Explain injector size.
Explain injector size.
Everyone was a big help with explaining how a larger turbo helped. Now I want to understand larger injectors. I understand that a larger injector will put more fuel in a cylinder when fired than stock,while being opened at the same amount of time. But I don't understand how they are sized or how it effects the engine power. Let's say I add a larger turbo and larger injectors but keep the stock tune. I am sure there is a way to match injectors to the size of turbo and a tune to make it all work together.How do you size injectors .
I am far from the most knowledgeable but I have picked up a bit on these injectors. The physical outer dimensions are all the same. The size (120, 140, 160, etc) is the number of cc's that the injector handles. I do not know if it is at once or over a period of cycles. The second number (0, 30, 60, 80, 100, etc) is the percent that the nozzle holes are larger than stock. i e 160/100 would be 160 cc's of fuel with 100% larger than stock nozzle holes, or double the size of stock. When you start running larger injectors the larger nozzle holes will permit the fuel to be discharged in the required amount of time. Too large of a hole on too small an injector will not properly atomize the fuel and it will not burn as well as it should. FIPW is the length of time that the solenoid is open and supplying high pressure oil to the injector, thus keeping the plunger activated. This number is very important in getting maximum use of the injector without overtaxing the rest of the system.
I am far from the most knowledgeable but I have picked up a bit on these injectors. The physical outer dimensions are all the same. The size (120, 140, 160, etc) is the number of cc's that the injector handles. I do not know if it is at once or over a period of cycles. The second number (0, 30, 60, 80, 100, etc) is the percent that the nozzle holes are larger than stock. i e 160/100 would be 160 cc's of fuel with 100% larger than stock nozzle holes, or double the size of stock. When you start running larger injectors the larger nozzle holes will permit the fuel to be discharged in the required amount of time. Too large of a hole on too small an injector will not properly atomize the fuel and it will not burn as well as it should. FIPW is the length of time that the solenoid is open and supplying high pressure oil to the injector, thus keeping the plunger activated. This number is very important in getting maximum use of the injector without overtaxing the rest of the system.
The E99 has AB injectors and I'm thinking that they are 120cc, 99.5+ have AD injectors, which are 140cc and the stock nozzle size would be 0, that is the base that they start from. I have never seen what the actual diameter of the holes is and I do not know if there is a size difference in them between the AB's vs the AD's. There is also an AE injector for the #8 cylinder that came in but I don't know when. It is a 140 injector that has a 'long lead' on it to help reduce cackle in the last cylinder on the fuel rail.
There is a wealth of information in the thread I started a couple years ago which I have linked below. Grab your beverage of choice and give it a read.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-aa-etc.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-aa-etc.html
Nutshelling it:
Stock injectors are about 130-140 CCs per 1000 cycles - if you are capable of draining them 100% in operation... which is hard to do with the split shot design and the stock nozzle size. Almost every time somebody tries to make use of all the fuel capacity in an injector, they tank the ICP and the atomization suffers - so we're better off just using almost 100% of the capacity.
Getting a single shot injector starts to get the fuel out sooner, which is good for power and exhaust gas temperatures - but sucks with emissions.
The stock nozzle on a stock Ford or IH 160 injector allows all the fuel out at lower RPMs (allows for a longer FIPW because of the duration of the power stroke), but higher RPMs demand getting the fuel in there quicker - or you're fueling a fleeing piston.
A bigger nozzle allows you to do your almost 100% fueling at higher RPMs, but the atomization suffers slightly. Then it's just a balancing act of capacity and nozzle size to get all the fuel out of the injector in under 3 ms fuel injector pulse width at over 3000 RPM.
Injectors with 160CC capacity and a 100% increased flow nozzle can drain at about 2.8 milliseconds at 3000 PSI injector control pressure - so you can drain them all the way up the tachometer. There is a caveat here - 100% nozzles need to be live-tuned to be as smooth as stock.
160/80s can't drain completely all the way up the tach, but they are easier to tune, come close enough to full power at higher RPMs, tow very well, burn a little cleaner, and the nozzle is unmodified in the shop. 80% nozzles are a whole different nozzle, where 30% and 100% nozzles are altered units - which can compromise their integrity and consistency.
Stock injectors are about 130-140 CCs per 1000 cycles - if you are capable of draining them 100% in operation... which is hard to do with the split shot design and the stock nozzle size. Almost every time somebody tries to make use of all the fuel capacity in an injector, they tank the ICP and the atomization suffers - so we're better off just using almost 100% of the capacity.
Getting a single shot injector starts to get the fuel out sooner, which is good for power and exhaust gas temperatures - but sucks with emissions.
The stock nozzle on a stock Ford or IH 160 injector allows all the fuel out at lower RPMs (allows for a longer FIPW because of the duration of the power stroke), but higher RPMs demand getting the fuel in there quicker - or you're fueling a fleeing piston.
A bigger nozzle allows you to do your almost 100% fueling at higher RPMs, but the atomization suffers slightly. Then it's just a balancing act of capacity and nozzle size to get all the fuel out of the injector in under 3 ms fuel injector pulse width at over 3000 RPM.
Injectors with 160CC capacity and a 100% increased flow nozzle can drain at about 2.8 milliseconds at 3000 PSI injector control pressure - so you can drain them all the way up the tachometer. There is a caveat here - 100% nozzles need to be live-tuned to be as smooth as stock.
