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Brake controller not coming on soon enough!

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Old May 5, 2013 | 04:53 PM
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Brake controller not coming on soon enough!

I don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers.

Any ideas! Are they all like that?

I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 06:35 PM
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Do you feel like your not stopping soon enough? How heavy is your trailer.I have a 2011.I wouldnt say I feel the trailer brakes come on but I stop as I did with past vehicles.My trailer is 10k lbs.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 07:44 PM
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Trailer is about 15000 lbs. but when I slow down even at low speeds I do not feel trailer holding back. Three axles with brakes are more than plenty to work harder than the truck needs too. I have always had trailers do more of the stopping than the vehicle . I like the trailer to hold back a little so trailer is never pushing the truck at any time.

But sense I have had the ford factory installed brake controller I can not adjust the trailer brakes as I used to.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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My experience on a 10K lb tandem axle trailer is that the trailer will never come on harder than the truck to get the feeling you describe. I had a 2005 with the same brake controller. I think you need to do some tests. First, truck only do a 55-0 unloaded stop, then do the same with your trailer hooked up. the stopping distance should be the same, and the pedal feel should be the same.

The gain on these built-in controllers is variable, and are calibrated to make the trailer "invisible" to the driver(if that makes sense). Prior to my 2005 I had a F150 with a prodigy controller, and I know what you are talking about. Since then, I have never had any problems stopping, but it is just different.

dave
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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Mine works very well. It is an inertia type controller meaning that it judges the amount of power to based on the inertial measured by the controller. So if you brake hard with the truck it tells the trailer to brake hard and vice versa. You may want to crank it up and manually pull the brake activator on on the dash and make certain your trailer brakes are working well. It could also be set on the dash to hydraulic control instead of electric. I tried that on my truck just to see what it did and it was basically acting kind of the way you describe. You can check that in the trailer settings. Otherwise, it sounds like a trailer brake issue. Good luck...
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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Using the slide control, 3/4 is about what I've noticed too but I've not had a concern where I felt additional braking was needed.
My 20ft flatbed is almost 3,000 lbs empty and I run the gain at 3.5.
If I set to 4.0 (4.8v) when running empty, I can lock the tires if I apply too much service brake (or full slide control).
Even at 8,000 lbs, there is plenty of stopping power to the trailer at 6.5 to 7.0.
The only time I had to run 10 I was hauling a tractor on a borrowed "well used" car hauler.
Your trailer is new so I'm not sure what's going on there.
At 10 you should have 12v going to the brakes.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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I'm just saying I always was able to feel a slight tug from the trailer at a setting of no more than 6.5 or 7 on the adjustment. But at 10 on these new trucks I can not get it. If I had 10 on the after market controller it would all but lock up a loaded trailer just lightly applying the truck brakes.

I just don't like this factory set up and running at max settings.
I had brakes replaced on my 2011 at 42000 miles and they where telling me I'm getting my brakes to hot towing.

I argued about it to no avail. Never had this issue before on my other trucks.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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I will try to check the voltage on brakes. I know when I use the slide to manually apply the trailer brakes It will slap me up to the dash if not careful as it should. I have installed many of the after market controllers and all were very adjustable for setting them to come on just slightly more the to tow unit.

I have a 20 ft inclosed trailer and I can't get any better response with the factory controller.

Just wondering if there all like that.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:29 PM
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Did you check in settings to see if the controller is set to electric brakes?
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:33 PM
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Not sure what you mean. I maybe missing something here. Didn't know there was a setting to use electric brakes other than the gain setting.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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center display on the truck. scroll to settings and then go to the trailer settings. it's been a while since I was in there, but I know you can choose between electric and hydraulic brake controllers. Sorry... I'm on my phone...
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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By gosh I will check that in the morning when I leave. Thanks for the info. Will check it out for sure.
 
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Old May 5, 2013 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SavageNFS
Mine works very well. It is an inertia type controller meaning that it judges the amount of power to based on the inertial measured by the controller. So if you brake hard with the truck it tells the trailer to brake hard and vice versa.
I think you're confusing these for what's equipped in GM and Dodge trucks. See below:

Originally Posted by Trailer Life Magazine
As Ford was first to offer a factory-installed brake controller in the tow vehicle, let’s look at its system. Ford’s integrated controller electronically tracks hydraulic pressure inside the vehicle’s master cylinder and uses the pressure, along with vehicle speed, to modulate the amount of current produced for trailer brakes. Thus, the system accurately follows tow-vehicle braking with more at high pedal pressure, less at low, even to the point of using ABS. If the wheels of the tow vehicle are slipping, ABS goes into action for the tow vehicle as well as the trailer. The Ford system doesn’t give the trailer the same functions and characteristics of true ABS, but when the truck’s ABS is activated, the trailer-brake application is reduced to avoid wheel lockup, just as with true ABS. A dash monitor indicates the level of trailer braking, and a manual override is provided so the trailer brakes can be applied independently of tow-vehicle brakes. TBC-equipped Ford Super Duty trucks also enjoy an added element of safety; if the trailer is swaying, the TBC will actually apply the trailer brakes to help stabilize the trailer.

While the Ford brake control uses brake-pressure sensing, the GM and Dodge integrated controllers use inertia-type sensing to regulate trailer brake action. None of the systems can be retrofitted to earlier truck models, and aftermarket controllers still must be used for most other vehicles, so the demand for those aftermarket controllers remains quite large. Accordingly, it’s helpful to understand what’s out there, and how to make a good choice.
SOURCE.

Inertia has nothing to do with it. You can see this when you push your brake pedal to the floor at a stop. There is no rearward acceleration and thus nothing for an inertia sensor to sense, but your IBC will go to max with the brake pressure.

Originally Posted by MYTRUCKNOWRATTLES
I just don't like this factory set up and running at max settings.
I had brakes replaced on my 2011 at 42000 miles and they where telling me I'm getting my brakes to hot towing.
Brake pad life has little to do with how hot they get, but it is directly related to how much and how hard they are used. I agree about the IBC, I've had it on my '08 and '11 Super Duties as well as my new '13 F150. Unlike the aftermarket controllers there is no way to set this up to where the trailer brakes come on first. It definitely takes some getting used to, and for the majority of the time you'll be using the truck's brakes more than the trailers. This may be a good thing though, as most trailers use drum brakes which are slow to recover compared to the disc brakes on the truck.

Originally Posted by MYTRUCKNOWRATTLES
Not sure what you mean. I maybe missing something here. Didn't know there was a setting to use electric brakes other than the gain setting.
He's talking about the setting for electric and electric over hydraulic. It's a setting in the vehicle information screen on your dash, but I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with your concern. I've never had a trailer with electric over hydraulic brakes, so I've never tried it.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 06:33 AM
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My last truck was a Chevy, so you're right Tom.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MYTRUCKNOWRATTLES
Trailer is about 15000 lbs. but when I slow down even at low speeds I do not feel trailer holding back. Three axles with brakes are more than plenty to work harder than the truck needs too. I have always had trailers do more of the stopping than the vehicle . I like the trailer to hold back a little so trailer is never pushing the truck at any time.

But sense I have had the ford factory installed brake controller I can not adjust the trailer brakes as I used to.

Another thing different with your new truck is reduced gain to the trailer brakes at lower speeds. IIRC it is around a 20% reduction. The purpose is to reduce the "tugging" effect in stop and go traffic.

Another feature you have with the electronic controls is a hill hold feature. When on a hill and the brakes applied, at a stop light or similar, when you release the brakes the truck's brakes will stay applied for about 2 seconds so you can make the switch from brake pedal to throttle.
 
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