So, I pulled the engine out of my 76 4x2 to redo the gaskets and I decided to mount the proportioning valve on the inner fender (it was a prior non-power steering inline 6 truck) Anyways - I broke the brake line - the one from the MC to the proportioning valve (the one farthest from the firewall). I really do not want to have to make a line - I think it's a 3/16th's line but what about the ends? Anyone know the sizes? The parts store here has no guides, just a crapload of brake lines.

 

I just made some brake tube lines for my rear brakes. On my 73 f250. I got brass fittings from O'Reilly's. They took a 3/8 wrench and had 24 teeth-per-inch, and they were for a double flare. Yes, 3/16 tubing.

When you buy them you want to look for the "DF" on the package, along with the part number which I don't recall. There is a single flare fitting that looks identical. I guess the single-flare type won't hold the amount of pressure that is in a brake line.

I learned this stuff last week, my first project that involved making brake lines.

 

Well, I looked in the trash, and the package for the fittings says "Dorman 785-290D 3/16" tube nut--inverted flare."

 

For a custom setup - re-located prop valve - I think you will need to make the brake line.

Like a lot of things, not too hard if you know how and practice at least a little. I learned how working on classics by necessity. 3/16" line is available bulk from AutoZone and others. I bought a 20' roll. A double flare tool is also available from AZ and others. Some practice, reading and maybe youtube videos can help with the "how to".

Fittings needed are often available at the AP store or a good ACE hardware. Special fittings can be found at Inline tube (on line).

As alternative, your parts store probably sells tubes with factory ends in various lengths. Also adapters for the fittings. You may be able to find an option that fits - more or less - without flaring.

 

Guys - thanks. I tried the flaring thing and it didn't work too well Looks like the fittings are different - MC to line is a different size the prop valve to line.

 

3/8"-24 inverted flare nuts are the standard size for 3/16" diameter tubing. Ford also used 7/16"-24, 1/2"-20 and 9/16"-18 inverted flare nuts on 3/16" diameter tubing. Most parts stores do not carry these last three size fittings but they are available brand new through Classic Tube.

1. 7/16"-24 Classic Tube p/n ST8006.

2. 1/2"-20 p/n ST8007.

3. 9/16"-18 p/n ST8010.

They sell metric bubble flare fittings and spiral wrap to go over the lines too. With the correct (direct connection) fittings available, there's really no excuse to use line fitting adapters. Adapters don't give a professional look and they add connection points in the brake plumbing for a potential leak to occur.

This is a '65 F100 I added a brake booster to, along with a modern MC and an aftermarket brake valve. The metric 10mm x 1.0 bubble flare fitting and the 12mm x 1.0 bubble flare fitting on the MC came from Classic tube, as did the 7/16"-24 fittings, 1/2"-20 fitting, 9/16"-18 fitting and the spiral wrap that was used in plumbing the truck from the front to the rear.







Working with coiled tubing can be difficult in getting it straightened out. It's much more difficult to bend accurate lines if you don't have a straight section of tubing to start with. I made a straightener to straighten out coiled tubing.



Coiled tubing straightener build.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17574503&postcount=12

 

Steve, you gotta stop posting that pic with your lines, it makes me realize how bad my brake line job looks.....

 

My apologies, sir. LOL

However, I suppose it's a testament to the fact you don't have to have any formal instruction on how to fabricate lines to be able to make nice runs. All you have to do is get some tubing and start practicing bending/flaring. Shortly, you'll figure out what to do or what not to do. Tubing is cheap. --quality bending and flaring tools geatly helps too.

 

Much appreciated!!