Turbo boost sensor location?
#1
#2
There's not just one sensor, and unless you have a Scanguage/AE that reads all three of them, you're going to be left guessing as to which one is reading incorrectly.
First, the MAP sensor connects to a hose on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It's small, and runs to the passenger side into the mess of HVAC stuff (don't get confused by the deareation line from the EGR cooler that runs to the degas bottle). Then there's the EBP sensor, which is somewhere around the FICM on the driver's valve cover, it's on the end of a metal tube that runs up from the front of the driver's exhaust manifold. The BARO sensor is in the cab, IIRC it's around the e-brake pedal. All three sensors should be within .5psi of each other with the key-on/engine-off (KOEO). The truck derives boost by comparing MAP and BARO (or a constant for baro depending on the gauge), and EBP figures in to how the turbo is controlled. "Boost" as calculated from these sensors should not exceed 28psi on a stock engine, anything over that makes engine damage significantly more likely.
If you can't compare the readings of the sensors, then check the MAP hose and EPB tube for leaks. Then pull those, the turbo, and the EGR valve and clean them/ R&R any damage.
The bad news is that this code normally means that either the turbo is trashed or more likely that the unison ring is rusted causing the vanes to stick. Sometimes you can pull the turbo and clean it or rebuild it, sometimes it has to be replaced. Either way, you need to take care of it soon because if it's overboosting then you have a better chance of blowing the headgaskets. That repairs runs about $5k, so $1k for the turbo looks a lot better.
First, the MAP sensor connects to a hose on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It's small, and runs to the passenger side into the mess of HVAC stuff (don't get confused by the deareation line from the EGR cooler that runs to the degas bottle). Then there's the EBP sensor, which is somewhere around the FICM on the driver's valve cover, it's on the end of a metal tube that runs up from the front of the driver's exhaust manifold. The BARO sensor is in the cab, IIRC it's around the e-brake pedal. All three sensors should be within .5psi of each other with the key-on/engine-off (KOEO). The truck derives boost by comparing MAP and BARO (or a constant for baro depending on the gauge), and EBP figures in to how the turbo is controlled. "Boost" as calculated from these sensors should not exceed 28psi on a stock engine, anything over that makes engine damage significantly more likely.
If you can't compare the readings of the sensors, then check the MAP hose and EPB tube for leaks. Then pull those, the turbo, and the EGR valve and clean them/ R&R any damage.
The bad news is that this code normally means that either the turbo is trashed or more likely that the unison ring is rusted causing the vanes to stick. Sometimes you can pull the turbo and clean it or rebuild it, sometimes it has to be replaced. Either way, you need to take care of it soon because if it's overboosting then you have a better chance of blowing the headgaskets. That repairs runs about $5k, so $1k for the turbo looks a lot better.
#3
#4
There wouldn't definitely be a noise, the only way to know is to read a boost gauge. The best way is a mechanical boost gauge tapped into the intake elbow, but any digital gauge box would be better than relying on the dash gauge to pick up overboost.
http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Auto.../dp/B000AAMY86
If the code is coming out when you first start the truck, it might be the VGT is trying to sweep the vanes and they're sticking. You need to figure out if it's overboosting, if it is you need it fixed now. A $5k headgasket repair won't be fun for want of a $1k turbo, or maybe even a $100 cleaning.
http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Auto.../dp/B000AAMY86
If the code is coming out when you first start the truck, it might be the VGT is trying to sweep the vanes and they're sticking. You need to figure out if it's overboosting, if it is you need it fixed now. A $5k headgasket repair won't be fun for want of a $1k turbo, or maybe even a $100 cleaning.
#5
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