Still new to this truck. The good news is an engine is brand new. The bad news is this guy had it since he was in high school and you could tell he didn't bother to fix things correctly most the time. can I get some help identifying some of these parts please? Thanks guys.

 

First is the Edge EAS system, it is to some sensor. Probably EGT pyro in the manifold

Second is the water in fuel relay, you can remove it. Check my e-fuel thread for how.

Dude sticking out with two prongs is a Hobbs switch, maybe for the e-fuel system?

 

Okay I suspected that was for the edge tuner.
I I guess I'll do a search under your name for the second one up next to the hpop.
the last two prong one is the one I must confused about. Mostly because there's nothing hook it into it and I have no idea what it's for. The E fuel system seems to be working greatThe and I don't see a loose connection near that two prong sensor. I'm assuming it's not stock since you don't recognize it?

 

I recognize it. just a lil Hobbs switch. It is normally open and closes at a preset pressure. My guess was installed for a safety feature on the Efuel kit that was never utilized.

Say if oil pressure dropped on engine it would cut fuel flow. Like on a roll over oil would dump out, HPOP would stop flow. Pressure drop due to no oil in sump, switch opens. Cuts power.

Who made the IC kit on there?

 

okay so you do know what it is and what it was likely used for. But obviously it's not hooked up now. I'll have to look around for a doggle or maybe this particular system just didn't end up needing it. More likely since this guy does **** half-assed, it could be hooked up and utilized. I guess I'll have to do a little more work on that and look up what he fuel system I have.I

The ad for the truck says that it's a super duty intercooler with custom piping by "under pressure".
Not sure if that was a local place up here in the Seattle area or what.

I'm so new to these trucks. Maybe I could take a few better pictures of my engine bay and somebody would knowledge such as yourself might be able to point some things out to me or some things that might be missing. I do have minimal crank Blow by but after reading some threads I would like to ride it back up into the intake system since I'm not getting any oil passed. I'd rather get rid of the smell and I don't care about the tiny bit of extra horsepower it might gain me. But since it's a custom intake I have no idea if I can buy that part with a stub on it or if I have to weld in my own. Maybe I just need to spend some money and have it looked over by a reputable off road shop. But I'd rather save the coin. I have a YouTube channel. Maybe I should upload a quick video to point out all my questions and concerns and then linked to it. That might be a way people could just kind of throw advice at me?

 

I am far from a long term 7.3 guy, but I have owned this era truck for about 20 years. I can point out some obvious stuff, other no clue that is 7.3 specific sometimes. Decently sharp on it since I have replaced or rebuilt most everything (really, everything but the bottom end) on mine in the past 10 months of ownership to make it durable. It truly was a bomb.



Pics and vids are invaluable. Post them up!

 

I'm glad I took pictures of the ad the guy wrote up for selling the truck. I've had to go back to it a few times now. I remembered, The electrical system is called a "Beans". Maybe like "give it the Beans" lol. I suppose I'll go to their website next and see if I can locate the system and any installation manual. Here is the ad for my truck. I also added most of the stuff to my signature. (Having absolutely no idea what most of it means)

 

 

you have a lot of goodies installed

Here is a layout of the parts under the hood to help out

 

Here is my take on some of your mods -

- I guess you have an F250. A D60 is the solid axle Dana 60 from an F350, big plus
- Hope there is a receipt for the 'fresh, 200 mile 7.3' and the '120k ZF5'
- Head studs you can see externally
- No clue to verify the injectors, maybe ask Jim on here if he has any documents for that person's name. I keep records of all parts I build for my BMW business
- D66 is a modified stock turbocharger. Bigger compressor wheel stuffed in it, stock is 60mm/80mm as I recall and that is a 66mm/88mm. I hear they are laggy down low and benefit from the tighter 1.0 turbine housing.
- For sure have some efuel and IC on there
- The T500s I think have a sticker on them
- Southbend has three nice singles. Organic, Organic HD, and half Organic/half Feramic. No idea what you have without receipt

Hope it helps. Those 37s are going to make that truck a slug, just FYI. Economy would skyrocket as would performance if you went to a 33" AT. But that is a call for you. Hell, even an AT 35 would be an improvement!

