Howdy all,

I've been lurking here for awhile and appreciate all your posts and info; they have helped me out a bunch.

We took our new 2017 F350 on our first camping trip last week. Pulling a Durango 1500 weighing probably 9000 pounds. My last truck 2013 F-150 eco boost with tow package handled that trailer well and the trailer brakes locked up the 5th wheel brakes hard with the gain setting. My new F350 does not lock up the trailer brakes. I tried low, medium, high on the display panel and gain of 10 with the same result on all three settings. The trailer brakes work and slow the trailer down but does not lock up the brakes. I took the truck into the dealership and they said they could not find anything wrong. They suggested deleting the trailer info on the truck and retrying. I am not thrilled that the dealership could not find the problem with this potential safety issue. Thankfully I am only pulling 9000 pounds but we are planning on getting a heavier 5th wheel.

If you all have suggestions I would love to hear them!

Thanks!

 

So, a couple things, and please don't misunderstand my questions.
Are the brakes on the trailer in good condition? When was the last time they were inspected/serviced? The magnetic pucks and drums are not scored and groved are they? Are they getting the full current to operate? If they are scored or not getting the right current that can contribute to things not operating correctly. I had a trailer that I had the same issue with and found that replacing the brakes and drums as a package, and my pic-tail solved that problem. I also got a message on the dash to check trailer, so the truck was sensing something as well. These newer trucks are pretty smart and can help detect issues.
The trailer parts places carry "kits" that make this job really easy and somewhat less expensive than buying the individual parts.
With my last F250 the complete brake job would run about $900-$1000 bucks at the dealer (replacing pads and all 4 rotors), I could do both axles with complete brakes on that trailer for under $500 in my driveway.
So when I am towing I set the gain higher as I want the trailer doing more work as those brakes are cheaper to replace.
After I hook up I let the truck idle forward and used the trailer brake controller and test the trailer brakes stopping the truck. This also helps me check the hitch being locked and secured and I don't end up with a 5er sitting on my bed rails or unhooked on the hwy. I keep my foot on the brake and really watch the horseshoe claws when doing this. Sometimes when I squeeze the controller quickly I can get them to lock up but not always. I've never locked up my 5er brakes in the times I've had to stop quickly while on the road.
If your dash isn't showing any messages, then I'd pull your drums on the trailer and inspect them. Lastly when you set up the settings for that trailer did you chose the right brake settings?
Again, please don't take my comments wrong, sometimes it's the simple crap that bites my ***.
Hope this helps.

 

As pogeybait350 noted, check the trailer brakes. If the trailer sat over the winter they might need servicing.

One of the main issues with poor trailer brake performance is a bad or weak ground circuit. Use a digital VOM to check the impedance between the brake actuator and the truck. A high resistance ground will degrade brake performance.

 

I just bought a 2017 F350 a few weeks ago and experiencing the same drastic difference in engaging the trailer brakes...and I just traded in my 150 and was towing a couple days before with that truck so nothing has degraded/changed on the trailer...it was grabbing just fine.

I have the same question..is it that the 350 is just stopping the trailer without fulling engaging the trailer brakes? I've tried all the settings also. That said, I've towed about 300 miles since we got the F350 and never felt a push or pull ..

 

Not knocking anyone's setup, and I don't own a camper yet, but the first thing I will have done is replacing the electric/drum brakes with electric over hydraulic disc brakes. My original gooseneck trailer had the electric/drum setup and while they worked ok, they weren't exactly awe inspiring. My two new trailers have the elec/hyd discs (and torsion bar suspension) and the difference is night and day. We have over 100k on the PJ with absolutely 0 issues. Don't know if that's feasible for you but it may be worth looking into.

 

1) Did you setup the trailer correctly. One of the options is Electric vs Electric over hydraulic. Makes a big difference.
2) At slow speeds, it's very hard to lock up the brakes. It's designed that way. I've towed quite a few miles with my 2017, with more weight than you've got, and it stops beautifully. And that's with trailers that I can only get to skid the tires if I'm on a loose surface - like our stone/dirt driveway. I CAN NOT lock them on pavement.
3) Locking up the brakes is actually a bad thing. If you're set that aggressively, it's going to get interesting fast in a panic stop.

