Torque Wrench Questions
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: (home) Bozeman MT, School - Grand Forks, ND
Torque Wrench Questions
I am in the market for getting some torque wrenches and have a few questions:
Has anyone had good/bad expirience with sears craftsman torque wrenches - specifically the click type? I've decided to save some $$ by going with craftsman tools but maybe this is one area I should spend the extra and go with snap-on? (not to start snap on vs. craftsman wars or anything) just wondering if it can do the job, do it well, and be fairly dependable.
Also - As long as I'm not bashing the torque wrench and I'm using it as its intended, not dropping it, etc. How long can I expect it to stay accurate? This will be for home use so obviously it will probably be used on a weekly basis at best. Can I expect it to maintain accuracy for years without recalibrating considering this use?
Is it bad to use the torque wrench for values at the extremes of its scale? can I expect it to be accurate?
Sorry this turned out to be so long with so many questions - but any imput would be greatly appreciated!!
-Aaron Griffith
Has anyone had good/bad expirience with sears craftsman torque wrenches - specifically the click type? I've decided to save some $$ by going with craftsman tools but maybe this is one area I should spend the extra and go with snap-on? (not to start snap on vs. craftsman wars or anything) just wondering if it can do the job, do it well, and be fairly dependable.
Also - As long as I'm not bashing the torque wrench and I'm using it as its intended, not dropping it, etc. How long can I expect it to stay accurate? This will be for home use so obviously it will probably be used on a weekly basis at best. Can I expect it to maintain accuracy for years without recalibrating considering this use?
Is it bad to use the torque wrench for values at the extremes of its scale? can I expect it to be accurate?
Sorry this turned out to be so long with so many questions - but any imput would be greatly appreciated!!
-Aaron Griffith
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Torque Wrench Questions
Go to Harbor Freight and buy their $20 Clicker torque wrenches. According to a local metrology lab they are every bit as accurate as a Snap-on unit. You can always check them against a beam type torque wrench for accuracy. You can use them for 10 years then give them to a neighbor kid to use as a ratchet then buy a new one since it is cheaper than paying for a calibration. If you drop one just buy a new one etc.
http://www.harborfreight.com/
p.s. I saw the 1/2" drive on sale for $10 the other day... Buy two and keep one back to test the mainline unit you use for accuracy. They also have another excellent brand- SK hand tools for $90
http://www.harborfreight.com/
p.s. I saw the 1/2" drive on sale for $10 the other day... Buy two and keep one back to test the mainline unit you use for accuracy. They also have another excellent brand- SK hand tools for $90
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 7
From: Cloverdale, BC
Torque Wrench Questions
I absolutely will NOT buy a Snap On regular duty torque wrench, unless I get an inch pound one for cheap. They are in the $500.00 range. Can you afford $500 for something you may use a couple times a month?
I have 2 Gray Tools torque wrenches, and they have given me no problems for the last 3 years.
If I were you, I would get the Craftsman one, I think they have the lifetime warranty as well, and you can bring them back every couple years and tell Sears that it is out of calibration.
I have 2 Gray Tools torque wrenches, and they have given me no problems for the last 3 years.
If I were you, I would get the Craftsman one, I think they have the lifetime warranty as well, and you can bring them back every couple years and tell Sears that it is out of calibration.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,647
Likes: 352
From: Albuquerque
Torque Wrench Questions
I would not buy another Craftsman. They don't carry the lifetime garuntee and cost more to calibrate (if you can find someone to do it) then the original cost. Might somehow when 10# off and ruined some rod bolts/sizing.
Someone was touting the Husky unit a while back.
Someone was touting the Husky unit a while back.
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1
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From: Utah
Snap-on has a 3/8 Dr. electronic unit. It beeps and vibrates at set torque. It also tells you what you actully pulled on a LCD readout. It's to 100 ftlbs, or 1200 inlbs or in Nm equivalent. For about $300 bucks.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,647
Likes: 352
From: Albuquerque
I've seen one at Sears for less than that. Interesting. I wonder how accruate and durable it would be. In theory it's a good idea. It's a strain gauge and sends a signal to digital DVM.
