So in my 1990 F250, the passenger window will almost literally drop it seems when I hit the power button and then when I try to roll it up it wont go unless I pull the window up while pressing the up button. Is it safe to say this is the motor? Anyone have any experience with this?

Thank you!

 

Well, it's either the window regulator, all the gears and such, or the motor. You'll be able to tell pretty quick once you take the door panel off and expose everything. The electric motors have these three plastic like gears inside. They dry up and then chew themselves up and then although the motor itself is fine, it won't raise or lower the window. It's a common issue and Dorman sells a set of the plastic gear thingies pretty cheap. There are threads on here detailing the steps. The motor is held on by large rivets. I used my dremel to remove them, you could use a drill too. You then just need some short bolts to reattach the motor. I found reinstallation easier by taking it apart and putting it back together with the window about half way down instead of trying it with the window all the way up. An extra set of hands every now and then to hold your beer and hold the window will make it less frustrating. I'd recommend some good tight fitting mechanics gloves too as there's lots of sharp edges and corners in there and my hands were pretty cut up on the first one I did. When I had to the other window a few months later, it went much easier the second time around.

 

Awesome, thanks so much for this info!!! I will search around for the rest, thank you!!

 

Not sure if the 92-96 is different than the 90 but when I take the window motors out of the 92-96 trucks, I first tape the window to the top of the door to keep it in place.
Then, if it hasn't been done already, there are three dimples in the inner door skin that need to be drilled out with (I think) a 1/2" drill bit.

You can then use a socket and driver to remove the three screws holding the window motor in place. You only want to take the motor off of the regulator. No need to do anything with the regulator.
Disconnect wiring and fish motor out of the door.
Once on the table, you can remove the thin round cover on the motor and you will probably have a bunch of shredded rubber inside.

Like said, Dorman makes the pieces to repair this and chances are that any auto part store has them on the shelf.

Another issue I have had when the window goes up good but drops quickly when powering down is that the glass becomes disconnected from the lower channel. I usually squirt a bunch of clear silicone caulk into the channel and insert glass, let cure for 12 hours or more and it should work for a good long while.

I wouldn't drill out any rivets unless absolutely necessary, but what I have described is 92-96.
I can only assume your 90 is very similar.

And try to save, as best as you can, the plastic attached to the door underneath the door panel.
I used to tape them back in place, but now, seeing how where I live gets like 50 inches of rain yearly, I seal the plastic back to door with silicone caulking so water doesn't find its way inside. Just taping it would sometimes allow water to come in from behind the plastic door panel.

 

Finding what has failed is usually easy, since it's usually either the gears or the motor (and then it's usually the brushes). Try rolling the window, does the motor sound alright? or does it sound "weak" and different from your working window?. If it sounds weak then the motor is the cause, if it sounds like the motor is strong but has no resistance working agains't it, it means the motor isn't linked to the window mechanism anymore (broken gears).

When you work on the window, fitting a thin piece of wood inside the door will do nicely holding the glass up, you just need one with the right length. If you search enough you will even find threads talking about replacing the broken plastic gears with nuts (you require an specific size which I don't remember).

 

McLeod and Encho, thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it, I will keep the post posted! Thanks

 

There are plenty of YouTube videos to show you how to do this job...

 

 

Don't defeat the clutch mechanism. The next weakest link will fail, maybe some kid's arm, dachshund's neck, or another part of the window mechanism. Let Ford do the engineering on safety equipment.

 

Really the same info but in video form... there's some bad info on here too posted by well meaning members.