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its a 77 f150 with a 302 motor and a np435 transmission(4 spd with granny low). From the day i bought this beast i noticed gearing was spaced awkwardly, cruising 40 mph means reving the **** out of 3rd or ******* around in 4th. Through experimenting i noticed running 93 octane got rid of this. 3rd gear was no longer all low end grunt but actually moved the truck along nicely without “over reving”... my question is, since im no longer running 87. Do i need to look into retarding my timing? Or since im noticeing a difference just leave it as it?... ive heard “non mechanics” say im crazy and ive heard one mechanically inclined individual say just run it on 93. If im noticing improvement then dont make changes... Thoughts?
Octane level doesn't change gear ratios. I know what you're thinking though.
93 octane fuel won't hurt. It will help avoid detonation. As far as timing goes, running higher octane fuel means you can advance the timing. I wouldn't advance it to more than 35 degrees total timing though. I don't pay any attention to idle timing. Timing at idle is just a rough, get it in the ballpark setting. If you're going to advance your timing to peak performance, pay attention to the engine as you time it, and as you road test it. Any pinging, or a backfire is bad. Retard the timing a bit if that happens. Don't trust that the mark on the harmonic balancer is dead on. There's an easy way to determine TDC on the harmonic balancer, using a piston stop in place of #1 spark plug. And I wouldn't trust that the fuel coming out of the pump that's marked "93 Octane" is really 93 octane. I run non-ethanol 87 and add Lucas octane boost.
The first thing to do is check your time at idle with and without vacuum and at about 3500rpm (short burst). Those three numbers are important to trouble shoot. If you engine is a tipical low compresson one it shouldn't need 93 octane. In some of these motors it's almost impossible to make them knock the compression is so low. Can you hear any?
The first thing to do is check your time at idle with and without vacuum and at about 3500rpm (short burst). Those three numbers are important to trouble shoot. If you engine is a tipical low compresson one it shouldn't need 93 octane. In some of these motors it's almost impossible to make them knock the compression is so low. Can you hear any?
every now and again it’ll have a slight tap under load. Havnt heard anything since going to 93... Im not sure how it would make the kind of difference im noticing. But this particular 302 has a gt40P head with a mild aftermarket cam. Idles impressively smooth no matter the octane.
Octane level doesn't change gear ratios. I know what you're thinking though.
93 octane fuel won't hurt. It will help avoid detonation. As far as timing goes, running higher octane fuel means you can advance the timing. I wouldn't advance it to more than 35 degrees total timing though. I don't pay any attention to idle timing. Timing at idle is just a rough, get it in the ballpark setting. If you're going to advance your timing to peak performance, pay attention to the engine as you time it, and as you road test it. Any pinging, or a backfire is bad. Retard the timing a bit if that happens. Don't trust that the mark on the harmonic balancer is dead on. There's an easy way to determine TDC on the harmonic balancer, using a piston stop in place of #1 spark plug. And I wouldn't trust that the fuel coming out of the pump that's marked "93 Octane" is really 93 octane. I run non-ethanol 87 and add Lucas octane boost.
I’ll just keep throwing premium in it if it not going to hurt. I just thought it was odd i was noticing a little more push from the motor at a higher RPM range than i was with regular octane. Then to hear how many of those i hang around tell me im insane to think i notice a difference.. i wanted some more opinions on the topic. Thanks
Generally speaking don't ever want retarded ignition advance or timing. By that I mean anything less than the factory curve. It will only run hot and waste the bejeesus out of a tank of juice with no benefit. Most people in fact find a lot of performance and fuel economy has been "left on the table" by the overly conservative OEM distributor curve. Make sure both the mechanical and vacuum advance is working properly.
Generally speaking don't ever want retarded ignition advance or timing. By that I mean anything less than the factory curve. It will only run hot and waste the bejeesus out of a tank of juice with no benefit. Most people in fact find a lot of performance and fuel economy has been "left on the table" by the overly conservative OEM distributor curve. Make sure both the mechanical and vacuum advance is working properly.
Id never take it upon myself to tamper with the timing. Im not there yet mechanically. But I certainly believe theirs alot of hp left on the table with these old watered down motors from the 70s... The original 400 my truck came with made a measly 158 hp from the factory. And if you were pumping out all 158(pedal to the floor) you got 6 MPG...