 

 

Great information thank you. Yes it's an F250. He had receipts for the motor rebuild which was all I cared about as far as the price I ended up paying for the truck. Seem like a decent guy I don't know about the other stuff although the stuff I can see did check out. I'll have to see if I can tell what the head studs are. What the aarp's look like compared to stock. I measured around the tires with a ruler and did some highway mileage checks and the math comes out to 18 MPG believe it or not. That's not accounting for fuel refill height but it's got to be pretty close. I was pretty damn surprise so I'm guessing the motor it's not only a you're in a half old, but it might indeed only have the 200 miles on it he was claiming. with you and a half old receipts I'm guessing the most he could have put on it was 10 or 15 thousand miles if you drive it alot. even if it at 30, 000 miles on it I still would have been worth the price.

On the tire front, the truck looks pretty cool but I could care less about running these. I was thinking of replacing them with fairly large Highway Tires while these still have some meat on them and I might be able to get some money out of them. It's pretty much going to be a pavement pounder/work truck that will eventually pull a trailer of mine that I have yet to purchase. I've been monitoring my vitals with the edge tuner and I've yet to be able to get the exhaust temp even up to 900 Degrees. And that was getting on it real hard. I think I read somewhere that 1200 or 1250 was as high as you want to see is that correct?

Nitto Grappler makes a Highway Tire that's pretty large that I've heard good things about. Any recommendations would be awesome. Good set of Highway Tires that will last a long time is all I'm after. I live in Washington so I have very mild temperatures and maybe get snow once a year of an inch or two on average.

The truck tracks a little bit to the left while driving and when I'm on the brakes pulls to the right a little bit. The Dana 60 steering rods oror tie rods I only have two adjustments. I adjusted the rod attached to the steering box and straightened out the wheel in the cab. The only other adjustment is on the driver side tie rod. Maybe it's towed out a little or in causing it to do this. Any ideas on that would be helpful as well. Obviously I could get it aligned and I might try to get that thrown in with my new tires, but that could be a couple months off. I'm not opposed to Tinker in a little bit to see if I can improve it with a little guidance.

this is an edit I wanted to throw in another question I had. Not knowing the last time any of the fluids were done I'm redoing the coolant. I bought a new thermostat just in case but I've recently read that the new thermostats open up at 197 degrees rather than the 205 or 210 the international recommends. I've read that the truck runs better, cooler and more efficient at the higher Temps and was wondering if I should replace the should replace the thermostat. I'm all about getting the best mileage out of it I can and is this something guys are doing and was that information correct?

What an amazing Source you guys are. Thank you all for the help!!

 

You might want to check where your EGT probe is located. If it is in the downpipe, that number is not accurate. If it is in the manifold (where it should be), it sounds like those injectors are tuned pretty conservatively.

Sounds like you have a solid truck! Keep updating us with pictures.... we love pictures.

EDIT: I just saw the EGT probe in the manifold in one of your pictures

Who wrote the tunes?

 

So I was a little off or a lot off with my EGT temperature claims. I put it in 3rd Edition along pull from 1002 3500 RPM and it got up to 1100 degrees. Does that sound about right? If I were pulling something and I was sustaining higher temperatures what's the max and what should I expect under a decent load pulling something like a medium size trailer?

the tunes are from PHP Hydra tuner I think? I'm going to pull the chip out and hook it up to my computer to see what Tunes are on there and make sure it is actually tune for the mods in the truck I have. I contacted the Hydra company and they said they would send me Tunes for my set up. So I'm going to redo them regardless.

if anybody has a couple of answers for my questions a few posts ago I would really appreciate it. Even if not a hundred percent sure just a little input would be great. I become a YouTube junkie and I'm looking at almost everything to do with our trucks and our engine. The specific questions answer so much more than trying to pull information online.

my intercooler had a pinhole in it and I'm a welder so I went ahead and use some MAPP gas and filled in a decent size hole. I really wish I would have taken a video for you guys. Very easy fix and maybe some other people could have learn from it. My air conditioning also wasn't working and because the intercooler was aftermarket one of the brackets for the air conditioner condenser was rubbing on the body and rub the whole through the inlet pipe. Pulled that off too and welded up that whole as well. With any luck I just need to vacate and recharge the system!!!

 

keeps RPMs to around 2200-3000 when hauling as this is where the power is and max air flow
I run mine up to 1200 with no IC on stock setting, up grades hauling 12k

Your tune might be making you run hot, try stock setting and haul a load up a steep hill

Make sure all your IC piping has no leaks and no leaks on exhaust
air compressor on intake set to 20 PSI will find them with a bottle of soapy water

leaf blower on tail pipe can help find the exhaust leaks