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I've bolted on probably a half a dozen water pumps on various 7.3's (mine, neighbors, friends) purchased from Riffraff and none have ever leaked except the one I had to replace on my Excursion, but that was after I put close to 100k mile on it and it wore out from use, not from defect.
ELC in all the rigs because of course, you know I'm an ELC proponent.
I've bolted on probably a half a dozen water pumps on various 7.3's (mine, neighbors, friends) purchased from Riffraff and none have ever leaked except the one I had to replace on my Excursion, but that was after I put close to 100k mile on it and it wore out from use, not from defect.
ELC in all the rigs because of course, you know I'm an ELC proponent.
Stewart
Curious Stewart if you are running a coolant filter on yours? I think w/o the casting sand in the mix that a good OEM pump would do more than 100k miles using ELC coolant.....
Curious Stewart if you are running a coolant filter on yours? I think w/o the casting sand in the mix that a good OEM pump would do more than 100k miles using ELC coolant.....
I have a coolant filter on my Ex, but not on my old 2002 F250 that is still in the family (daughters). The factory water pump I replaced on the '02 is still going strong at over 100k but the Ex is on it's third pump (factory, then changed twice by me).
I'm not sold on the casting sand theory. I'm more of the mind it's silicate drop out from the SCA package added to the conventional green coolant. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8937207 Plus, there are other reasons that cause water pumps to fail too..
I have a coolant filter on my Ex, but not on my old 2002 F250 that is still in the family (daughters). The factory water pump I replaced on the '02 is still going strong at over 100k but the Ex is on it's third pump (factory, then changed twice by me).
I'm not sold on the casting sand theory. I'm more of the mind it's silicate drop out from the SCA package added to the conventional green coolant. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8937207 Plus, there are other reasons that cause water pumps to fail too..
Stewart
Thanks Stewart! I am going to order the new pump from Riffraff today and get busy on this.
I am with Stuart on the casting sand issue. I am not sure that they even use sand anymore as opposed to something more "user friendly" but they may have still used it ~15 years ago. That said I doubt that any could be left in the block after being hot tanked at the plant before machining. Tooling does not like a bunch of grit on the surfaces at all.
I'll tell ya my reason for installing a coolant filter. I first thought that it was unnecessary after you do a complete flush. But.. I flushed mine several times using Cascade dishwashing detergent (liquid) as it's a very good grease cutter and it doesn't make a lot of suds. After the Cascade flush I drained and refilled several times using hose water. I then flushed it with about 35 40 gallons of distilled water. Now I didn't have any oil issues in my coolant I just wanted to make sure it was clean as I was replacing any and every part of the cooling system and going back with ELC. So after a couple weeks of driving it, and a mtn trip towing my camper I was getting a bunch of crap and dirt built up in my degas bottle. What happens is after all of the flushing you still can't get all of the Cascade out and it continues to clean. So of course that's when I ordered a coolant filter system from Clay. And that's my two cents.
The THERMOSTAT seal that came with the billet housing on my rig is grooved and fits around the thermostat flange it self. I know not about the one you first mentioned but it must be a lot larger than the thermostat. Try Bob at Diesel O-Rings or even Napa.
The THERMOSTAT seal that came with the billet housing on my rig is grooved and fits around the thermostat flange it self. I know not about the one you first mentioned but it must be a lot larger than the thermostat. Try Bob at Diesel O-Rings or even Napa.
That sounds like the one Clay is describing.....I'll give Bob a shot....
A quick search using those part numbers shows this:
Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
UPDATE: I used Kris' part number and went to the local dealer to get the o ring. I ended up getting a thermostat gasket as well.
The Ford o ring for the lower pipe is not a round o ring. It is flat on the side up against the pipe, and chamferred on the outside top and bottom. After measuring the height at 0.111" and the width at 0.078" and the ID *I think* at 2.500" the closest item in the McMaster-Carr catalog is a dash 144 o ring. It's width is 0.103". I think after seeing the factory o ring, it is probably best to keep a spare one of them since it's about $6 at the dealer. The McMaster o ring would probably work, but I would use it in an emergency only.
Here is the two o rings, one for the lower pipe and one for the thermo.
And a closer shot showing a little of the shape...
To add to my above post, the past few OEM thermo's I've purchased have all had the gasket material incorporated with the thermo, all one piece and there was no separate o-ring or gasket in the box.
I bought a new 203* Tstat from Dieselsite a few months back, it didn't come with any type of gasket.....most I've seen done on videos use a seal that just sits on top of the stat after its installed....
I don't see the lower radiator hose in the pic from Diesel O-rings.
If you're meaning the lower hose inlet pipe seal it is included with the new pump. The main larger seal, the small seal for the heater hose pipe and the one for the lower radiator inlet hose pipe....