Header question?
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
Sanderson. Theirs don't leak. I like their FC3-SEC. I helped install a set on a truck and we had no issues. No beating, bending, grinding. And they're in the future for my truck which is set up just like yours. '79, 400, T-18, 4wd
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,096
Likes: 5,756
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
No matter what you use Sanderson, Hooker, Hedman, Mad Dog...inside the frame rail exit always seem to come out right in front of the cross member. Better have a good exhaust shop on call.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...headers-2.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html Pics to show what I mean.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...headers-2.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html Pics to show what I mean.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 79
From: A dirty little town in OR
I was thinking about replacing mine while my engine is out just to avoid hassles in the future... they still work, but are, of course, rusty as hell.
The Sandersons are great and all but a bit pricey to do "just because", especially with the engine build expenses and the 390 conversion parts.
I like to pretend I'm playing 3 dimensional chess, but I'm really a broke-azz checkers player looking for a jump.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,096
Likes: 5,756
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I got a new set of Hedeman in a truck deal and put them on the red truck a long time ago. Rusty but trusty and easy to finish the rest of the exhaust. I like the fact I could do a # of different exhaust options. At the time I was running NO bed and stacks on the back of the cab. Now no stack and a flat bed in the future.
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Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
77&79F250, I'm kinda with you on the easy to finish part. Those Sanderson's and other shorty's are nice, but exhaust guys hate dealing with asymmetrical collectors. We do have a few good exhaust shops in the area, but it'd be nicer to do it myself. I'm going to install headers in the next couple of weeks and I'm leaning toward the Hooker 6902HKR, and their exhaust system. I'll probably only use the first two tubes, then run both tubes into a Magnaflow "2 in / 2" out muffler, turn outs before passenger rear tire. I'll weld in the O2 bung myself.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,096
Likes: 5,756
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I have lots of nightmare pics (and personal experience) of and with inside the frame rail exit headers causing all kinds of exhaust system issues because the dang crossmember. With fenderwell exit you simply attach and run it. Turn outs in front of the rear tire saves that over the axle $ bend.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
Yeah, I know it's much simpler but I'm not going to run fender well exit on this particular truck. I like my wheel well liners! And yep, I'm sure I'm gonna run into issues, but I like that the Hooker 6902HKR doesn't hang low. We'll see what happens. I will take it to a pipe bender wizard if I have to. Man, there was this guy in Columbia, SC back in '98 that put duals off factory exhaust manifolds on my '79 Bronco. Now he was a wizard! I watched him bend those over the axle tubes by eye. In two hours he had exit tubes on both sides and they were absolutely perfect. Wish he was around here.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
77&79F250, looks like I'm headed to the exhaust shop. I bought Hooker's pre-bent exhaust system that is supposedly matched to the headers I bought. But the bends won't work. I'm sending it back.
The headers are in nicely after a lot of work. I don't think I'll install long tube headers by myself again. I had to lift the engine as far as it'd go without unbolting from the bell housing. Wasn't paying attention and broke my fan shroud on a one day old Champion 4 row radiator. Dimwit! Still couldn't get passenger header in from underneath as instructions said. I did however get it in from above. They don't hang low, and there's plenty of room for exhaust shop to run both tubes above crossmember on passenger side.
The headers are in nicely after a lot of work. I don't think I'll install long tube headers by myself again. I had to lift the engine as far as it'd go without unbolting from the bell housing. Wasn't paying attention and broke my fan shroud on a one day old Champion 4 row radiator. Dimwit! Still couldn't get passenger header in from underneath as instructions said. I did however get it in from above. They don't hang low, and there's plenty of room for exhaust shop to run both tubes above crossmember on passenger side.
New User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
On my 79 i have headman fender well exit. Long tube inside the frame wont work with a manual because of clutch leaver. If you have the duel front shock set up the rear shock and mount has to be removed with the headman. My full exhast is headers 14" straight pipe thrush rattler mufflers and down turn 6 " past the cab. It has a mean sound a bit loud but i like to annoy people at the stop lights. Exhaust is at window level on most cars. i have had them on the truck for 3 years and have had no issues at all.
New User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Just going off the headman notes that state that the inside frame long tube headers will not work with manual transmission without modification i bought a set and they would not go on .On my truck the pivot arm for the T18 is right where the collector would be at on the drivers side. That is why i went with the fender well exit and i did have to remove the rear shock on the duel shock set up. other brands may very well work with the manual inside the frame . https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...9/make/ford/mo. For a 2wd truck headman only makes an inside the rail long tube for an automatic. The rear shock mount on the rear shock does have to be removed on the fender well application. Im glad that yours worked for you but unfortunately the inside the rails wouldst work for me on the headman brand.