Signal stat wire colour code
#1
Signal stat wire colour code
G'day mates,
I have a signal stat unit older than dirt attached to my 49 F2 steering column. The original harness only reaches the fire wall. PO's cleverly prolongated each wire with yellow wire to the signal lights and chances are high they did it all wrong anyway. The harness is black, grey, green and red. Which wire is originally supposed to go to which corner of the vehicle?
The red shop manual is not very informative on this one.
Thank you, Wil
I have a signal stat unit older than dirt attached to my 49 F2 steering column. The original harness only reaches the fire wall. PO's cleverly prolongated each wire with yellow wire to the signal lights and chances are high they did it all wrong anyway. The harness is black, grey, green and red. Which wire is originally supposed to go to which corner of the vehicle?
The red shop manual is not very informative on this one.
Thank you, Wil
#4
Wil, there's a couple things you can try, both of which I've done previously. If you have an ohm meter, you can test for continuity through the wires while working the switch to determine left, right, and pilot. That will also tell you if your switch is working and worth keeping. If you're brave, you could also take the cover off the switch and visibly trace the wiring that way. It will be readily apparent where they go and what function they perform if you can see the positions on the switch unit. There's a good chance that the red and green wires in Mark's diagram for the model 502 switch will be the same as yours.
#5
#6
Wayne, by common standards I consider myself brave:
This is what I do to vintage pocket- and wristwatches for more than 20 years now. In the end most of them even run as they should.
I'll take the switch apart and will clean the contacts and will see how it is connected. Before I put current on any part of the harness, I have to renew it anyway. Up to now, one sharp look is sufficient to make it desintegrate completely. Never seen such brittle wiring before. In the dark I could trace the wiring by smell, smoke and where it starts glowing.....
But this is a future project which came to my mind only as I am about to remove the front clip to have better access to the front axle assembly. And before I cut all the wiring, I better ask if it is connected correctly to begin with.
In general, old things were built to last and to be repaired. Thus, I try to keep as many parts as possible and this switch is no exception. Heck, I even will go through the radio with a couple of new resistors and capacitors, once the more relevant things are done. Good excuse to buy an oscilloscope
This is what I do to vintage pocket- and wristwatches for more than 20 years now. In the end most of them even run as they should.
I'll take the switch apart and will clean the contacts and will see how it is connected. Before I put current on any part of the harness, I have to renew it anyway. Up to now, one sharp look is sufficient to make it desintegrate completely. Never seen such brittle wiring before. In the dark I could trace the wiring by smell, smoke and where it starts glowing.....
But this is a future project which came to my mind only as I am about to remove the front clip to have better access to the front axle assembly. And before I cut all the wiring, I better ask if it is connected correctly to begin with.
In general, old things were built to last and to be repaired. Thus, I try to keep as many parts as possible and this switch is no exception. Heck, I even will go through the radio with a couple of new resistors and capacitors, once the more relevant things are done. Good excuse to buy an oscilloscope
#7
•Green - left front
•Red - right front
•White - left rear
•Black - right rear
•Yellow - flasher
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