Hello All,

I have a 2002 F150XL 6 cyl 4.2L which had the following codes PO775 (shift selenoid), p1747 (line pressure solenoid harness), po750 (shift solenoid) PO340 cam shaft position censor, po 443 evap emission, po1451 (control system canister vent), I used this truck to charge phones etc for about a year since i live off grid. would usually run it for 5-10 minutes and then leave things charging. had no issues until i was out driving and truck seems to stall sporadically, would not go when pushing gas pedal, kind of jumpy. made it home on that trip, then would just idle but not move (I continued to charge things with it). I am thinking that maybe it was not a good idea to charge things in the truck via ciggerette liter. ....So far I have replaced pcm and gave a real quick look over the wiring and nothing obvious jumps out like frayed wires etc. My problem now is that the anti-theft system won't allow enginge to start, will crank but not fully start. Is there a way to bypass the anti-theft system? I don't want to have to tow vehicle to repair shop/dealer.

also, any other general suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am thinking of replacing the PCM relay, and reinstalling the old PCM just to see what happens.

Best regards,

Jason

 

Man you have a bunch of problems going on there.

Those codes for the transmission would put it in limp mode. Especially the P1747 line pressure code which would limit engine torque and make it all but undrivable. It recognizes uncontrolled line pressure and limits engine torque to protect the transmission. Codes for both shift solenoids and the EPC solenoid make me wonder if the connector on the passenger side of the transmission is even connected.

If you replaced the PCM you need to sync it up with other modules and may need to reset the PATS system in the HEC. Get a cheap ELM327 connector and download the latest FORSCAN software - you will also need to get the 3 month extended license that lets you access PATS. Look up the procedure on the forscan site - you need 2 good keys for the programming. It's not rocket surgery.

The cam position sensor needs to be dealt with as well as the evap system. Again - are they connected properly? Did rodents eat the wiring?

 

Put the original PCM back in and address the codes. It's not the trouble.
You need to understand the PCM was good or it would not have detected all the codes from the sub systems.
Almost seems you have Rodent damage to a harness or some type of harness issue.
BTW it would be easier to get a small generator from Harbor Freight for the power you need and use a small ac to dc converter. or battery charger..
Total investment about $115 and save the truck and the gas it uses for other larger uses.
Good luck.

 

why did you change the PCM ? That was the biggest mistake.. As mentioned, put it back in and start over with the codes.

 

Check for a blown fuse F23 in the underhood fusebox.
No.
Probably completely unrelated.

 

There is no way to bypass it since that would defeat the purpose of the system in the first place. I suggest you reinstall the original ECM and drive it to the dealer or perhaps a locksmith. That way you'll avoid the cost of the tow.

 

Ok So I changed the # 23 fuse and the truck ran fine for about 3 months or so. Then the battery light came on and on a long trip died on highway. I was able to charge the battery and make it home (about 70 miles). I have since replaced battery and alternator.

Now truck starts and idles fine but when put in gear will not go. enginge revs but will not go. Not sure what to do next.

Any suggestions.

 

Your alternator died causing the battery to be depleted.

2 or 4 wheel drive?

Have you tried all of the shift lever positions or only the D[rive] position? Any transmission response in any of the positions?

 

The truck is 2 wheel drive. I don't think the truck does anything other than rev up engenine in any gear including reverse.

 

Then your transmission is likely broken. If you're lucky, it might be something as simple as the filter fell off the pickup tube. If you're not lucky....

 

The last time I drove it when the battery was failing....at slow speed the engine would sputter until getting up to speed and then would smoothe out. not sure if this helps with anything to diagnose or not.

 

No, it doesn't. It just means the battery wasn't supplying enough power to adequately run everything.

 

Did you check the tranny fluid level?

 

you had the transmission problem 6 months ago on the original post.. DId it just start working on its own or did you do something back then ?