Ignition control module wiring help
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Northern VA
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Haha! Yeah, don't just throw away that old setup. Unless both the distributor and the ICM are fried, or literally melted, they're one of the best Ford setups you can use. Or sell...
Or give to jackietreehorn!
I too would like to see under the distributor cap to see what type of trigger mechanism it's running. Might be a Pertronix-type (or even a Pertronix Ignitor in the flesh) or something else. But curious what it is.
You're correct. A 2-wire distributor is going to be Red 12v positive, and Black negative side of the coil to trigger a spark.
And to stave off (hopefully) any future confusion about the wording, they're using the abbreviation HEI to stand for "high energy ignition" which was it's original terminology at the time that GM came out with their "HEI" ignitions. But those are a completely different beast, with their own trigger, single power wire, really huge cap and an integrated coil. So basically a stand-alone, 1-wire setup (2 wires if you connect a tachometer).
For the most part, over the years we've gotten away from calling the GM derived units HEI's and everything else anything but HEI. Just to avoid confusion.
Guess CRT is being their own company and bucking the trend and stirring the pot by calling theirs HEI. Can't say they're wrong, as it still stands for high energy ignition. Just kind of strange seeing the name used on anything but those big monster cap distributors.
In this case, your distributor grounds through it's body to the engine block. The Orange wire in your instructions would then be the Black wire from your distributor to the coil. And the Red wire is still the Red wire to the positive side of the coil and your new 12v power source.
Depending on what model truck you may have an unused power wire somewhere, or as said you can run your own.
Is this a 2wd or 4wd truck? Obviously the engine came from a 2wd truck or car, since it's got the front dipstick, and none of the 4wd's ever had a 460 anyway.
If a 4wd, watch your oil pan clearance unless you've changed to a 4wd rear sump pan.
Oh, and curious why you're changing out the style of ignition? Is it just to clean things up, or put in all new stuff for a new engine install? Or was something wrong with the old setup?
Thanks for the pics.
Paul
Or give to jackietreehorn!
I too would like to see under the distributor cap to see what type of trigger mechanism it's running. Might be a Pertronix-type (or even a Pertronix Ignitor in the flesh) or something else. But curious what it is.
You're correct. A 2-wire distributor is going to be Red 12v positive, and Black negative side of the coil to trigger a spark.
And to stave off (hopefully) any future confusion about the wording, they're using the abbreviation HEI to stand for "high energy ignition" which was it's original terminology at the time that GM came out with their "HEI" ignitions. But those are a completely different beast, with their own trigger, single power wire, really huge cap and an integrated coil. So basically a stand-alone, 1-wire setup (2 wires if you connect a tachometer).
For the most part, over the years we've gotten away from calling the GM derived units HEI's and everything else anything but HEI. Just to avoid confusion.
Guess CRT is being their own company and bucking the trend and stirring the pot by calling theirs HEI. Can't say they're wrong, as it still stands for high energy ignition. Just kind of strange seeing the name used on anything but those big monster cap distributors.
In this case, your distributor grounds through it's body to the engine block. The Orange wire in your instructions would then be the Black wire from your distributor to the coil. And the Red wire is still the Red wire to the positive side of the coil and your new 12v power source.
Depending on what model truck you may have an unused power wire somewhere, or as said you can run your own.
Is this a 2wd or 4wd truck? Obviously the engine came from a 2wd truck or car, since it's got the front dipstick, and none of the 4wd's ever had a 460 anyway.
If a 4wd, watch your oil pan clearance unless you've changed to a 4wd rear sump pan.
Oh, and curious why you're changing out the style of ignition? Is it just to clean things up, or put in all new stuff for a new engine install? Or was something wrong with the old setup?
Thanks for the pics.
Paul
Yes 4wd it's a 1979 f150 on a 77' F250 frame
changing because it was the same cost as a so called "tune up" parts so i went with all new.
There was nothing wrong with the old. I will be pulling as much off as possible. Sell to some one or trade
well here are the photos of the original instructions that came with kit.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
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From: San Jose, CA
Cool. Looks high-tech. Don't recognize the guts though, so maybe their own? Or a clone of another better known one from one of the old companies maybe? Crane? One or two others that I can't think of at the moment.
Paul
Paul
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
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From: Taxachusetts
Those instructions you posted up with the new pictures are pretty self explanatory. I don't forsee any problems for you.
Just out of curiosity - what "tune up" parts cost that much on the DSII?
Just out of curiosity - what "tune up" parts cost that much on the DSII?
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New User
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this kit.
and for a couple extra bucks I ordered new parts. Personal preference.
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So my only concerns are find g the hot/red 12vdc spot
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Let's see...there are a few ways to connect 12 VDC switched. But first, disconnect the existing power wire to the coil - it's the ballast resistor wire - fold it back on itself, tape it up and tuck it back in the harness..or out of the way.
Ok...12 VDC switched power ...you could use the wire that mates with the RED ICM two prong connection. That's HOT in RUN. Try to use a 12 gauge wire.
You could snip the ballast resistor wire at the ignition switch (make sure you cut the correct wire), tape it off and run a 12 gauge wire from there to the coil (+) which mates with the RED wire....just like in the instructions' picture.
You could find a three prong, yellow connector (one male, two female) under the driver's side dash that's HOT in RUN......takes an 0.018" bullet connector.
Or you could do something different on your own.
Ok...12 VDC switched power ...you could use the wire that mates with the RED ICM two prong connection. That's HOT in RUN. Try to use a 12 gauge wire.
You could snip the ballast resistor wire at the ignition switch (make sure you cut the correct wire), tape it off and run a 12 gauge wire from there to the coil (+) which mates with the RED wire....just like in the instructions' picture.
You could find a three prong, yellow connector (one male, two female) under the driver's side dash that's HOT in RUN......takes an 0.018" bullet connector.
Or you could do something different on your own.
New User
Joined: May 2018
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ignition
I was wondering if 1977 and 1975 ignition starter switch is the same and interchangeable
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