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Questions about trailer brake controller

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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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Questions about trailer brake controller

I will be towing my trailer for the first time in a couple of weeks. 2 months ago I bought a 2010 F250XLT diesel, 4X4. I am towing a 27 ft Artic Fox pull trailer about 9,500 lbs with a equializer hitch. The trailer is about 2 years old. I was pulling this trailer with my 1994 Chevy 2500. While pulling the trailer I adjusted my controller so the trailer brakes would come on just before the truck brakes, so I felt a slight tug from the trailer. If I was on the freeway I would adjust the controller a little higher, if I was driving through a campsite I would adjust it a little lower. Since reading all of the posts on the controller I have come to these conclusions.
I will no longer feel the trailer tug when I apply the brakes.
The trailer brakes will not work under 25MPH.
I will not have to adjust the controller if I am on the freeway or in the campsites.
After I get my trailer hooked up I should set the gain to 6.0 and find a empty piece of road. Travel down the road at 30mph hit the manual control and see if the trailer will stop the truck. Then keep adjusting the gain up until the trailer brakes lock up. Then back off the gain until the trailer brakes will not lock up and that will be the correct setting.
My questions are how will you know if your trailer brakes are working every time you hook up if you do not feel that trailer tug? Also for those of you who have the gain adjusted to 10, is that because you are pulling a heavier trailer, or you just feel more comfortable there. At 10 will you wear the out the brakes on the trailer sooner?
I have 1,400 miles on my truck, about 400 freeway and 1,000 city. I get 11mpg in the city and 15mpg on the freeway, is this normal. Will the gas mileage improve as the motor breaks in? If I am only putting 5,000 miles a year on the truck, should I still change the oil at 5,000 miles? Thanks for your input.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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The trailer brakes will not work under 25MPH.


this was only on the '05's

my '08 works from 0-98mph

Yes, if your controller is set too high, you will wear your trailer brakes out faster, as they will be stopping truck and trailer...not only the trailer.

with a 9,200# trailer I have my TBC set at 7.5 which works seamlessly
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 01:02 AM
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Had the same issue with my 08 F350. Always had my trailer brakes set to "tug" like you said. Bought a new toy hauler fifth wheel- 15,000 loaded for camping, and could never feel the brakes on the trailer. Always have the gain set to 10, and never get smallest indication of trailer brakes. Didn't know about the not working below 30 mph, have to go back and read the book again. I found that no matter how fast I want to stop, only way to get trailer brake feel I like is to grab the manual slide lever and put them on myself. Asked dealer to check this out when I first towed with it- they said there was 12 volts at the plug so it was O.K. Soooo... my question is, if they don't work below 30 mph, how can you get 12 volts at the plug just by pushing on the pedal?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 01:22 AM
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They DO work below 25 mph on 06-10 pickups... the '05s were the only one with that mistake, and from what has been posted, the way to fix that is to replace the '05 module with a later one.

When the TowCommand TBC is working properly, you WILL NOT feel the trailer jerking the truck. That is a design flaw in every other brake controller. The iTBC is integrated into the truck, and knows EXACTLY how much you want to stop.

If you doubt that your controller works, go find a long empty flat stretch of road, and unplug your trailer... then try to stop.


That jerking that you seem to enjoy so much is simply extra wear on your trailer brakes.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 02:23 AM
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Reads your owners manual on setting the gain on your TBC. Follow that procedure and you won't have any issues.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 06:36 AM
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[quote=TexasRebel;8747160]They DO work below 25 mph on 06-10 pickups... the '05s were the only one with that mistake, and from what has been posted, the way to fix that is to replace the '05 module with a later one.

When the TowCommand TBC is working properly, you WILL NOT feel the trailer jerking the truck. That is a design flaw in every other brake controller. The iTBC is integrated into the truck, and knows EXACTLY how much you want to stop.

If you doubt that your controller works, go find a long empty flat stretch of road, and unplug your trailer... then try to stop.

