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I fear I will experience the same. I'll report back on Sunday when I get everything installed. Can you elaborate on how you doubled the wires?
I left the original wires in place and ran a heavier gauge wire to each wheel so I have two parallel systems. You could just replace the original wires with a much heavier gauge.
Gary
Well, I guess I should take comfort in that I'm not the only one!
I suspect my "fix" will be getting a new 5th wheel and then seeing how it brakes.
Thanks all ya all for your input; I'm not feeling like a complete idiot!
I've towed my roughly 8000 lb trailer a few times and noticed the following:
1 Brakes don't lock up when manual slider is used
2 I can play with the gain so that when I brake normally (with pedal, not slider) , I can tell that either the decel is less than without a trailer, about the same, or more (meaning the trailer is pulling on the truck)
I target for it to feel the same as without a trailer. The fact that I can make the decel feel greater than without a trailer leads me to believe that everything is working fine.
Well, I guess I should take comfort in that I'm not the only one!
I suspect my "fix" will be getting a new 5th wheel and then seeing how it brakes.
Thanks all ya all for your input; I'm not feeling like a complete idiot!
Hey Muddy1, I hate to keep harping on the discs, but I think they would fix your problem. Have you thought of adding them to your existing trailer? That would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new one (unless that's what you want, of course.) I am not experiencing any of the problems you guys are talking about. Both my trailers weigh around 4700# empty, both have 7k torsion axles and G rated tires. When empty I set the gain at 4 and when loaded we never go over 7. That applies to our 3500 HD also. When loaded those thing drag the truck to a stop like throwing a boat anchor out in a mud flat. I've only locked the tires up on one occasion when someone wedged himself in my line and slammed on brakes. Otherwise they are smooth and predictable. Good luck.
Hey Muddy1, I hate to keep harping on the discs, but I think they would fix your problem. Have you thought of adding them to your existing trailer? That would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new one (unless that's what you want, of course.) I am not experiencing any of the problems you guys are talking about. Both my trailers weigh around 4700# empty, both have 7k torsion axles and G rated tires. When empty I set the gain at 4 and when loaded we never go over 7. That applies to our 3500 HD also. When loaded those thing drag the truck to a stop like throwing a boat anchor out in a mud flat. I've only locked the tires up on one occasion when someone wedged himself in my line and slammed on brakes. Otherwise they are smooth and predictable. Good luck.
I have been told we are getting a new 5th wheel. The main reason for moving up to a F350 was to get a bigger 5th wheel. I will be researching the brakes for the new trailer. Thanks!
I have been told we are getting a new 5th wheel. The main reason for moving up to a F350 was to get a bigger 5th wheel. I will be researching the brakes for the new trailer. Thanks!
We tow a 14000 lb Reflection 337RLS with our F350. After a few months of suffering with poor braking I had Disc Brakes installed. Now brake action brake pedal force with and without the trailer attached is the same.its the best $2,000 I ever spent. I bought the complete kit from http://stopyourtrailer.com and had a local trailer shop do the installation for $600 labor.
We also always engage exhaust brake and tow mode when towing.
Its easy to forget that the trailers back there. No longer does it feel like the trailer is pushing the truck when you slow down and come to a stop. Unless you try to stop before accelerating to over 15 mph. The Ford OEM trailer brake controller will not engage trailer brakes when brake pedal is pressed unless you have exceeded 15 mph.
1) Did you setup the trailer correctly. One of the options is Electric vs Electric over hydraulic. Makes a big difference.
2) At slow speeds, it's very hard to lock up the brakes. It's designed that way. I've towed quite a few miles with my 2017, with more weight than you've got, and it stops beautifully. And that's with trailers that I can only get to skid the tires if I'm on a loose surface - like our stone/dirt driveway. I CAN NOT lock them on pavement.
3) Locking up the brakes is actually a bad thing. If you're set that aggressively, it's going to get interesting fast in a panic stop.
Thanks from an Aussie who has just purchased an F250 Tremor... i am currently have braking issues as well. The Brakes on the trailer will work in reverse, but not going forward...Can anyone provide advice on this...so far I have only tried driving on the gravel road, in the back yard.
The brakes on the trailer are electric over hydraulic
Cheers
Michael (new member)
Last edited by mrkaddatz; Aug 4, 2021 at 03:47 AM.
I have a 2019 F350 and tow a 7500 trailer. I always test the trailer brakes in the storage yard before I hit the highway. I use the brake controller to check the brakes as I accelerate to about 25 mpg. They slow me down without locking up.
Ford 7-Way connector
I have a 22 Superduty
Can anyone tell me the voltage, on a 20-24 Superduty between pins 2 and 3 with a. no brake applied, b. brake 1/2 way down, and c. 3 brake fully applied. I would appreciate it. Took my truck to Ford who said there isn't a relationship between the voltage and brake application between the two pins - and I think they're trying to blow smoke.
I know this is an older post but I was having the same issue with my brake controller on 3 different trailers. At the last oil change I had the service department look at it and said it checked out ok. They did something. I went from a high setting of 9.5 on the gain the medium 4 and the controller now works as it should. FWIW.
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