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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 06:20 AM
  #1  
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351M Header Question

Hello all,

I'm gearing up to tackle an engine upgrade on my truck. Here's what I'm working with:

'77 F150 4x4 351M C6 9" rear, D44 front 3.50 gears.

The previous owner states he rebuild the engine some time ago. While doing so, he added a mild cam and 9:1 pistons. The engine runs pretty strong... MUCH stronger than my friends '78 with a bone stock 351M. So far, I've accumulated the following:

Holley Avenger 670cfm carb (I currently have the factory 2b carb and iron intake)
Edelbrock 2171 intake
Comp Cams XE262H cam kit w/springs, etc
Comp Cams 19045 roller rockers

Now, I'm down to headers. I definitely want coated. It looks like the Hooker 6902-4HKR will work but I wanted to confirm fitment and see if anyone here has this model. If so, how have they worked out? How has the coating lasted? I'd like to find some with a thicker flange but I've come up empty on the search. Anyway, here's the link to the Hooker's

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6902-4hkr

So, if anyone here has this model or has a better idea, I'd like to hear from you! Thanks guys.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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There are Mad Dog, Sanderson, Hedman, L&L to all consider. I used Hedman fenderwell exit on my 4x4 79 F250 351M 4 spd, cause they came with the truck NIB, easy to install and work great.

As far as "coatings" yes good call, can make for more cost, but least chance of rust.

My question is are they going to be inside or outside the frame exit? YES it matters cause all I have ever seen and experienced myself (78 F150 4x4 351M auto) with inside Hedman (already half way installed by PO) the frame rail exit is a big ol PITA.

To close to the front d/s, header flanges exit lines fall right with the trans cross member. PITA routing the rest of the exhaust sys. Inside the frame can "trap" the starter, and possible cause over heat issues of the starter, due to being so close. And then you might have to remove the header just to change a starter. Al ot of under hood heat can cause fuel boiling issues?

Better have a good/patient exhaust guy on standby...just some info for you. These pics are from fellow FTE members.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Thanks for the reply!

A picture is worth a thousand words. I now see why so many talk about clearance issues with headers. I looked at Maddog and L&L's websites. It looks like both companies only list models for 429/460 engines, no 351M. Am I missing something?

On the fender well exit style, would the pipes/mufflers run outside the frame rail to the rear or would the pipe cross back inside the frame rail at some point?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Can not confirm I have only heard about Mad Dog as a good alternate, but maybe just for FE stuff? Same for L&Lm but as far as 351/400? Have you checked Sanderson shorties yet?

With fenderwell exit, yes the complete exhaust can stay out side the frame, mufflers and pipe, if you do a turn out in front of the rear tires. Super easy and cheaper due to less work and material over the axle.

If you want true duels rear exit you have to cross back in and then over the axle. Also do you have the inside the frame front fuel tank? It matters in the routing of the reast of the system also.

Here are a fellow FTE members awesome job, and he used inside the frame shorties I do believe? And my blue beater with the exhaust and mufflers outside the frame with a in front of the rear tire exit. No headers at all! L&L fenderwell exits some day.....
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 11:50 AM
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I have a 77 with a 351m and c6. I found that Headmans fit best but any headers will need to be warped as they will be inch or closer to the tranny lines. I wraped mine with DEI wrap from Summit Racing. Easy to do and works great. Buck

I'm gearing up to tackle an engine upgrade on my truck. Here's what I'm working with:

'77 F150 4x4 351M C6 9" rear, D44 front 3.50 gears.

The previous owner states he rebuild the engine some time ago. While doing so, he added a mild cam and 9:1 pistons. The engine runs pretty strong... MUCH stronger than my friends '78 with a bone stock 351M. So far, I've accumulated the following:

Holley Avenger 670cfm carb (I currently have the factory 2b carb and iron intake)
Edelbrock 2171 intake
Comp Cams XE262H cam kit w/springs, etc
Comp Cams 19045 roller rockers

Now, I'm down to headers. I definitely want coated. It looks like the Hooker 6902-4HKR will work but I wanted to confirm fitment and see if anyone here has this model. If so, how have they worked out? How has the coating lasted? I'd like to find some with a thicker flange but I've come up empty on the search. Anyway, here's the link to the Hooker's

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6902-4hkr

So, if anyone here has this model or has a better idea, I'd like to hear from you! Thanks guys.[/QUOTE]
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bucknaked
I have a 77 with a 351m and c6. I found that Headmans fit best but any headers will need to be warped as they will be inch or closer to the tranny lines. I wraped mine with DEI wrap from Summit Racing. Easy to do and works great. Buck
Thanks for the reply. I'll have a look at the Headman's
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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I would definitely consider looking in to the fenderwell headers from headman. It's what I will be getting myself here in a couple months to do my exhaust. One word of caution though if you go with their coated version, they still rust from what a buddy of mine has told me. He has them on his 400 and has to swap them for a new set (warranty) about once every 1-2 years.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NW 150
I would definitely consider looking in to the fenderwell headers from headman. It's what I will be getting myself here in a couple months to do my exhaust. One word of caution though if you go with their coated version, they still rust from what a buddy of mine has told me. He has them on his 400 and has to swap them for a new set (warranty) about once every 1-2 years.
this happens all the time with the factory coated ones, id buy painted ones and have them powered coated by some one that knows what there doing.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bud Mud
this happens all the time with the factory coated ones, id buy painted ones and have them powered coated by some one that knows what there doing.
Yea he mentioned if I wanted to go with ceramic to just get the painted version and take them somewhere to get it done. I'm just going to buy the painted, sand them down and paint them with vht
 
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by NW 150
Yea he mentioned if I wanted to go with ceramic to just get the painted version and take them somewhere to get it done. I'm just going to buy the painted, sand them down and paint them with vht
heres a little trick to make the paint last longer and i dont know why but it does help. We take and heat the headers with a torch before painting them,not cherry red but just warm them first,even in the summer time.
 
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