 

Thank you all for your comments and input. I really appreciate it!!

Just picked up my truck from dealership who ran all the tests on the trailer brake system. They suggested looking at the trailer. So on the way home I called my trailer dealership and talked with the owner. This dealership serviced my 5th wheel last year and he said they checked the brakes. He stated a couple of things: first, the new trucks don't brake like the old trucks do; computers, etc.. Second he suggested I manually adjust the trailer brakes. (plastic plug back side of wheel, screw driver, reverse. I'm sure there is a youtube video!). So I'm hoping that is the issue. Mainly a 5th wheel issue.

Bowtieconvert...sounds like a great set up. I'll look into it for my next 5th wheel.

Moderators, please feel free to move this over to the towing 5th wheel forum. Its probably a better fit.

Thanks!

 

Just a random question. Are the new brake controllers perhaps smart enough to do pulsing on the trailer brakes when it senses full stop from the truck?

edit: just found this, perhaps the answer? Trailer life article

 

Those are great setups, but I never could justify on a light trailer as I've never had a problem with the exception of a bad grease fitting blowing grease in the drum..in that case no brakes work. However, I just had my brakes adjusted before I put it away, so it' not drum brake fade. It is the fact I was pulling 3 weeks ago with the 150 and in the highest setting (10) you feel the brakes on the trailer kicking in. Fast forward a week later I was pulling the trailer with my new 350 and even on the highest setting, I don't feel the brakes kicking in. I'm not complaining since it is a 7200 # trailer unloaded, so i figured it won't put up much of a fight with a 1 ton truck anyhow...and yes, when i manually apply the brake its kicking in so not a wiring/harness issue.

The only thing bothering me at this point is when I have the trailer mode up in the center dash display, the brake power meter isn't moving either when I brake.

 

I never towed my trailer with an F150 but the brakes worked virtually identically on both my '07 F350 and my '17 F250. And I towed the identically loaded trailer one day with the F350 and the next with the F250. But I suppose the F150 might be more aggressive on the controller due to the lower capability?

My two trucks with the same trailer.

 

I think you probably nailed it.. my trailer unloaded is probably coming in at a whopping #7600 pounds (my hitch weighs at least 200). #7600 of trailer isn't going to make my 350 even breath hard...hence why I upgraded. My 150 with the ecoboost cranked that trailer all over the place but stopping you knew it was back there..plus driving out west was white knuckles from Des moines to Bozeman. I learned about wind resistance and sail. 2x.

Going from 460 to 925 torque has its benefits.oh yeah

 

This is very interesting. I was pulling my trailer with an expedition prior to getting the SD and you could feel the trailer braking. I can't feel it with the truck and last week I replaced the brakes and it made no difference. This weekend, I'm replacing the drums so I hope this will fix it. Now thinking about it, I should have hooked it up to the Expedition to see if there was a difference.

 

I had the exact same experience last year with my new truck. The brakes on my 2011 trailer had worked perfectly with my 2011 F350 but with the 2017 I could barely feel them working even when using the manual slider. Everything was set up correctly on the truck and the brakes were adjusted several times. In frustration I installed complete new brake assemblies on each wheels only to discover no improvement in braking. I then doubled up on the wires from the trailer plug to the brakes and finally could feel the brakes holding me back using the slider but I still cannot make them lock with everything set to max. The trailer braking issue has been my biggest disappointment with the new truck.
Gary

 

I fear I will experience the same. I'll report back on Sunday when I get everything installed. Can you elaborate on how you doubled the wires?

 

I too have the exact same experience. Moved to a 2018 F250 XLT 6.7 Supercrew from a F150. Used to tow the TT with the F150 and when setting the gain I could easily lock up the wheels in the TT with a relatively low setting.
On the F250, no dice. Max settings and it will slow the truck down if I manually activate the brake 100% but it is nowhere near locking the wheels.