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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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the yern to learn

I have a 72 f100 that of course I bought used. The prior owners did a few modifications to the truck. They placed a 351W in place of what should be there. Let me just get to the point. I can do some simple minor work on the engine. I just become intimidated when it comes to the ignition. I don't even know what kind I have. If it is worth upgrading. Or if it is difficult to do. I know I do not have points. I have a cap and rotor. There is a vacuum advance in the foward position of the distributor. That is it. I have seen some that go to a "module". I have no idea why they do. Do I need this module. If I plan to upgrade what type do I look for and WHY?

Sorry i do know the engine came out of a 79 E-100. At least that is what the last owner said.

If I am too vague let me know. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Okay, you would have a cap and rotor regardless of what type of ignition you have. The original ignition in that truck would have been a breaker points type, but it sounds as if the PO used the Duraspark ignition that would have been stock on the '79 van. There should be an ignition module mounted somewhere under the hood, fairly close to the front. It should look like this:



You would probably have the Duraspark anti-crossfire distributor cap as well, with its wider spacing which would look like this:



(although early Duraspark systems used the standard cap)

Now, assuming that the Durspark is indeed what's in there, you have a couple of options (largely depending on your budget.)

I like the Durspark system, and it's easy to upgrade. The simplest (and cheapest!) upgrade is to simply replace the coil with a TFI coil off of a later model EFI Ford. Looks like this:



I read somewhere that this simple conversion makes the Duraspark system put out about 2-1/2 times hotter spark than stock.

You could also step up to the MSD Blaster coil or an Accel unit, for around 50-60 bucks.

The next step up would be to replace the stock Ford control module with an aftermarket unit such as an MSD, Mallory Hi-fire, Accel, Jacobs or whatever.

And then there's the all-out complete distributor replacement. There are some with optical pick-ups, magnetic pick-ups (like the Duraspark) and I think a couple of other triggering devices. You can also get a complete drop-in unit like the D.U.I. which is basically a GM HEI ignition on top of a Ford distributor. They're fully self-contained and have the coil built right into the cap, and there's only one wire to hook up. But the downside is the size, as they're somewhat bulky. In most cases it's not a problem but once in a while there may be a clearance issue.

And of course, don't forget to use good quality wires with a new high-output ignition.

Hope I've helped a little, although now you may have even more questions...if so, fire away!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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Smile

I have looked for the module and can not find it. Would it be hooked up to the dizzy?. I have a plain ole run o'the mill ditributor cap. I think the red one looks like the terminals are spread out a bit more. Is it possible to run it without the module. Is it possible to find one of those coils at a salvage yard? How would I hook up one of those? The wires to my coil had to be spread out like sparkplug wires to fit? I am sorry for all the questions. I just have to have some sort of an idea of what I am looking at.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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Are you sure you don't have points? How many wires go into the distributor? Is it just one going directly from the coil, or are there three of them with a big connector like the one in the pic of the module above? That connector would be between the distributor and the module

Another possibilty might be that you have a Pertronix unit or something similar installed in a points distributor that converts the points to a simple type of electronic ignition. If you have a digital camera, you could take some pics of the distributor, preferably with the cap off so we can see what you have.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 05:10 AM
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A points distributor with a Pertronix or other electronic unit installed will have 2 wires between it and the coil. As for the coil that TigerDan showed, those don't work on a points distributor or ones with a conversion unit like the Pertronix. They're for true electronic systems only.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 10:27 AM
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I have one black wire that goes from distrib. to the coil. then there is a red wire that goes from the coil to a rectangular plug that leads into the fire wall. I have not had the opportunity to see where it goes from there. Those are all the wires I have. I do have have a digi camera but my damn brother in law borrowed it a month ago. Might have to consider buying a new one .


Another silly question , what do points look like? Don't laugh. I kinda need to look right in the eyes of my son and other brother in law. So if I ask too much please understand. it is kinda humbling to realize there is so much I actually don't know. i am good though at giving the all important knod of agreement when discussing certain things.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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You've got points in there. Just pop the cap and rotor off and see for yourself what they look like. It's the electro-mechanical switch that opens by means of a nylon follower that the distributor cam bumps. There's also a cylindrical metal part in there too, that's the condenser. When you change one, you change both. The drawback to points is the cam wears the nylon follower and the gap changes, this changes the spark dwell. Points usually only are good for 6 months to a year of normal driving, depending on the quality of the set used. Accel used to make about the best sets out there. And not all are the same, there's different spring rates for them, this allows the distributor to function at higher than normal rpm ranges, but this comes with a price--- shortened points life. Best thing to do with points is convert to electronic like a Pertronix unit or any other conversion unit for points distributors. Set these once and they last for years.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 07:10 PM
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What he^ said...

Here's a distributor with a points (breaker) ignition. The little screwdriver (Or maybe it's a point file) in the guy's hand is resting on the points, also known as the breaker or contact set:



The round cylinder to the left is the condenser, the screw just above it is holding down the end of the points that's closest to the actual points themselves, that make and break the electrical connection that fires the coil.
 

Last edited by TigerDan; Mar 12, 2007 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Holy smokes, I guess I do have points. See what I mean, I know nothing about ignition. I guess I have to learn how to change and set them. I hope the book I got from the library has the how to section.

Would bad points cause your engine to run rough when you put it in gear. I drive fine I guess, but, at a light or stop sign it runs so freakin rough. Can you guys recomend a good upgrade that will not cost an arm amd a leg. Maybe even a location to purchase.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 09:06 PM
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i really like DUI distributors...they sopnser the site and we run them on all of out stock cars and they work flawlessly but they are out of the reach of most of us price wise... i updated my ignition from points to an HEI unit this week and so for so good..
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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The simplest way to go is probably the Pertronix unit, which goes right into your existing distributor to replace the points and condensor. I've never used one myself but most poeple who talk about them seem to like them, although a few don't. Cost? Around 70 bucks or so.

More labor-intensive but maybe cheaper if you can scrounge all used parts is the Duraspark conversion. I paid 75 bucks for distributor and everything off a 6-banger Ford van from the wrecking yard to convert our 300-6 powered forklift to Duraspark, but that was in part because my boss was footing the bill and also because I didn't have any 6-cylinder stuff in my stash. When I converted my F250 I used all parts that I had laying around so it didn't cost me anything. I didn't have a Duraspark FE distributor so I just converted the old points distributor.


And yes, dirty, pitted, worn or improperly gapped points will cause all sorts of problems. First thing I'd do is throw a new set on there, unless your prepared to go ahead and convert to something else right away.
 

Last edited by TigerDan; Mar 12, 2007 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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you can get a new HEI for near 75 bucks.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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thanks for all your help guys. I will think about what I will do in the next few days. Whatever the result, I will update. You guys have been awesome and I appreciate you guys not laughing. Well, at least I couldn't hear you guys laugh.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dgassett
thanks for all your help guys. I will think about what I will do in the next few days. Whatever the result, I will update. You guys have been awesome and I appreciate you guys not laughing. Well, at least I couldn't hear you guys laugh.
If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:

http://www.performancedistributors.c...stributors.htm

 
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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okay now here I go again. I decided to go with a new set of points for the challenge and cost. While looking for a set of new points and condenser I happened to notice that I can't find any for a 351W dizzy. Will it be a big problem if I use a set for a 302? I think that may be what is in there right now.
 
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