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Does anyone have an idea on how to get the bottom/closest manifold bolt out? I broke 2 chrome sockets and an impact socket just spun the hex more.
I have been using PB Blaster on the bolts. This is the only one that is hung up.
Someone suggested using a torch. I am not sure where to put the heat though, no way to get to the back side of the bolt? I have an extractor bit I can try and get on there, however I am hesitant to try it. The bit is for a 1/4" impact driver. I am not sure it is up to the task of this one...
There isn't much to grip on the bolt. The impact socket rounded the bolt head off the last bit.
I have been trying to get the bolt extractor I have on the head but I can't get straight on with the bolt. I have tried with a universal joint on the extractor and I pinched the extractor in a large pair of vice grips. The vice grips gave me the most "solid' grip on the extractor where I could get some force on it, but when I tapped on the vice grips either the jaws slid or the extractor swiveled in the jaws and went ****-eyed on the bolt head.
For the extractor to work I have to get it to bite on to the head = drop down on the head and "thread" itself on. I can't get that far yet.
Then my concern is the amount of torque the extractor will take.
Once I get the extractor on (if I can) then I can torch the flange and base for a while. Once the heat is on I can get the extension and universal joint on to try putting some torque to it.
Are there any other ideas anyone has for getting a grip on the head?
If you can't get it to break loose you may end up having to break the head of the bolt off. Can you get a dremel in there? If you can cut a slit right down the middle then use a punch and a hammer to break the two halves off. With the head of the bolt off and your manifold off you may be able to get better penetration with your PC blaster and be able to spin it out.
I have a rotary tool, dremel knock-off. I don't think I can get the whole tool down there but I may be able to use the extension/remote hose deal (like a mini weed wacker cable) to get the bit there.
Another friend of mine suggested possibly the same - get the head off the bolt. What scares me is then I may be in the same world of hurt in not having much to grip the bolt with.
I can get heat (propane) to the flange and base now. Though the exposed threads of a stud with the flange removed may allow easier penetration with the PB blaster I am in the same boat of heat and not much to grab.
If I did break the head off - what would I use to torque the bare stud? If I could find a way to torque vice grips in a nose-down position I could possibly make something work. Though, my largest pairs of vice grips are not long enough - I need another 3-4 inches in length to have anything up top I can wrap a tool on. My large pair of channel locks are too short-nosed to grip both levers of the vice grips also. I may need a bigger pair of both - then a hose clamp tightened around the vice grips to ensure they don't pop open.
Another thought - one of the bolts is loose. I can pull that then tap the stuck one, and the flange, with an air chisel to see if that helps free it up. What I don't want to do, though, is put too much force on it to break the head off.
You're right there is a possibility that you would be in the same boat as you are in now but if you can get it off with the head on what other choice do you have? Also with the head of the bolt gone you wont have pressure on the threads which , in theory, should help loosen them up. You may end up having to remove other components to get better access to it.
I used a breaker bar to put the extractor bit on, 1/2" breaker with a 3/8" adapter to the bit. Then I articulated the bit down on the head so the bit was straight on. Then I supported the breaker bar as best I could and beat on it with a hammer at an angle several times and checked to see if the bit was seated all the way down on the head - it was. I pulled the breaker bar off and luckily the extractor bit had enough bite on the head it was locked on. I swapped it with an extension, universal joint, and an impact wrench. I feathered the impact wrench and got a bit harder of a hit than I wanted - the extractor came right off. However, the pipe was very loose. Come to find out that was all the bolt needed. I put the extension, universal joint, and extractor back down there and twisted the bolt out the rest of the way with my fingers. All that work for that easy of a twist out.