160/80s can't drain completely all the way up the tach, but they are easier to tune, come close enough to full power at higher RPMs, tow very well, burn a little cleaner, and the nozzle is unmodified in the shop. 80% nozzles are a whole different nozzle, where 30% and 100% nozzles are altered units - which can compromise their integrity and consistency.
160/80s can't drain completely all the way up the tack, but they are easier to tune, come close enough to full power at higher RPMs, tow very well, burn a little cleaner, and the nozzle is unmodified in the shop. 80% nozzles are a whole different nozzle, where 30% and 100% nozzles are altered units - which can compromise their integrity and consistency.
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Here is yet another thread describing the sizes and how these injectors actually work with the tuning.
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99...-upgrades.html
https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99...-upgrades.html
I am getting a little handle on how injectors are sized. Now help me with the tuning side of the injector. When I turn my tune from stock to 40 the engine get louder ,then 60 and it gets a little louder again, then the 80 gets more loud. I know that most likely the injector timing is changed along with how long the pulse keeps it open. So my question is if injector size is increased and turbo size is increased, can the injector timing be changed back closer to stock where the engine will make more power but run quieter?
I suppose that is possible in theory, however: more fuel + more air = more boom. So you are still burning more fuel to get more power so I don't think the sound will get much quieter. If you go to single shots it will get louder. If you stay with split shots and get the HPx from RiffRaff it makes a noticeably difference in noise.
You say when switching tunes. What tuner and whose tunes are you running? The tuning plays a big role in all of these factors.
You say when switching tunes. What tuner and whose tunes are you running? The tuning plays a big role in all of these factors.
Nutshelling it:
Stock injectors are about 130-140 CCs per 1000 cycles - if you are capable of draining them 100% in operation... which is hard to do with the split shot design and the stock nozzle size. Almost every time somebody tries to make use of all the fuel capacity in an injector, they tank the ICP and the atomization suffers - so we're better off just using almost 100% of the capacity.
Getting a single shot injector starts to get the fuel out sooner, which is good for power and exhaust gas temperatures - but sucks with emissions.
The stock nozzle allows all the fuel out at lower RPMs (allows for a longer FIPW because of the duration of the power stroke), but higher RPMs demand getting the fuel in there quicker - or you're fueling a fleeing piston.
A bigger nozzle allows you to do your almost 100% fueling at higher RPMs, but the atomization suffers slightly. Then it's just a balancing act of capacity and nozzle size to get all the fuel out of the injector in under 3 ms fuel injector pulse width at over 3000 RPM.
Injectors with 160CC capacity and a 100% increased flow nozzle can drain at about 2.8 milliseconds at 3000 PSI injector control pressure - so you can drain them all the way up the tachometer. There is a caveat here - 100% nozzles need to be live-tuned to be as smooth as stock.
160/80s can't drain completely all the way up the tach, but they are easier to tune, come close enough to full power at higher RPMs, tow very well, burn a little cleaner, and the nozzle is unmodified in the shop. 80% nozzles are a whole different nozzle, where 30% and 100% nozzles are altered units - which can compromise their integrity and consistency.
Stock injectors are about 130-140 CCs per 1000 cycles - if you are capable of draining them 100% in operation... which is hard to do with the split shot design and the stock nozzle size. Almost every time somebody tries to make use of all the fuel capacity in an injector, they tank the ICP and the atomization suffers - so we're better off just using almost 100% of the capacity.
Getting a single shot injector starts to get the fuel out sooner, which is good for power and exhaust gas temperatures - but sucks with emissions.
The stock nozzle allows all the fuel out at lower RPMs (allows for a longer FIPW because of the duration of the power stroke), but higher RPMs demand getting the fuel in there quicker - or you're fueling a fleeing piston.
A bigger nozzle allows you to do your almost 100% fueling at higher RPMs, but the atomization suffers slightly. Then it's just a balancing act of capacity and nozzle size to get all the fuel out of the injector in under 3 ms fuel injector pulse width at over 3000 RPM.
Injectors with 160CC capacity and a 100% increased flow nozzle can drain at about 2.8 milliseconds at 3000 PSI injector control pressure - so you can drain them all the way up the tachometer. There is a caveat here - 100% nozzles need to be live-tuned to be as smooth as stock.
160/80s can't drain completely all the way up the tach, but they are easier to tune, come close enough to full power at higher RPMs, tow very well, burn a little cleaner, and the nozzle is unmodified in the shop. 80% nozzles are a whole different nozzle, where 30% and 100% nozzles are altered units - which can compromise their integrity and consistency.
I suppose that is possible in theory, however: more fuel + more air = more boom. So you are still burning more fuel to get more power so I don't think the sound will get much quieter. If you go to single shots it will get louder. If you stay with split shots and get the HPx from RiffRaff it makes a noticeably difference in noise.
You say when switching tunes. What tuner and whose tunes are you running? The tuning plays a big role in all of these factors.
You say when switching tunes. What tuner and whose tunes are you running? The tuning plays a big role in all of these factors.
You want to balance what you want, what you can afford, and what will work together. Those three aren't always in alignment. You can run a lot of different setups and get a tuner to tame things down or stretch the truck to the limit. Both of those scenarios are costly, one on the front end (parts) and one on the back end (repairs).
Once you start figuring out what/who interestes you let us know. Plenty of people around to share their experiences and help you spend your money.
















