ground straps
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 110
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From: Memphis, TN
ground straps
When the motor was replaced on my 1978 F100, I doubt if any ground straps were reattached. I have read several postings in this forum as to the various ground strap locations.
But my question is whether or not a ground strap has to be of braided metal. Can a ground strap be simply a heavy gauge wire - either a solid wire or one made of strands?
Thanks for any info,
CB3
But my question is whether or not a ground strap has to be of braided metal. Can a ground strap be simply a heavy gauge wire - either a solid wire or one made of strands?
Thanks for any info,
CB3
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
I use braided as they work and are super cheap! Look here
https://m.delcity.net/store/Ground-Straps/p_818655.h_819219.r_IF1003?mkwid=&crid=26868832534 0&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28_XBRDhARIsAEk21Fh_ yKclCvMBl2GJq-cnbKUBzVIYCNO0YFcWTyWFYdkTc4ABgJOv2XUaAm54EALw_wcB
https://m.delcity.net/store/Ground-Straps/p_818655.h_819219.r_IF1003?mkwid=&crid=26868832534 0&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28_XBRDhARIsAEk21Fh_ yKclCvMBl2GJq-cnbKUBzVIYCNO0YFcWTyWFYdkTc4ABgJOv2XUaAm54EALw_wcB
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I would guess braided steel would be better, than solid copper? But I would think that solid should work? Back dvrs side of eng block intake to fire wall is one for sure. And it is steel braided.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
The flat woven braid type are excellent for something like a hood strap, it needs to flex often. Though they look silver in color they should be zinc coated copper, not steel as it would quickly rust.
Solid core electrical wire isn't used much (never?) in automotive apps, stranded wire (flat or round) has the flexibility and vibration resistance needed. 1/0 gauge wiring or better is maybe overkill, but the automakers always treated copper cable like it was a precious metal and used the smallest diameter and shortest length they thought would work. When new this is true but a few years exposure to pollution and road salt and the trouble begins.
On my slick for example Ford used really thin battery cables, one of them direct to firewall for the main ground connection. Another cable elsewhere on the firewall connected to the block. They saved a couple feet of cable. I ran a 2/0 cable directly to the block near the starter, by far the highest current draw.
Solid core electrical wire isn't used much (never?) in automotive apps, stranded wire (flat or round) has the flexibility and vibration resistance needed. 1/0 gauge wiring or better is maybe overkill, but the automakers always treated copper cable like it was a precious metal and used the smallest diameter and shortest length they thought would work. When new this is true but a few years exposure to pollution and road salt and the trouble begins.
On my slick for example Ford used really thin battery cables, one of them direct to firewall for the main ground connection. Another cable elsewhere on the firewall connected to the block. They saved a couple feet of cable. I ran a 2/0 cable directly to the block near the starter, by far the highest current draw.
Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: East Central Ia
Basically what I did,. If you buy replacement battery cable besides never fitting the large bolt on the engine block, it comes with that extra pigtail to accommodate GM. I just put a eyelet on it and ground to radiator support.
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Junior User
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From: Hixson, TN
77&79, am I correct in assuming the other cable on that setup goes down to bolt on the block?
I was replacing battery cables on my 74 F100 and found that I had a ground running from the neg post directly over to one of the bolts holding the Barrett tray down. The positive side of the battery was connected to the solenoid like I hope it’s supposed to be. All those looked reallatively new so not going to replace them. Cleaning to other random wires/cables I discovers another interesting one. Tucked into a recess beside the radiator I found a cable that had a battery connector on one end and it ran down to the bolt on the block behind the alternator.
Plan now ks to disconnect that original cable down to the block and run a new one. My question, should I get a dual wire like you have pictures and connect it also to the radiator support like you did? Would that be necessary?
Hope this makes sense
I was replacing battery cables on my 74 F100 and found that I had a ground running from the neg post directly over to one of the bolts holding the Barrett tray down. The positive side of the battery was connected to the solenoid like I hope it’s supposed to be. All those looked reallatively new so not going to replace them. Cleaning to other random wires/cables I discovers another interesting one. Tucked into a recess beside the radiator I found a cable that had a battery connector on one end and it ran down to the bolt on the block behind the alternator.
Plan now ks to disconnect that original cable down to the block and run a new one. My question, should I get a dual wire like you have pictures and connect it also to the radiator support like you did? Would that be necessary?
Hope this makes sense
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
The only braided grounding strap I recall is between the hood and the firewall near the right hood hinge.
I wouldn't be overly concerned what material is used.. a braided strap would clearly communicate that is a ground. Otherwise, even an 8- or 10-gauge wire, big eyelets and good clean contacts work just as well.
Here is what I recommend ensuring ya have:
I wouldn't be overly concerned what material is used.. a braided strap would clearly communicate that is a ground. Otherwise, even an 8- or 10-gauge wire, big eyelets and good clean contacts work just as well.
Here is what I recommend ensuring ya have:
- Battery to engine of course!
- Battery to frame
- Firewall to engine
- Hood to cab
- Cab to frame
- Bed to frame
- Core support to frame
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I never really understood this one. There's no light on the hood, so why does the hood need to be grounded? Not trying to argue, just noticing lol.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Yup, that's the reason the hood is grounded.
On the Pumpkin I've made the grounds from 8 ga. wire. I also made my own battery cables because, like 5851a said, the over the counter cables never fit the block connection.
One last thing, just to get really technical, the coating in the copper wire is usually tin not zinc. I deal with this stuff all the time. Quite often with the wire I deal with it will be silver coated but I know that won't be the case with our trucks.
On the Pumpkin I've made the grounds from 8 ga. wire. I also made my own battery cables because, like 5851a said, the over the counter cables never fit the block connection.
One last thing, just to get really technical, the coating in the copper wire is usually tin not zinc. I deal with this stuff all the time. Quite often with the wire I deal with it will be silver coated but I know that won't be the case with our trucks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
You're right, it's not zinc. Here's a really interesting (well to me anyway) article about automotive grounds, probably getting off into the weeds a bit, but there is actually a reason for tin coat over copper.
http://www.w8ji.com/battery_wiring.htm
"To avoid galvanic corrosion, we do not want two metals with significantly different electro-chemical rankings in contact in the presence of salt and moisture. Materials choice varies with the environment and application, and is far more than material resistivity alone!
Bare copper is generally a poor choice for a bolted ground connection point in a car.
Copper in direct pressure contact with steel will erode the steel, and form insulating oxide layers. We are much better off using proper stainless or galvanized fasteners, even though material resistivity is higher."
http://www.w8ji.com/battery_wiring.htm
"To avoid galvanic corrosion, we do not want two metals with significantly different electro-chemical rankings in contact in the presence of salt and moisture. Materials choice varies with the environment and application, and is far more than material resistivity alone!
Bare copper is generally a poor choice for a bolted ground connection point in a car.
Copper in direct pressure contact with steel will erode the steel, and form insulating oxide layers. We are much better off using proper stainless or galvanized fasteners, even though material resistivity is higher."