When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Few months back, i was running errands. Pulled out of a parking lot and my brakes went out. Pedal went straight to the floor without resistance. Pumping didn't work. And the weren't any warning signs before it happened. I had changed the pads, maybe 3 or 4 months prior to this happening but I rarely use the truck. So I think I probably driven it a total of 12 to 18 times between changing the pads and the brakes failing. Guess I should say, front and rear brakes went out but parking brake worked well enough to stop me at low stres speeds.
After the tow home, I pulled the wheels and everything looked fine. Pads have meat, the rotors are good enough although I figured I'd have to replace them during the next brake job, the master cylinder resivoir is full, no brake fluid dripping or squirting from anywhere that I can see.
Pedal goes to floor without resistance and slowly returns to the "up" position with the engine running. With the engine off, there's a lot of resistance on the pedal.
Does the peddle go to the floor with the engine not running? If you have a full reservoir and no leaks I am leaning towards a master cylinder or vacuum booster issue.
sounds like when my booster went out. With the engine running, step on the brake pedal. Do you here an air sucking sound?
Check the hose that connects the engine to the booster and make sure it isn't broken or become disconnected.
With the engine off the pedal does go all the way to the floor but there is a lot of resistance.
With the engine on, there's a hissing sound. It's probably caused by suction but it's clearly hissing.
I'm guessing, since the front and rear went out at the same time, I should be looking at the booster and master. I'll pull those today (probably... it's suppose to be 97 degrees today so I might just stay inside) and report back.
Ok. My wife was home today so I had her sit in the truck while I was under the hood.
With the engine off, I had her press the brake pedal. The hissing sound came from the top of the reservoir. The reservoir also bubbled and almost overflowed. The cap was on the reservoir. Took the cap off and had her press again. Hissing sound was gone but the reservoir still bubbled up and almost overflowed.
Next I wanted to see if there was any brake fluid pressure at the caliper. I loosened the bleed valve and had her press the pedal. Oil flowef out but without much prrssure. Didn't squirt like when I'm bleeding brakes. Nor was its a constant flow. I'm guessing I'll need a master cylinder?
I finally got around to changing the master cylinder and reservoir. Still don't have any pressure at the brake pedal. Still can't find any leaks and the reservoir isn't losing any oil. I noticed the brake lines go into an electric pump thing. After some research, it seems my truck is equipped with abs, although, I'm sure it must have been disconnected at some point before i bought it because ive never felt the ABS engage. Anyway, is it possible that the pressure leak is somewhere in the EHCU and can it be bypassed? I have read its almost impossible for a DYI'er to bleed the system with this unit.
sounds like when my booster went out. With the engine running, step on the brake pedal. Do you here an air sucking sound?
Check the hose that connects the engine to the booster and make sure it isn't broken or become disconnected.
But if it was a booster he would still have breaks it would just be manual breaks wouldn't it cause there is still a physical connection to master cylinder form the pedal
With the engine off the pedal does go all the way to the floor but there is a lot of resistance.
With the engine on, there's a hissing sound. It's probably caused by suction but it's clearly hissing.
I'm guessing, since the front and rear went out at the same time, I should be looking at the booster and master. I'll pull those today (probably... it's suppose to be 97 degrees today so I might just stay inside) and report back.
MY REAR WHEEL ON DRIVERS SIDE IS STUCK. BUT ONLY IN REVERSE SPINS FINE WHEN IN AIR PADS, SLAVE CYLINDER, STAR ADJUSTER AND SPRINGS LOOK GOOD. AS SOON AS I DROP IIT ON THE GROUND LOCK UP. 3 TIMES
Ok. My wife was home today so I had her sit in the truck while I was under the hood.
With the engine off, I had her press the brake pedal. The hissing sound came from the top of the reservoir. The reservoir also bubbled and almost overflowed. The cap was on the reservoir. Took the cap off and had her press again. Hissing sound was gone but the reservoir still bubbled up and almost overflowed.
Next I wanted to see if there was any brake fluid pressure at the caliper. I loosened the bleed valve and had her press the pedal. Oil flowef out but without much prrssure. Didn't squirt like when I'm bleeding brakes. Nor was its a constant flow. I'm guessing I'll need a master cylinder?
What do you guys think?
I I have a 2000 Ranger also mine did the mine it was the rubber diaphragm in the top was not stealing and my lid expanded from too much heat and pressure so wasn't fitting correctly I just replace them both and it's been fine since
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.