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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:28 AM
  #1  
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Another Water Pump Thread;

Getting ready to tear into another water pump replacement.
My original lasted to around 100k, I replaced it with an Airtex pump as well as flushed the entire cooling system and added the Dieselsite coolant filter kit and 203* Tstat.
I ended up with a leak at the top of the pump where it contacts the front cover-about an inch on the right side.
This was a couple of years later, so I replaced the pump again while making sure the contact area was absolutely hospital clean.
I'm not even sure what brand of pump I used the second time. Got the leak in the same place.
I have been running it like this for about 5 years I'm ashamed to say.
I had a shop look at possibly installing my Driven Diesel filter kit last week and also asked them is they could do the water pump as well explaining the leak.
They immediately said (without even looking at it) that the front cover was warped and needed to be replaced.
They said they would have to remove the CAB from the chassis to do this job and labor alone was $1800 give or take.....
I cannot understand why they said they needed to remove the cab and not pull the engine like most say....
This "warpage" is so slight if in fact that's what it is that often if I don't run the truck for a month or so it seals itself....
I'm running the Peak Global Final Charge coolant and have been since the first replacement water pump-I wonder if THAT is playing any role in my leak that was not present before?
I'm thinking of getting another pump-not because the pump itself is leaking but since I've got to remove the present pump to try & fix my leak.
I'm torn between the OEM pump that Clay sells or an actual Motorcraft pump-any suggestions?
I am also strongly considering using some form a gasket or gasket maker stuff around the very outside edge of the pump as well as the seal that comes with it.
Should I go back to standard coolant? if so what is correct for a LATE '99 7.3?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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Honestly Cab, id save the coolant and save the pump. Remove it, clean both the cover and pump, get a new oring and reinstall, using the gasket maker stuff around the ENTIRE pump...see if she leaks
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Supercab
....I'm torn between the OEM pump that Clay sells or an actual Motorcraft pump-any suggestions?....
Well, since you asked, my next project will to install a cast iron International water pump for the T444e. Bob at DieselSite sells the kits. You might consider that. There's a big thread on this forum about it.

I can't see how the coolant would have anything to do with the leak, unless the front cover is eaten up by cavitation. Even then, the leak would most likely be internal. I'd stick with the ELC of your choice as long as you're sure it a late '99.

As far as that business about pulling the cab, I guess they're stuck in a 6.4L thought process. Brian at BTS told me he has never pulled the cab on a 6.0 (or 7.3L) for anything. I don't believe I'd let those guys work on my truck if they think they can diagnose a water pump leak without even looking at it.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 11:15 AM
  #4  
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I had a reman MC pump leak like a seive back in November. Replaced with a new one from the irish store - reluctantly but I was in a pinch. Otherwise, I would have waited for one to be shipped from Clay. This one leaked a very little amount at the top where you describe for a few weeks - not enough to see a decline in volume in the degas tank. I read somewhere on here that the red ELC was just more noticeable to see what would be considered normal around the gasket. Now, I don't see any red residue anywhere. It must have sealed itself in the fluctuations of warm/cool down during normal operation. If you're going on 5 years with it this way, though, I would think if yours is going to self-seal it would have done so by now.

Are you confident it's not coming from the t-stat housing on the upper top right side? I ended up having to use RTV on mine to get a good seal after making sure the o-ring was oriented right - made that mistake once. If you do end up ordering from Clay, I'd recommend his billet t stat housing, too.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks guys! I just feel that with about 30k miles on my current pump that I should replace it while I have everything apart.

What is my best bet to use as a sealer around the pump? I know that the factory didn't use anything originally-did they?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Plankton
Well, since you asked, my next project will to install a cast iron International water pump for the T444e. Bob at DieselSite sells the kits. You might consider that. There's a big thread on this forum about it.

I can't see how the coolant would have anything to do with the leak, unless the front cover is eaten up by cavitation. Even then, the leak would most likely be internal. I'd stick with the ELC of your choice as long as you're sure it a late '99.

As far as that business about pulling the cab, I guess they're stuck in a 6.4L thought process. Brian at BTS told me he has never pulled the cab on a 6.0 (or 7.3L) for anything. I don't believe I'd let those guys work on my truck if they think they can diagnose a water pump leak without even looking at it.
I hear ya!! They are a newly bought place and were rated pretty good on Facebook, so I asked if they could remove the fuel tank on my CC Long bed Dually.....they said they could.....so I made a surprise visit on Friday and found them cleaning the shop because they "had a slow day" I think they are hurting for $$ and didn't get a real good vibe from them...…..
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 11:47 AM
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The Right Stuff....im on 190k with an Airtek👊
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 11:57 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by CousinCarl
I had a reman MC pump leak like a seive back in November. Replaced with a new one from the irish store - reluctantly but I was in a pinch. Otherwise, I would have waited for one to be shipped from Clay. This one leaked a very little amount at the top where you describe for a few weeks - not enough to see a decline in volume in the degas tank. I read somewhere on here that the red ELC was just more noticeable to see what would be considered normal around the gasket. Now, I don't see any red residue anywhere. It must have sealed itself in the fluctuations of warm/cool down during normal operation. If you're going on 5 years with it this way, though, I would think if yours is going to self-seal it would have done so by now.

Are you confident it's not coming from the t-stat housing on the upper top right side? I ended up having to use RTV on mine to get a good seal after making sure the o-ring was oriented right - made that mistake once. If you do end up ordering from Clay, I'd recommend his billet t stat housing, too.
I am 100& certain that its coming from where the pump contacts the front cover. I bought the billet TStat housing from Dieselsite when I bought the coolant filter kit and 203* TStat. even with that and everything hospital clean IT still leaked with just the O ring seal, I hated to but I used silicone all around it and its sealed fine.....
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 01:13 PM
  #9  
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Some time ago I went with an OEM water pump from Riffraff. I coated the oring with gasket maker then applied gasket maker to the area where the pump meets the front cover and haven't had any leaks at all.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
Some time ago I went with an OEM water pump from Riffraff. I coated the oring with gasket maker then applied gasket maker to the area where the pump meets the front cover and haven't had any leaks at all.
Thanks! So, tell me.....did the OEM pump you got from Riffraff in fact have "Motorcraft" and Ford part numbers on it?

I think that is the one I'm going to order.....
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 05:39 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Supercab
Thanks! So, tell me.....did the OEM pump you got from Riffraff in fact have "Motorcraft" and Ford part numbers on it?

I think that is the one I'm going to order.....
Well the website says OEM manufactured by Navistar.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 05:44 PM
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Also since I had mine apart doing a water pump I did a complete flush using Cascade dishwashing detergent, radiator, thermostat, all new hoses and an oil cooler rebuild and Riffraff coolant filter.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 10:00 PM
  #13  
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Im still a believer that a lasting waterpump and coolant system, is to have a bypass filter
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 05:30 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Im still a believer that a lasting waterpump and coolant system, is to have a bypass filter
Absolutely! Like everyone else my first one really filled up with casting sand, I change it now about every 2 years regardless of miles.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2018 | 07:16 AM
  #15  
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I bought the IH water pump from Diesel Site soon after I bought my truck. The pump is a very well built piece of cast iron.

You can get the pump and modify it yourself for much less.

It looks like Bob at Diesel O Rings is selling the kit now too, I would rather buy from him if I had to do it again.

The thermostat housing started leaking 1 year after the install. I removed it and put a thin film of gasket maker on the surfaces and it has been good for over 3 years now.

The IH pump is pricey, but has a nice built in filter and is well built.
 
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