Live, yeah I hear different opinions on octane also. Most are total horse poop. "Oh, you'll blow that new car up!", "You're throwing money away!", "It's eating your fuel line!", "Only a racecar engine can handle it!".
Most folks now (and probably back in the day too) have no idea how a carburetor works. Yeah, you can run dog water in vehicles that are produced now. Electronic fuel injection is constantly keeping the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1. But the best carburetor can't keep your air fuel ratio just right during idle, cruise, acceleration, wide open throttle, etc. Sometimes it's gonna go lean, sometimes rich. Higher octane fuel can save you from detonation during those lean spikes. So running high octane fuel in your low compression ratio old bucket is not a bad idea. Same goes with high zinc motor oil to protect that outdated flat tappet camshaft. Our old trucks are so much fun, aren't they!?
Unless you have a high compression engine (flat top pistons, or shaved heads, possibly a turbocharger) you normally would gain little or no benefit from burning premium gas in your rig. The higher octane helps prevent premature detonation in the cylinders.
I run my old slick with a lot more ignition advance than stock. Y Blocks like it, and in stock configuration like mine they are low compression, they will tolerate low octane gasoline. But running close to the edge, you will notice it right away if you happen to get a bad tank of juice. The manufacturers ran conservatively for a few reasons, fuel quality (variabilty) was one, altitude another.
They didn't want warranty returns either, from enthusiasts grenading their engines. Crane Cams sez the OEM used weaker valve springs in domestic production for kind of the same reason, they act as a natural rev limiter so preventing uncommanded engine disassembly.
I typically run 4-6 degrees more than OEM specs call for on a stock motor. A lot of guys "tune by ear" but I would recommend using a timing light and vacuum gauge to dial your timing in correctly.
Live, yeah I hear different opinions on octane also. Most are total horse poop. "Oh, you'll blow that new car up!", "You're throwing money away!", "It's eating your fuel line!", "Only a racecar engine can handle it!".
Most folks now (and probably back in the day too) have no idea how a carburetor works. Yeah, you can run dog water in vehicles that are produced now. Electronic fuel injection is constantly keeping the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1. But the best carburetor can't keep your air fuel ratio just right during idle, cruise, acceleration, wide open throttle, etc. Sometimes it's gonna go lean, sometimes rich. Higher octane fuel can save you from detonation during those lean spikes. So running high octane fuel in your low compression ratio old bucket is not a bad idea. Same goes with high zinc motor oil to protect that outdated flat tappet camshaft. Our old trucks are so much fun, aren't they!?
i didnt realize a flat tappet was any different until you mentioned it... but what your saying about lean spikes and mild variations of A/F ratio with a carb makes sense. Then factor in the less than ideal quality fuel we are forced to use these days.
Unless you have a high compression engine (flat top pistons, or shaved heads, possibly a turbocharger) you normally would gain little or no benefit from burning premium gas in your rig. The higher octane helps prevent premature detonation in the cylinders.
This is what i hear most often. Often enough that im starting to think it has more to do with the quality of gasoline. newer computerized vehicles keep a constant A/F ratio regardles of the quality of fuel.
I run my old slick with a lot more ignition advance than stock. Y Blocks like it, and in stock configuration like mine they are low compression, they will tolerate low octane gasoline. But running close to the edge, you will notice it right away if you happen to get a bad tank of juice. The manufacturers ran conservatively for a few reasons, fuel quality (variabilty) was one, altitude another.
They didn't want warranty returns either, from enthusiasts grenading their engines. Crane Cams sez the OEM used weaker valve springs in domestic production for kind of the same reason, they act as a natural rev limiter so preventing uncommanded engine disassembly.
stuff always seems watered down from the factory... Their is certainly a possibility that the gentleman i bought it from advanced the timing a smidge when he built the motor. Thus explaining why i notice a difference.
I typically run 4-6 degrees more than OEM specs call for on a stock motor. A lot of guys "tune by ear" but I would recommend using a timing light and vacuum gauge to dial your timing in correctly.
i would absolutely use a timing light and gauge. Tuning by ear for me is asking for problems.. It seems just about everyone likes their timing advanced a bit on these old engines. Im going to look into learning a bit more about these beasts.... .. its nothing like plugging a K Pro under the dash and tuning with a laptop.
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