i changed the wheel cylinder
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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Maybe the booster is shot? Try plugging the vacuum line to the booster and if your engine runs well you probably need to replace the booster.
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From: Virginia
Not sure if something else is ruined now or not, but what you should do for the rear brake you worked on is to go back and jack the wheel up, take the truck out of gear so you can turn the wheel by hand, and take a screwdriver or an adjusting tool and stick in the slot on the bottom of the backing plate and adjust the shoes out till you can't turn the wheel by hand,. Then adjust them in till you can turn it by hand, but there is still some rubbing. See what that does. That should bring your pedal back up, unless something else is wrong.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
How did you bleed the system? 2 person 1 pumping the pedal & holding it and the other opening the bleeder?
If so the stroke of the pedal went from a inch or 2 max to a LOT MORE till the floor stopped it. The rubber in the booster now also moved a LOT MORE and could have torn causing the vacuum leak and funky pedal.
Not sure if something else is ruined now or not, but what you should do for the rear brake you worked on is to go back and jack the wheel up, take the truck out of gear so you can turn the wheel by hand, and take a screwdriver or an adjusting tool and stick in the slot on the bottom of the backing plate and adjust the shoes out till you can't turn the wheel by hand,. Then adjust them in till you can turn it by hand, but there is still some rubbing. See what that does. That should bring your pedal back up, unless something else is wrong.
Did the shoes have brake fluid on them and if so they should have been changed and both sides then should have new shoes and if that far new wheel cly too.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: West Valley City
Anytime you do brakes, you should do both sides. You should also bleed all the OLD fluid out. As brake fluid gets old, it gets weaker. If you changed the drum on one side, you should change the other side, same with calipers and rotors on front.
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