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I'm sure you're fine, and probably happier with fender exits. I would be too except I couldn't go that way because I use this as a farm work truck mostly. I'd fill the engine compartment with mud if I had to open up my apron and get rid of the wheel well liners.
It was a chore getting those headers installed. But the driver's side was the easier one. I only had to drop the front drive shaft, and clutch pivot linkage. Easy to reinstall. The passenger side was the pain. Instructions said remove starter, slide headers in from underneath. I had to remove starter, raise engine, remove passenger motor mount, and couldn't get pipes in from underneath without removing motor mount tower. Before I removed the tower, I tried dropping headers in from above. It worked.
ranger140 glad to see you got them on. I did not have to "open up" the fenderwells or remove the liners, just had to cut a 2" wide 8" long strip off on the bottom on the metal part.
These pipes are attached to Hooker competition long tube headers 6902HKR. I bought a Hooker exhaust kit, 16561HKR. On first trial fit, I didn't think it would fit, but I cut about 2" out of the driver's side head pipe dog leg, welded it back together and it fits. You can see the weld. I do have to remove that head pipe and do some hammer work because it's rubbing the bottom of the transmission just a bit.
Boy that is close on the upstream side to the trans and crossmember....like REAL close. Like when your motor mounts flex and or you off road that truck are you going to be ok? Same for down stream like heat transfer to your xfer case...maybe a heat shield could be shimmied in there?
How did you get back over the drive shaft to run split side duels or did you do a duel exit on passenger side?
It looks tight in the pics but it's not. The only bad spot is the dog leg touching the bottom of the trans. I'll take care of that. And I'll put exhaust wrap on that section. I've tested it pretty thoroughly and haven't had any rubbing except that one spot.
The exhaust kit came with everything you need to get the driver's side pipe back to the driver's side. I mocked it up for giggles and it looks ok. But I'm not using any of the "over the axle" pipes. I hate the sound from inside the vehicle. Sounds like one loud 4 cylinder right behind me, and a quieter 4 cylinder farther back on the right. I ran both pipes into a single Magnaflow 2 in / 2 out muffler and will put two 90's just in front of the passenger rear tire. You can see the muffler in the first photo. The muffler sounds really good, but it's too loud for my liking. I'll replace it after some research.
I figured it'd go lean with such open exhaust, so I preemptively jetted up three sizes in the primary float bowl, changed from 30cc to 50cc accelerator pump, and put in .037" pump nozzle in the primary. I got it pretty close. It's cruising slightly rich, so I'll drop back one jet size and watch the AFR gauge.
Holy moly, my in cab temp has dropped dramatically. Normally my trans tunnel cover is hot. I even put heat shield on the underside of trans tunnel and the cover, and it didn't make much difference. Now the headers are evacuating all that heat. The tunnel cover feels no warmer than ambient.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