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Senior User
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Fordman 65
I have a Craftsman 1/2 " "click" type torque wrench that I bought about 1980. It still is working as good as the day I purchased it. I also just purchases a 3/8 " Husky wrench about a year ago. I think it is just as good as the Craftsman.
To answer some of your other questions:
For "home use" you probably won't have to worry about calibration for a long time, provided you take good care of the wrench and don't abuse it.
The least accurate readings will be at the extreme ends of the scale, the most accurate readings will be in the middle third of the scale or range.
I was taught to "exercise" the wrench about 5 or six times before I torque anything fo real if the wrench has been sitting unused for awhile. This supposedly will give more accurate readings. I was also taught to never turn the adjusting ring beyond the highest or lowest reading on the scale as it may damage the internals, and to store the wrench set at the lowest setting. Don't know if any of this stuff really matters, but now I do it just out of habit.
Hope this helps,
PbFoot
I have a Craftsman 1/2 " "click" type torque wrench that I bought about 1980. It still is working as good as the day I purchased it. I also just purchases a 3/8 " Husky wrench about a year ago. I think it is just as good as the Craftsman.
To answer some of your other questions:
For "home use" you probably won't have to worry about calibration for a long time, provided you take good care of the wrench and don't abuse it.
The least accurate readings will be at the extreme ends of the scale, the most accurate readings will be in the middle third of the scale or range.
I was taught to "exercise" the wrench about 5 or six times before I torque anything fo real if the wrench has been sitting unused for awhile. This supposedly will give more accurate readings. I was also taught to never turn the adjusting ring beyond the highest or lowest reading on the scale as it may damage the internals, and to store the wrench set at the lowest setting. Don't know if any of this stuff really matters, but now I do it just out of habit.
Hope this helps,
PbFoot
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,146
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From: Colorado
Just a quick note form an old (25+ years experience) calibration weenie.
Do store your adjustable wrenches at their lowest setting. The springs will develop a memory.
For break action type wrenches, do flex them a few times each time you change the setting. This allows the internals to normalize. ALl others should be flexed a few times prior to use.
Most torque wrenches are spec'd at their full scale setting. Example, a wrench spec'd at +/- 5% full scale, with a max setting of 100 lb./ft. would be considered in calibration breaking at anywhere from 95 to 105 lb./ft. Now to get the perspective, that +/- 5 lb./ft. applies across the entire range. Suppose you then set your wrench to 50 lb./ft., that means it is considered good if it breaks anywhere from 45 to 55 lb./ft. That translates into a 10% uncertainty! The further you get away from the full scale rating, the higher the uncertainty becomes. Use your torque tools in the top 1/3 of their range and you'll be fine.
One other note, I have calibrated 1000's of torque wrenches and drivers; break type, dial, beam, and clutch. All it takes is one good drop and it can knock them out of calibration significantly.
Baby those tools!
Do store your adjustable wrenches at their lowest setting. The springs will develop a memory.
For break action type wrenches, do flex them a few times each time you change the setting. This allows the internals to normalize. ALl others should be flexed a few times prior to use.
Most torque wrenches are spec'd at their full scale setting. Example, a wrench spec'd at +/- 5% full scale, with a max setting of 100 lb./ft. would be considered in calibration breaking at anywhere from 95 to 105 lb./ft. Now to get the perspective, that +/- 5 lb./ft. applies across the entire range. Suppose you then set your wrench to 50 lb./ft., that means it is considered good if it breaks anywhere from 45 to 55 lb./ft. That translates into a 10% uncertainty! The further you get away from the full scale rating, the higher the uncertainty becomes. Use your torque tools in the top 1/3 of their range and you'll be fine.
One other note, I have calibrated 1000's of torque wrenches and drivers; break type, dial, beam, and clutch. All it takes is one good drop and it can knock them out of calibration significantly.
Baby those tools!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 233
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From: Silverthorne Colorado
I have an old beam-type that is over 30-years old. I've checked it with weights many times and it near 100% accurate.
The new 'clickers' and L.E.D's are cool and high tech looking but why add complication to such a simple device???
Good luck and be safe.
BobJonesSpecial
The new 'clickers' and L.E.D's are cool and high tech looking but why add complication to such a simple device???
Good luck and be safe.
BobJonesSpecial
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