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Old May 11, 2018 | 07:59 PM
  #16  
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Hmmm. I think I'm going to go ahead and bolt the groundstrap to my hood, which has just been hanging off the cowl of my new cab. I figgered no under-hood light...
I've seen the flat-braided cable used as an engine to firewall ground, in Fox Mustangs. I think it gets called a "strap" because of its flat braided construction.
Originally Posted by Tedster9
Solid core electrical wire isn't used much (never?)
I got one: Coil wires inside electric motors, and maybe the alternator? Inside of light bulbs? Didn't some spark plug wires used to be solid-core?
 
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Old May 11, 2018 | 09:23 PM
  #17  
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There you go. Generator and alternator field windings, armature etc. Knew better than to say "never"! Yup, and solid core plug wires too. Also mechanical voltage regulators have wound coils, ignition coil secondary windings, both have a gazillion feet of fine magnet wire...
 
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Old May 12, 2018 | 04:32 PM
  #18  
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And at least the later trucks absolutely had under hood lights. Single wire, grounded to the hood.
I'm sure a lamp of that size could have found sufficient grounding current passing through the hinges, but a strap is certainly more reliable in that department. And you get the added benefit of the radio noise and other stuff.

Not sure if the lamp was ever standard, or just a part of some "convenience group" package, but they were available early on.
My basic no-option truck has one, but it is a '79 too, so obviously a later model.

Paul
 
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Old May 13, 2018 | 05:42 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by CB3
But my question is whether or not a ground strap has to be of braided metal. Can a ground strap be simply a heavy gauge wire - either a solid wire or one made of strands?
I've got vehicles with the braided straps or with the stranded (insulated) wire, which came from the factory that way. The wire has to be large enough to adequately carry the amperage needed by the starter motor if it's "on that path". The stranded wire is more flexible than solid wires and less likely to break after many vibration cycles. Either one should work if sized according to its task.
 
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Old May 13, 2018 | 06:22 AM
  #20  
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I will add to protect ground connection points. Clean the metal first then apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the surface before bolting down the ground. This prevents corrosion later on.
 
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Old May 13, 2018 | 02:22 PM
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True. I typically grind it clean, attach the grounds, then paint over the whole thing with like-colored paint. Has worked well for me.
To my tastes, it's less messy than my beloved anti-seize (which I use on practically everything these days!) and I was never sure about it's conductive properties.

Glad you brought that up though. If you're making up stuff for the long haul, you've got to think of things like that. Otherwise you're just cleaning and maintaining stuff more often than you should have to.
The simple "screw it to painted metal" concept worked fine for the factory originally because the exposed metal in the threaded holes was a good conductor at that point. But 40-50 years later, not so much!

Paul
 
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