Very much agree with TexasRebel, the Tow Command brakes work great. I will not have another truck without it. My fifth wheel weighs 14K loaded. I have had two trucks with Tow Command and two without (used Prodigy). Although the aftermarket systems will safely stop the trailer and truck, the TowCommand is seamless. They do work at slow speeds and I am sure you will enjoy having this system.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 06:47 AM
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I have never towed using a tow command as my 2002 F350 predates that controller. As others might be in the same situation, I would just add that the newer electronic controllers are seamless or near so in the combinations I have towed, so if seeking a better braking experience when towing, you may want to consider upgrading controllers in earlier model trucks. There really is no good reason to have the old herky jerky braking action when towing.

My two cents,

Steve
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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Here is the best way to set the TBC for me anyway:

Set gain on about 3, Flat straight surface, maybe a empty road or long parking lot. Get truck and trailer up to at least 25-30 mpg. try the TBC only. See how it applies the trailer brakes themselve. You want it set so it stops both truck/trailer but does not lock those wheels up.

Then try same run with both truck and trailer and see how it feels. I do this method for any trailer that I have not towed with before.

Works for me.

Right now I towed a 14K 5th wheel with it set on 3.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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I have only towed my new 5er once so far with this truck. I have the gain set to 6 now (I believe). I had it at 5 when I started, but didn't feel that it was working quite right. At 6 it now seems to be just about right. So while weight of the trailer is a factor, I think personal "feel" plays in as well.

And I really agree about the "jerking". In my '03 with the very simple controller, both my old TT and the new 5er had that jerk or bump when you hit the brakes. I didn't really like it, but had come to live with it as I couldn't make it go away without the brakes being set too light. However, I fully trust in the IBC. It is a great addition and is just as smooth as a baby's butt!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 11:15 AM
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Very good comments posted here, so I will keep mine brief. I tow a 26 ft 6200 lbs trailer, my 06 F250 has ITBC and I have it set at 7.0. Put 7000 miles on last year hauling around, no excessive wear on the trailer brakes. I always run with Tow/Haul on
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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One thing to note, that some drivers don't realize...

the manual slider is also proportional. I set my brakes to where it just locks up at 100% current draw.

Should an emergency situation come up where I put the brake pedal to the floor, the iTBC works with the ABS system to reduce the current to the magnets and prevent the wheels from locking, just like the truck's
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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"Also for those of you who have the gain adjusted to 10, is that because you are pulling a heavier trailer, or you just feel more comfortable there?"

This depends on the trailer and its relation to the weight. Say a small trailer rated to 3,000 lbs might need to be set at 10 to get it to stop it you are pulling the full 3,000 lbs on it. However, if you were using a big equipment trailer rated to 15k it might only need to be set at 1 for a 3,000 lbs load.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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With your trailer pluged in you can scroll through the menu on the dash (A trip od, B trip OD, MPG ect) with the trailer conected you'll find one for brake controler output it uses little blocks to show amount of output.
I to wish there was a way to get it to come on a smidge more quicker. I pull a 11.9k toy hauler with my 2010 f350 V10.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by asok
"Also for those of you who have the gain adjusted to 10, is that because you are pulling a heavier trailer, or you just feel more comfortable there?"

This depends on the trailer and its relation to the weight. Say a small trailer rated to 3,000 lbs might need to be set at 10 to get it to stop it you are pulling the full 3,000 lbs on it. However, if you were using a big equipment trailer rated to 15k it might only need to be set at 1 for a 3,000 lbs load.
It also depends on the trailer brake performance. One trailer may be fine at 6, while another maybe better at 4.

Also, I dial down the gain a little if the roads are wet.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 04:43 AM
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I have a 2002, I set the old style so I don't feel it and have had no problems. I do set it on the lower side. I learned this after having a car trailer try and pass me in a snow storm. I wasn't to concerned but the state trooper who decided to park his car in the hi-speed lane dove over the bank thinking I was going to hit him Missed the car by a foot!!!
 
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