oil pressure activated sensor
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From: Texas
oil pressure activated sensor
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I am fairly new to the FTE forums as far as posting threads so please overlook my ignorance to the proper formalities.
I have a question that needs an answer. I have a 1983 E-350 econoline ford with a 460 engine. On the rear top side of the engine where the oil gage sensor is located the one single wire operates the oil pressure gage on the dash. On the same connector is a sensor that is oil pressure energised and has two wires going to I don't know where. They are red and green. Can you tell me what they are for? Also, does the intank fuel pumps have any relays that could be bad and keeping the pumps from operating when the ignition key is turn to the start position?
Thanks for any help on this.....
Mendi1
I am fairly new to the FTE forums as far as posting threads so please overlook my ignorance to the proper formalities.
I have a question that needs an answer. I have a 1983 E-350 econoline ford with a 460 engine. On the rear top side of the engine where the oil gage sensor is located the one single wire operates the oil pressure gage on the dash. On the same connector is a sensor that is oil pressure energised and has two wires going to I don't know where. They are red and green. Can you tell me what they are for? Also, does the intank fuel pumps have any relays that could be bad and keeping the pumps from operating when the ignition key is turn to the start position?
Thanks for any help on this.....
Mendi1
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From: Central NY
Hi Mendi1 and welcome to Ford Trucks!
I think, but not 100% positive, that the early 80's had both the prssure switch and the pressure sensor. One being for the idiot light and the other for an actual pressure guage.
Do you have dual tanks? Power would be routed thru the selctor switch if you do. Also you may or maynot have the inertial fuel shutoff switch, which would cut power to the fuel pump should you experience a strong impact. But like I said, I'm not positive you have this but I think you might.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
I think, but not 100% positive, that the early 80's had both the prssure switch and the pressure sensor. One being for the idiot light and the other for an actual pressure guage.
Do you have dual tanks? Power would be routed thru the selctor switch if you do. Also you may or maynot have the inertial fuel shutoff switch, which would cut power to the fuel pump should you experience a strong impact. But like I said, I'm not positive you have this but I think you might.
Cheers,
Popa Tim
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From: Texas
Oil pressure sensors
Papo Tim,
Thanks for your reply to my problems. I understand that the one wire from the oil sensor at the rear top of the engine block activates the oil gauge in the instrument panel but being as there is no indicator light in the panel it seems that this second sensor located in the same place on the engine block has to have some other function. Any other ideas? Also on the topic of the
in tank fuel pumps I definately know that the inertia fuel shutoff switch is not part of this problem. You stated that maybe the tank selector switch could have something to do with the fuel pumps not energizing when the ignition switch key is turned on to start the motor. I will check this out and post this information as to what it took to get the fuel pumps working as they should.
Thanks again, Mendi1
Thanks for your reply to my problems. I understand that the one wire from the oil sensor at the rear top of the engine block activates the oil gauge in the instrument panel but being as there is no indicator light in the panel it seems that this second sensor located in the same place on the engine block has to have some other function. Any other ideas? Also on the topic of the
in tank fuel pumps I definately know that the inertia fuel shutoff switch is not part of this problem. You stated that maybe the tank selector switch could have something to do with the fuel pumps not energizing when the ignition switch key is turned on to start the motor. I will check this out and post this information as to what it took to get the fuel pumps working as they should.
Thanks again, Mendi1
Last edited by MENDI1; Nov 11, 2004 at 11:11 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
I'm really not familiar with the system in your truck, but I have read that the carbureted trucks with electric fuel pumps use the oil pressure switch as a safety feature to kill the pumps in the event of motor shutoff (i.e. a wreck). It could be the problem for sure, so maybe check that out.
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From: South-East Tx.
fuel pump
I had almost the same problem and it was the relay for the pumps, I ran a jumper to the pumps and it started and ran fine, so I knew the punps were ok kept checking and it was the relay, a very cheap fix.
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From: Central NY
EPNCSU2006 - That definitely triggered something there, I think you're right on !!!
Popa Tim
When your memory goes.... forget it.
Popa Tim
When your memory goes.... forget it.
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by john griffin
I had almost the same problem and it was the relay for the pumps, I ran a jumper to the pumps and it started and ran fine, so I knew the punps were ok kept checking and it was the relay, a very cheap fix.
I did just what you did and got the same results. However, as noted in my original thread my problem is on a 1983 Class "C" Motor Home on a '83 E-350 econoline Ford with a 460 engine. I find under the hood on the drivers side down behind the battery attached to the body that there are two relays that look just alike. Question. Which one is for the intank fuel pumps? Also, is there any other way to check these relays to determine if they are actually defective? Thanks
Mendi1
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From: South-East Tx.
relay
I had three relays. I pulled one out and jumpered it, that one did not help so I went to the second one junpered it and it ran, so I brought that one to the parts store, bought that one, it ran, problem fixed.
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by john griffin
I had three relays. I pulled one out and jumpered it, that one did not help so I went to the second one junpered it and it ran, so I brought that one to the parts store, bought that one, it ran, problem fixed.
I'll try this by removing one of the two relays, jump it and test to see if the fuel pump starts when I turn the ignition key to start. If no success there
I'll ditto this action with the other relay. I would think that it is very unlikly that both of these relays are bad but it is possible. Anyway, this test should save me having to buy a relay and find out that the problem is still some place else. I'll try to keep everyone who is interested informed as to how my progress is going. New question. Any ideas as to what this second relay is for?
Mendi1